Yotes?

[SilkWWU]

This may sound like a stupid question, but killing Coyotes, do you skin them and keep the skin?  Or is it more of a hunters responsibility for pest control? Shoot & Shovel?

[Gutpile]

You can sell them. There's a few guys who still buy. A lot of guys leave them lay though. The buyer I use won't even touch them if they have even just the start of mange. He doesn't require I skin them but you'll get a better price if you skin & stretch them. I guess it's your call. I talked to WDFW employee who said it is illegal to leave them lay she was office staff then I talked to a game warden who said it's up to the warden you deal with. He was vague but said he wouldn't write you up on it.

[Bscman]

There isn't anyone "local" to me to sell pelts to, and I don't take enough 'yotes each year to justify holding them and selling off at the end of the year.

Enough said?
 

[jeff100]

I'm planning on some serious yote control to benefit my upland bird habitat.  I'd like to skin and care for the pelts.  I'd also like to do everything myself.  What's the best recommended way to care for the pelts so that you get a high quality hide when you're done??

[tlbradford]

Hunting and Skinning for Profit by Blaine Eddy is a good DVD.

Predator Masters had an article on putting up your fur that was really informative.

http://www.predatormastersforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=52101991&an=0&page=0#52101991

[billythekidrock]

Here is another good thread with pictures on skinning yotes.
http://midwestpredator.groupee.net/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3371088811/m/4731021852

[GEARHEAD]

CROWS GOTTA EAT!

[MichaelJ]

Any idea on where to get the tail stripper/zipper?  I've never successfully skinned a tail off a yote, lol the skin always rips but that's with a knife and myself not being to careful!

Michael

[Krusty]

Jeff,

I sell some very nice cedar adjustable stretchers.

The Fur Harvesters Auction inc. has some great information on fur handling, I believe much of it is downloadable.

I keep a copy of their "Pelt Handling for Profit" on my skinning bench.

Michael J,

You probably already own the best tail stripper and skinning aid, I know of, a regular pair of pliers.

Here's what I do.

Once the hips are skinned and the base of the tail exposed, I take the pliers, set to the wide setting (on a raccoon or larger critter), then I clamp the pliers around the base of the tail, so the open part with the big teeth is around the tail bone.
Next I grip the "head" of the pliers, with the tail bone between my middle and ring fingers of one hand, and the base of the tail in the other and tug straight apart... pop you got a tail.

A "Wyoming" type gut knife will "zip" tails, but so will a decent skinner with a slight drop point (set on it's spine and pushed along).

Krusty

[rainshadow1]

Krusty, do you have a pic of your stretchers? I might want to buy one or two off you.

[Krusty]

Rainshadow,

Here ya go;



From left to right: Double adjustable super 'coon, and width adjustable in, lg fox, sm fox, and the 'cat/coyote.

I need a short bit of lead time, for delivery, because I only make them to order.

Krusty

[DeKuma]

I do not get it.  Can you show or explain how those work?
If I ever start getting coyotes, I may need one............

[tlbradford]

Insert the stretcher inside your pelt.  Adjust the width of the stretcher to pull the pelt tight.

[DeKuma]

So it adjusts in width.  We are talking about basicaly tubing the pelt right?  Also, is it inside out when you put it on there?  Can you use this to flesh the pelt too?

Sorry for the novice questions, but I have read everything I can find on the net and still get confused at all of this.

[tlbradford]

His super coon double adjustable stretcher has a length adjustment.  Down at the bottom you can see the slotted board.  You would pull the pelt down as much as possible and pin it to that bottom piece of wood.  You start with the case inside out on the board.  Let it dry a little, remove and flesh it out.  I would not flesh on an adjustable board because of the risk of cutting through the fur where you do not have solid backing.  After fleshing put it back on the stretcher for a while.  Take it off before it gets to hard, turn it rightside out, and then put it back on the stretcher to finish out.

[Krusty]

TLB,

Only the super 'coon size is "double adjustable"... all the others only have width adjustment.

