I'd say that's fine to have. All the Prime's I've setup usually like 1/8" nock high. A bow might like a nock high, or form/hand shape might warrant it a bit high too. But generally anything within 1/8" is not a concern for me.
Also to speak to your timing question, new strings need 50 to 100 shots before a tune should happen. No matter the manufacture, I've found they stretch a bit and I lose 2-3 pounds of draw weight. I'm at 32" draw length and heavy arrows so it might not be as drastic for other people.
From your pictures, you'd probably want to add 2 to 4 full twists into the one hitting first. That could also take out some of your nock high depending on which side it's on.
To save you time on rabbit holes, what I've found is you need to setup everything within spec initially. That usually means draw weight is at spec at limb bolts fully turned in. Timing exactly touching at the same time. 13/16 to 7/8 sight from the riser. Arrow dead level from the shelf through your berger hole. I usually run the bottom of the arrows through the middle holes.
Then check your arrow left and right (cam lean) when compared to the riser. Shim or adjust buss cables to get the arrow as straight parallel as possible.
Shoot every arrow to get a consistent tear. If you can't you will chase your tail. If 1 or 2 arrows are different, rotate the nock. Get all 12 or 6 of your arrows with the exact some tear, and then tune to that. You'll be surprised the difference. Bareshaft tune in my opinion is not needed or has a lot of importance. Once you fletch, it's a whole different reaction. Walk back tune, torque tune, pulling hard into the wall and soft into the wall to tune (forgot what that is called) will be more beneficial and ultimately broad head tuning is where we want to be.
If you can't get consistent tears, you will never be able to tune your bow. Most likely there is contact, face pressure, or grip/form issues. Those need to be fixed before you tune.
When you take it back to Riverside, make sure they check your draw weight with your screws turned all the way up. It needs to be to your bow's spec.
Get your timing perfect, rest is the right spot, nock in the right spot, arrow level and parallel to your shelf/riser.
You should never have to move your rest more than 1/8" once you start tuning. I default to moving rest left for clearance and if I have to go right, I'll adjust buss cables or shim.
I also always default for timing to add twists to the peg hitting first, since I lose draw weight over time.
You bow may end up with them not hitting exactly at the same time, many will hit the top one first once you're all done.
If you find all this interesting, get yourself a press and self serve. That's the best way to do it! A bow shop can't spend the time needed for all this or they wouldn't make any money. A few trips to the shop would make a press a worthy investment!
This is just some quick notes on it all, let me know if you have any more specific questions.
