What do I do with a bear?

[DoubleJ]

Before I put one down, I need to know what to do with it.  Obviously, meat goes in the freezer but, I don't have the money for a mount or rug.  Paws good for anything?  claws?  Teeth?  Gall Bladder?  Actually I think that last one is illegal.  Anyway, do I just skin it, quarter it and leave it like a deer or elk?  I know to send in the tooth but, what to do with the rest.

Thanks

[BIGINNER]

MARKING THIS THREAD FOR MYSELF 

[buglebuster]

 

[Woodchuck]

Look at Michelle's write up on proper cutting and such to save the hide and save, you may be able to trade a taxi for credit or something. Freeze it for later maybe.

[PolarBear]

There is a video called "shake that bear" that can give you some ideas.  LOL!

[jackelope]

You can just have the hide tanned. It's not a rug but it's still cooler than throwing it away and it's cheaper than a rug.
Claws make for cool pendants to hang off a necklace.

There's laws as to what you can and can't sell from a bear although I'm not fluent on them.

[jackmaster]

You can just have the hide tanned. It's not a rug but it's still cooler than throwing it away and it's cheaper than a rug.
Claws make for cool pendants to hang off a necklace.

There's laws as to what you can and can't sell from a bear although I'm not fluent on them.

[Kain]

I remember seeing a fur prices report on a trapping website that had black bear skins selling for over $300. 

[Machias]

You can sell the hide, or tan it.  The skull makes an awesome display, keep and do the claws yourself (there is a great write up on this site).  If it a boar you can make a cool swizzle stick.

[Kain]

There are a lot of trappers that sell unique or exceptional animals here.  Taxidermists might want the hide.

http://www.taxidermy.net/forums/

[h20hunter]

Problem with the swizzle stick is the aftertaste!

[Michelle_Nelson]

DoubleJ here is a post I made several years ago on proper Field Care for Bears and Skinning methods for mounts.

 

Bear Rug Incision

The First diagram below will show you where to make your incisions when skinning out your bear for a Rug.  Start your incision at the anus and run it up to the top of the chest, keeping it centered.  Make a second incision from the back of the pad on the front foot across the chest to the back of the pad on the other front foot.  Your third incision should be made from the back of the pad on the rear leg through the anus to the back of the pad on the other rear foot.

 

 
 

Life - Size and Rug Skinning Method

The Ventral or Case Incision should be used if you are undecided wether or not you want a Rug or a Life-Size Mount.  Start your incision at the back of the pad on the rear leg.  Continue the incision to the back of the pad on the opposite foot.  Cut about 2 inches below the anus, make sure NOT to cut through the anus.


 

 
 

Life - Size Skinning Method

The Dorsal Incision should only be used if you plan on having a Life-Size Mount done.  Start at the base of the tail and run your incision up the bears back and end at the base of the skull, keeping your incision centered.

 

 
 

1/2 or 3/4 Mount Skinning Method

If you would like to have a 1/2 or 3/4 Mount done I would recommend skinning your Bear out using the Ventral Incision.  See Diagram #2 above.



 

Shoulder Mount Skinning Method

If you plan to have a shoulder mount done with your bear than go ahead and remove the front paws off your bear, at the wrist.  Than make an incision approximately 6" behind the front shoulder around the circumference of the animal.  The Diagram below will give you an idea where to make your incisions.  Remember to always leave plenty of skin!  Your taxidermist can always remove it later.  Better to have to much than not enough.  We can't add what isn't their to begin with!




Skinning. . . . . . .

Once you have made your incisions and begin the skinning process you will have to sever the paws off the carcass at the wrist and ankle joint leaving them in the hide.  This will help free up the skin.  When you get to the head go ahead and sever the head at the base of the skull leaving it in the hide as well.  You don't have to remove the skull or paws out of the skin if you are going to get the hide right to the freezer or to your taxidermist.  Be careful when you get around the genital area.  If you remove them or cut through them you will lack this detail on a Life Size mount.  If you decide to have a rug done these can be removed later.

Field Care. . . . . . .

It is important, once the Bear is down, get it skinned out.  Bear will hold their body heat for a long time especially if it's large and carrying a lot of fat.  Once the bear is skinned out, get it to a freezer or to a taxidermist as soon as possible.  You will want to keep the hide as cool and dry as possible.  Don't put the hide in a plastic bag.  Place it in a burlap bag, it will allow air to circulate and keep flies and other insects off your trophy.  It will also allow heat and fluids to escape.

  Heat and moisture are a hides worst enemy.  They promote bacteria growth that will cause the hair to slip (hair falling out), sometimes in large patches.  Once this has started it doesn't stop until all the hair has fallen out of the infected area.  If it is hot outside you will need to work as quickly as you can.  If it is below 40 degrees you will have a little more time to work.

DO NOT. . .

*  Leave the cape / Skin in a walk in cooler for longer than 48 hours.

*  Get the cape / skin wet. 

*  Lay the Skin in the sun, keep it in the shade.

*  Drag the animal behind a 4-wheeler when bringing it out of the woods.  This can damage the hair and cause bald spots.

*  Ride the animal / hide around in the back of your truck all day showing it off to friends and family.  Take pictures and get the animal in the freezer or to the taxidermist



Freezing. . . . . . .