Think about the shape of a raccoon, he's pointed at both ends and fat around the middle.
Because of this, when you pull the width on a big one, you are often left with a "sag" in the back, where the "hump" was.
To save multiple steps (pinning the hips and tail, then spreading, then unpinning and re-pulling the tail to be pinned longer), one can pin the hips and tail, set the width then pull the back flat with the tail adjuster (being careful not to yank the tail off).

Since a coyote is already "flat" on top, we don't need to pull their tails, to flatten the back.
And the tail boards, on foxes often aren't used at all, but I figured some smaller coyotes, and most mid-sized 'coons, would fit the fox boards, so I've included them.

Krusty

[rainshadow1]

How much for the big one, Krusty? I can get a dozen wire stretchers for something like $70 but I don't need a dozen! I have the freezer space to do one at a time!

[Krusty]

Rainshadow,

Wire sucks, you couldn't give me $70 to take a dozen, and try and use 'em (on 'cats or coyotes).

And I'd lose that $70 real fast, by having my pelts worth less, because they were put up on wire.

I'm hoping to get $25 each, for the 'cat/coyote, same for the double adj. super 'coon, and $20 apiece for the fox.
This is only a few dollars more that Grawes sells the most popular basswood stretchers, of similar size.
But these cedar boards, I believe, are a far superior product.

Buy a half dozen (of anything, mink or bigger), and I'll cover shipping/delivery, in Washington.

Krusty

[rainshadow1]

PM sent Krusty.

[AWS]

you might want to take a look at this sight.

http://www.furharvesters.com/PDF/pelthandling.pdf

AWS

When using solid boards be sure to use a belly board, a piece of 1/2" dowel slid up betweent the belly and the strecher.  After the hide dries it shrinks on the board, when the belly board is pulled out it gives just enough slack to slip the hide off the strecher.  Solid boards will let you pin your coyotes with a very uniform look.  If your sending your furs to auction solid I feel is the way to go.  Buyers really like uniform lots.  Cedar or Basswood are nice and soft easy to pin, pine will work but can bleed pitch and hard wood can discolour fur.

[MichaelJ]

Michael J,

You probably already own the best tail stripper and skinning aid, I know of, a regular pair of pliers.

Here's what I do.

Once the hips are skinned and the base of the tail exposed, I take the pliers, set to the wide setting (on a raccoon or larger critter), then I clamp the pliers around the base of the tail, so the open part with the big teeth is around the tail bone.
Next I grip the "head" of the pliers, with the tail bone between my middle and ring fingers of one hand, and the base of the tail in the other and tug straight apart... pop you got a tail.

A "Wyoming" type gut knife will "zip" tails, but so will a decent skinner with a slight drop point (set on it's spine and pushed along).

Krusty

Sounds like you're talking about a pair of vicegrips???

Michael

[AWS]

Not visegrips just cheap slip joint pliers like you find find in a cheap tool kit.  They work great.

AWS

[Krusty]

AWS,

I understand your efforts to put up your fur in a good and proper way, but there's a lot more to that, then just the type of stretcher.

I did extensive polling, of trappers and callers alike, before settling on the most popular and sought after design.

But, I'll gladly alter the (too blunt) nose on one of my otter boards, if someone wants solid stretchers for 'cats or coyote.

But, being solid, they require more wood, a glued biscuit joint, and almost as much time to make... they're gonna cost more.

Michael,

What he said.

Krusty

[tlbradford]

Not to mention, with solid boards you need a lot more of them in various sizes. 

If you are actually taking them to a fur buyer, you want to seperate them by grade and size.  Buyers love non-uniform lots.  That way they can grade your entire lot to your worst fur and pay you less.

[Houndhunter]

my advice, dont bother stretching them, its not gonna be worth the time money and hassle unless your getting alot of yotes. which most people arnt. i just skin and then sell if you can

[AWS]

I've always made my own boards exccept for mink, I could buy them used from the fur buyer for a couple dollars a doz..  I even logged the linden (basswood) in my wood lot to get the larger one piece boards.  Other than mink and marten you only need one size per species.  Most of the boards I use now for coyotes are a non standard as I just stretch and dry to send to the tannery as I'll start sewing fur products next year.  When I was selling furs I checked with the auction houses and fur buyer to see what they wanted and would pay the most for.

AWS