Free: Contests & Raffles.
Checking the Fit of Knight stockRob, relieving the stickiness of that should be a really easy fix.... I wrote this up for a guy on Hunting Net the other day - i will repost it here. Look through it and see if it makes sense to you. I firmly believe the sticky stock will affect your accuracy... Quote: Can i get a little info on making sure i don't have any stock to barrel issues? I have seen info on tv about how a free floating barrel helps and heard of different procedures of seating the barrel. I will be putting a new stock on my gun very soon (broke the original one), and don't want to have issues there. I can share some information with you for sure... One thing to remember 'floating' a barrel is not the best for accuracy it is the ‘cheapest’ so that is why you see many companies floating barrels. Companies can not afford to spend the time (money) bedding a barrel to the stock properly so the best thing is to 'float' them. With a wood stock the temperature of the barrel on the wood will make the POI change unless they barrel is bedded in glass or some such feature. In a composite stock if the barrel were bedded into the barrel channel correctly the heat would not be a problem but the flexion of the forearm of the inexpensive stock create a POI shift - so the answer 'float' the barrel. In your case... since I think you said you have a Knight and if you are getting a Knight composite stock you might not have any of these problems. When I put a barreled action in a Knight stock I set the action in the stock and start the lug screw in. Tighten it with the Allen wrench until it starts to pull the action down. Then stand the gun vertically with the recoil pad on the floor. Gently, and honestly i am not that gentle, tap the gun on the floor to assure that the recoil lug is all the way back in the pocket. Then tighten the lug screw up snugly to hold it all in place. Forgot to say make sure the ram rod is not in place. When you have the lug screw in tight place the gun in a horizontal position and squeeze the nose of the forearm and the barrel together as tight as you can. If there is no movement – you’re done the barrel is seated on and in the barrel channel. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test. If the test is the same you’re done... go shoot it and give it a check for accuracy. If during the squeeze test (ram rod removed) the barrel moves down into the stock or the stock moves up to the barrel... release the grip and note if the barrel moves (on its own) back to the original location. Everything should be good - the barrel is floating. Next repeat the test again noting where the barrel returns to. At this time grip the barrel and the forearm of the stock and pull them apart easily. If you feel the barrel stick at some point then you have a problem. If the barrel appears to lift slightly but when you release it - it returns to the original location and you feel no points of stickiness - you are good. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test. During the squeeze testing if you felt some stickiness in the spring of the floating barrel you will then to do some very light sanding in the barrel channel to relieve the tight spot. You might be able to locate the tight spot by running a dollar bill under the barrel and between the stock to locate the tight spot. Do not sand any more than you need, in fact in my little world the thickness of a single dollar bill is the max thickness the barrel should be off the stock. I normal use a strip of white computer paper for this test it is thinner than a dollar bill - heck it might be worth more than the dollar bill also!!! Hope this might help you... when you get your new stock and if I can help give a shout.... mike I am headed out to do some trap shooting this morning I will check back in this afternoon to see if you have any questions.... try to find a round dowel approximately the same diameter as the wall on the barrel channel...
My muzzle loader key holed when I tried a certain bullet. Went back to my original and it shot perfect. Have you tried different projectiles...manufacturer and weights?
author=jrebel link=topic=241814.msg3302864#msg3302864 date=1579052166]My muzzle loader key holed when I tried a certain bullet. Went back to my original and it shot perfect. Have you tried different projectiles...manufacturer and weights? Yes I've tried quite a few. But the fact remains that these loads and sabots shot amazingly well the first few years I owned the gun.
I bought my knight disk extreme (western setup with musket caps) about 7 or so years ago. The first few seasons it shot very well with the German musket caps, 100g of FF T7 with 300g bloodlines and 240g xtp. Usually 2”, sometimes 3” groups.
My buddy went through the same thing with his Knight Disc Extreme that he bought about 6-7 years ago. Finally sent it into Knight and they sent him a new rifle. They must have made a few bad batches during that time
The bloodlines I'm using the supplied sabot and I'd say they load with difficulty. The 44cal XTPs I use the green hornady sabots which load stiffly but not too bad and are the best shooting during my troubles. The Barnes I was using were the 290grain TEZ which loaded very easy and were the worst keyholin/grouping by far. With all three I can't load over 95g without horrible accuracy and keyholing. So right now I'm just going to try knights recommendations, even though I don't think it's the flash hole, and hopefully they will have me send the rifle in to inspect it.
I went through the same thing with a disk extreme. I tried everything and that rifle cost me a bull one year. Send it back to knight. I sent mine back and they sent me a replacement that worked (although I'd already bought an Ultralight and have never really used the Disk Extreme again...heavy.) They said they thought the problem was the way the crown was cut; was destabilizing the bullet as it exited the barrel.