If you decide to freeze the hide don't roll the hide......FOLD IT!  It will help the hide thaw out more evenly and quicker.  Also don't put the skull in the middle of the hide when folding.  It can take up to 3 days for a bear skull to freeze all the way buried in the hide.  When you put the hide in the freezer place it on a plastic bag NOT in it, to prevent it from sticking to the freezer.  After the animal is frozen than place it inside a couple plastic bags. 


Salting the Hide. . . . . . .

For extended trips in the field and out of state, especially during warm weather it may be necessary to salt a hide in order to preserve it for mounting or tanning. I do not normally suggest this unless you are proficient in properly skinning the cape from the skull, splitting the lips, eyes, nose, and ears, and removing the flesh and fat.

I buy my salt at the local feed store in 50# bags.  It is called Feed, Feeder,or Stock Salt.  This is a fine grain salt like table salt.  Make sure it is Non-Iodized.  DO NOT use rock salt.

Lay the skin out flat and apply the salt liberally. On an average bear hide I will use a whole 50 pound bag of salt. There is no such thing as too much salt. Let the salt stand on the skin for 24 hours, then shake it off and salt it again. You shouldn't have to use as much salt the second time, but be sure that the entire skin is covered. Let it stand for another day and then shake the skin off and let it air dry. Large hides should be rolled before they are completely dry otherwise they are difficult to transport.

Consult with your taxidermist on how to complete these tasks and then you can properly salt a skin.

[Michelle_Nelson]

Read all of section 2 subsection B.

WAC 232-12-071
Buying or selling game unlawful — Game-farmed meat exception. 
 
(1) It is unlawful to offer for sale, sell, purchase, or barter edible parts of wild animals or game birds. It is unlawful to offer for sale, sell, purchase, or barter edible parts of game fish, except pursuant to RCW 77.65.480.

    (2) It is unlawful to offer for sale, sell, purchase, or barter the nonedible parts of wild animals, game birds, or game fish if:

     (a) The possession, sale, selling, purchase, or barter is prohibited by federal regulations;

     (b) The wild animals, game birds, or game fish were taken in violation of any law or regulation in any jurisdiction, and the seller, purchaser, or person bartering knew the animal, bird, or fish was illegally taken; or

     (c) The nonedible parts are of bighorn sheep or mountain goat; bear gall bladders; claws or teeth of bear that are not permanently attached to a full bear skin or mounted bear; or velvet antlers of deer, elk, or moose; and a permit has not been granted by the department allowing for the sale, purchase, or barter of any of the animal parts listed in this subsection (2)(c).

     (3) For purposes of subsection (2)(c) of this section, all of those parts are considered "nonedible" even if they are used for human consumption.

     (4) Under RCW 77.15.194, it is unlawful to knowingly buy, sell, or otherwise exchange, or to offer to buy, sell, or otherwise exchange, the raw fur or carcass of a wild animal trapped in Washington with a body-gripping trap, whether or not the animal is trapped pursuant to a permit.

     (5) It is unlawful to offer for sale, sell, purchase, or barter game-farm raised deer and elk, unless the following conditions have been met:

     (a) Proof of the source of the game-farmed meat is maintained with the meat until the meat is consumed or exported. Qualifying proof includes sales or purchase invoices or receipts containing the following information in the English language:

     (i) Name of seller or importer;

     (ii) Name of the company selling the meat;

     (iii) The date of sale;

     (iv) The quantity of meat sold; and

     (v) The species of the meat sold.

     (b) The meat is imported from a U.S. licensed game farm, or a game farm in another country.

     (c) The meat is boned, and only the meat is imported.

     (d) The meat is packaged for retail sale prior to importation into this state.

     (6) A violation of subsection (4) of this section is punishable under RCW 77.15.194. The remaining subsections in this section are punishable under RCW 77.15.260.

     (7) If you request a written permit to offer for sale, sell, purchase, or barter the nonedible parts of wild animals listed in subsection (2)(c) of this section, and your request is denied, you have a right to a hearing under the provisions of chapter 34.05 RCW. In order to obtain a hearing, you must notify the department, in writing, within forty-five days of the date of the letter denying your permit. The address to send hearing requests to is:


     The Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife

     Legal Affairs - Office of the Director

     Post Office Box 43137

     Olympia, Washington 98504-3137


     If you do not request a hearing to contest denial of the permit, the permit denial will become effective forty-five days following the denial

[Michelle_Nelson]

There are quite a few things your can do with a Bear.  You can sell the hide.  Most taxidermists are only interested in them if they have prime or close to it.  Right now most if not all the Bears have a pretty flat coat because they have shed there under wool.  Typically August Bears are pretty flat.  You start getting up in the wilderness areas up in the Mountains and the hides are typically better.
 
One thing to keep in mind is if you have a good Bear Hide a lot of taxi's will trade you shop credit or will Clean/Whiten the skull in trade.
 
Here is my 2010 Price List to give you an idea of costs for mounts.
 
http://mntaxidermy.webs.com/pricelist.htm

[DoubleJ]

There is a video called "shake that bear" that can give you some ideas.  LOL!

 
LOL!!!!!!!!  I remember when that hit the net.  CLASSIC