Author Topic: Broadhead question (Read 12435 times)

enaz · « **on:** July 27, 2012, 01:59:10 PM »

I have this on a thread in the bowhunting forum but I figure I'd start my own here. I'm having trouble getting my broadheads to shoot the same as field tips. I get good groups with field tips, but when I switch to broadheads, they shoot to the left. 2 inches @ 10 yards, 10 inches or so @ 40 yards. I tried adjusting the rest in small increments to the right and adjusting my sights to that, hoping they would shoot closer together. This didn't work, kept hitting left with BH. My draw length is 29.5 and I'm shooting a limbsaver DZ 32. Using pretty low end 400 carbon arrows, but they fly staight and group tight. 100 grain field tips, and 100 grain NAP thunderhead BH's. Any advice is much appreciated! Season is approaching.

dreamingbig · « **Reply #1 on:** July 27, 2012, 02:18:37 PM »

Without knowing the brand of arrow it is hard to tell if you have the accurate spine. Other things to check would be cam timing. And have you confirmed that there is no fletch contact by spraying the fletching with foot powder or lipstick?

Another suggestion would be to try another broadhead but I would run through the others first.

mallard79 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 27, 2012, 03:01:49 PM »

What pound draw are you shooting? Sounds like you are under spined to me.....When I first got my bow, I made the mistake of trusting the guy behind the counter......he sold me 400 spined arrows....I went to broadhead tune and it was impossible! Started looking at everything........finally figured out that I needed to be shooting 340 spined arrows. Got some new arrows and was broadhead tuned the next day!
Where are you located...lots of members on here willing to help fellow hunters whenever possible.

bonkellekter · « **Reply #3 on:** July 27, 2012, 04:34:39 PM »

Are you left or right handed? For right handed shooter - broadheads grouping to the left is indicative of too stiff of a spine. Opposite for left handers

RadSav · « **Reply #4 on:** July 27, 2012, 05:06:30 PM »

Do a Bing search for "French Tuning Method" of center tune adjustment. Or PM me for a copy. It's a quick and easy way to assure your center shot is set.

Try to borrow a 340 spine from someone and see what happens. I expect at 29.5" arrow spine is the issue. Generally speaking bonkellekter is right, but if spine is way off like I expect that doesn't always hold true. If you get the same thing with a 340 or 300 spine then you can eliminate that as an issue.

Switch field points and broadheads among all arrows. Could be a spline issue as well.

Cam timing doesn't always present itself in a virtical grouping. Especially if spine is on the light side. The DZ-32 cam is much the same as the Hoyt cam. Most of those shoot best when the upper cam is slightly advanced. If changing spine does not effect things try advancing the upper cam by 1 or 1.5 twists in the control cable.

100 grain broadhead on a 400 sine arrow probably puts you way light on your FOC. Since I expect your light on spine already increasing FOC might make things worse. But, generally speaking once again, a 29.5" broadhead tipped arrow shoots better with 125 grain points or more.

Good luck

enaz · « **Reply #5 on:** July 27, 2012, 05:55:21 PM »

I've been generally misguided since I started shooting archery, not having a knowledgable expert to help get me set up. I more or less have bought the equipment I've been advised and kind've winged it and figured it out. I'm just not savvy on all the little quirks like the spine, and how cams can be adjusted, how differernt grain tips are better with some lengths and spines. I thought I got the right arrows going by the chart for my draw length. I'm tight for cash and wanted to have enough arrows to practice and hunt with so I got beman ICS hunter 400, and if I can get away with not buying any other arrows that would be great. I now wish I would've gone up to 125 grain tips and bought 340 spine arrows. I made the mistake of letting cabelas work on my first bow and they messed it up bad so I don't ask them for anything. I've taken my new bow to fletch setter in ranier and the fellow that helped me was less than informative, and no one I know shoots very much or knows much about it. Archery has become so much more advanced since my grandpa archery hunted so I'm very greatful for everyone's input.

RadSav · « **Reply #6 on:** July 27, 2012, 06:20:29 PM »

If they fly nice and just don't impact with your field points who cares if spine is correct or not. If it fall in the Easton or Beman chart it might not be as good a match as you could have, but there should not be much of a danger. Just sight in for broadheads and then back to field points after the season. I've had a few bow/arrow combinations that just would not group the two together no matter what. Still killed plenty of stuff with them.

Some times we try to get too scientific and perfect with a stick and a string. If they are flying nice and your low on funds I'd just sight in for using broadheads when the time comes. Pretty sure the animal is not going to care your broadheads don't group with your field points

enaz · « **Reply #7 on:** July 27, 2012, 06:32:48 PM »

Radsav, I think you're right. I'll keep shootin field tips until 2 weeks before season, As long as my broadheads are consistant I don't see a problem ! thanks guys

bonkellekter · « **Reply #8 on:** July 27, 2012, 06:34:57 PM »

Rad... Thanks for clearing up my post, I am on my phone and hate to write too much on it! I too suspect too weak of a spine based on the info given. The other thing not mentioned (or I missed it) is you could reduce your draw weight by a few pounds and see if that brings them closer together

RadSav · « **Reply #9 on:** July 27, 2012, 06:39:05 PM »

Quote from: bonkellekter on July 27, 2012, 06:34:57 PM

The other thing not mentioned (or I missed it) is you could reduce your draw weight by a few pounds and see if that brings them closer together

That would be too damn easy, wouldn't it?

You didn't miss it. I did.

enaz · « **Reply #10 on:** July 28, 2012, 08:36:43 AM »

I think I'm goin to try reducing the draw weight a few pounds, rigth now I'm at 70 , and a chart I just read said use 340 @ 29.5. I'll back it off to 65 where it falls well into the 400 bracket @ 29.5". Maybe this will help! Thinking about hooking up with someone who actually knows what they are doing, if I can find someone around these parts.Grays harbor if anyone is interested

snarkybull · « **Reply #11 on:** July 28, 2012, 07:01:27 PM »

question: do you have room to shorten the arrows a little bit? that's another way to stiffen the spine. you'd have to buy some new inserts, but they are pretty cheap. you'd need to make sure you still have 6 grains per pound of draw to stay legal.

enaz · « **Reply #12 on:** July 30, 2012, 05:43:48 PM »

I can't shorten my arrows any more, but I can reduce the draw weight. Right now I'm at 70 and if I reduce it 5 pounds, I should be well within legal limits using 340 or 400 spine arrow right?

And it might make my FT and BH group better?

buckfvr · « **Reply #13 on:** July 30, 2012, 06:21:06 PM »

Quote from: snarkybull on July 28, 2012, 07:01:27 PM

question: do you have room to shorten the arrows a little bit? that's another way to stiffen the spine. you'd have to buy some new inserts, but they are pretty cheap. you'd need to make sure you still have 6 grains per pound of draw to stay legal.

Leave the inserts alone.....cut fletch off, cut back end of shaft and refletch................

RadSav · « **Reply #14 on:** July 30, 2012, 06:40:52 PM »

Back in the day I was a big fan of the 2213 XX75 and 2214 X7. When I would get a new bow I'd set poundage for 65#. I'd then adjust poundage up or down to maximize flight and performance. That meant some bows were at 62# and others were 68#. Those bows were always deadly and broadheads always shot with field points.

These days so many archers are blinded by the perceived benefit and aphrodisiac of speed they find it difficult to find a good solution. They shoot a well tuned bow through a chrony and feel the overwhelming need to mess it up for a few fps gain. If shooting pins and range finder 30 fps in speed means literally nothing at bowhunting distances. A well tuned and balanced bow on the other hand makes a sizable difference.

I think you are on a very good path by dropping poundage to better match the dynamic spine of your arrow. Don't be concerned about going a little further if needed. One of the great things about the modern bow is optimal tune and performance varies little anymore when backing off limbs/poundage. Within safety and reason, of course.

buckfvr · « **Reply #15 on:** July 30, 2012, 06:53:46 PM »

I still favor the XX78 super swage 2213 ( two dozen ready to roll, one dozen new uncut ), X7s, and 60lb limbs. Give me a longer ATA and brace height and keep your speed. Should never have sold the Q2XL, but the Icon is a great easy shooter also.

snarkybull · « **Reply #16 on:** July 30, 2012, 11:11:28 PM »

Quote from: enaz on July 30, 2012, 05:43:48 PM

Right now I'm at 70 and if I reduce it 5 pounds, I should be well within legal limits using 340 or 400 spine arrow right? And it might make my FT and BH group better?

only way to know legality for sure is to weigh your arrows with bh's. 70 pounds requires 420 grains (27.2155 grams), 65 pounds requires 390 grains (25.2716 grams).

enaz · « **Reply #17 on:** August 16, 2012, 09:50:32 PM »

I just wanted to update and thanks for everyone for there advice especially RadSav. I finally had someone look at it who knew what they were doing and had it tuned. My cam timing was off pretty badly. The guy who worked on it works for limbsaver and is building me some carbon express 350 spine arrows. The biggest thing for me was my draw stop pins were set way to far forward and I wasn't even getting quite to full draw. This made it hard to hold at full draw after awhile because there was no let off. I didn't really realize this until I shot my girlfriends new bow. I couldn't let up at all or it would try to jump out of my hands. now it has great let off and feels way more stable in my hands. As for broadheads, I dind't shoot any tonight. I got it sighted back in with field tips and I'm going to shoot broadheads starting tomorrow. I have a feeling they're going to shoot a little better. Thanks again for all the advice everyone.

RadSav · « **Reply #18 on:** August 17, 2012, 12:31:40 AM »

Glad to hear things are coming along. Everyone I have met at Sims has been helpful and terrific. Glad you were able to hook up with someone there and get things set up right. Carbon Express 350's

That should be so much better for your setup.

Really sounds like you are making some good decisions. Good luck!

xXLojackXx · « **Reply #19 on:** August 17, 2012, 08:15:28 AM »

Quote from: mallard79 on July 27, 2012, 03:01:49 PM

What pound draw are you shooting? Sounds like you are under spined to me.....When I first got my bow, I made the mistake of trusting the guy behind the counter......he sold me 400 spined arrows....I went to broadhead tune and it was impossible! Started looking at everything........finally figured out that I needed to be shooting 340 spined arrows. Got some new arrows and was broadhead tuned the next day!
Where are you located...lots of members on here willing to help fellow hunters whenever possible.

I shoot 400's at 73lbs draw with 100gr Montec G5's and love 'em!

Battle Ready · « **Reply #20 on:** August 19, 2012, 05:33:06 PM »

I find it refreshing that solutions were found without everyone trying to be an expert..very nice..thank you. What a good read! I have been tuning bows now for a while, and most "poor groups" and so forth are from the arrows selected. One of the best tools I have is Archers Advantage..love it. Ive also learned a great deal from guys like Radsav over the years, and still learning from others.

enaz · « **Reply #21 on:** August 20, 2012, 10:45:17 PM »

I got my arrows that I had built today. I told him to suprise me but make them easy to see. I didn't quite expect this but I gues I can live with it

They're carbon express predator 2 6075 @ 29". I'm excited to put broadheads on them and shoot tomorrow. After having my bow tuned and all that, my BH's were still shooting way low. So if I have this problem with the new arrows, I'm just gonna sight in with my BH's and only shhot them until after season. It's way to close to opening day to be messin with this stuff.

BOWHUNTER45 · « **Reply #22 on:** August 20, 2012, 10:58:48 PM »

Definately colorful

carpsniperg2 · « **Reply #23 on:** August 20, 2012, 11:06:20 PM »

They will stand out!!!

colockumelk · « **Reply #24 on:** August 21, 2012, 09:24:21 AM »

If they are hitting low adjust your rest up a about 1/8". And see if that brings your BH's up with your field points. Adjusting for elevation is super easy. It's the left and right that is more difficult. How is the windage are the broadheads still hitting left or are they inline with your field tips.

BOWHUNTER45 · « **Reply #25 on:** August 21, 2012, 10:02:54 AM »

Here is another head that flies true and is seriously deadly ....My friend has killed elk and deer with ease using a 100 gr Nitron ...tough and reliable ... We just prefer the smaller heads since we have dropped enough sheet with them to know something is going down ....

figured I would change it up a little that's all

DIYARCHERYJUNKIE · « **Reply #26 on:** August 24, 2012, 07:50:28 AM »

This year i took my Broadhead arrow tuning to an extreme. I first got an ez fletch arizona jig for 45 bucks shipped online. Two colors of blazer vanes and a vane stripper. Then i bought a pack of bemans 340 ics hunters. I stripped the arras of the 3- 4" vanes. Plugged both ends and floated it in my tub. The consistantly bottom side becomes the top of all arras. I added 4- 2" vanes in line with all blades on the broadhead i shoot 4 blade slick trick mags. I glue my knock so i never have to worrie about it spinning. My arras leave my bow the same every shot giving consistant flight. The resistance is considerably less if broadhaeds are lined up with the vanes. I get my good shafts with broadheads to fly as consistant if not better than field points. Some say it does nothing but id tell them they should give it a go. I get consistant groups of 4-5" at 60 meters with broad heads. Or it could of been the spine lol. Good luck this season.

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Author Topic: Broadhead question (Read 12435 times)

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