Broadhead question

[enaz]

I have this on a thread in the bowhunting forum but I figure I'd start my own here. I'm having trouble getting my broadheads to shoot the same as field tips. I get good groups with field tips, but when I switch to broadheads, they shoot to the left. 2 inches @ 10 yards, 10 inches or so @ 40 yards. I tried adjusting the rest in small increments to the right and adjusting my sights to that, hoping they would shoot closer together. This didn't work, kept hitting left with BH. My draw length is 29.5 and I'm shooting a limbsaver DZ 32. Using pretty low end  400 carbon arrows, but they fly staight and group tight. 100 grain field tips, and 100 grain NAP thunderhead BH's. Any advice is much appreciated! Season is approaching.

[dreamingbig]

Without knowing the brand of arrow it is hard to tell if you have the accurate spine.  Other things to check would be cam timing.  And have you confirmed that there is no fletch contact by spraying the fletching with foot powder or lipstick?

Another suggestion would be to try another broadhead but I would run through the others first.

[mallard79]

What pound draw are you shooting? Sounds like you are under spined to me.....When I first got my bow, I made the mistake of trusting the guy behind the counter......he sold me 400 spined arrows....I went to broadhead tune and it was impossible! Started looking at everything........finally figured out that I needed to be shooting 340 spined arrows. Got some new arrows and was broadhead tuned the next day!
Where are you located...lots of members on here willing to help fellow hunters whenever possible.

[bonkellekter]

Are you left or right handed? For right handed shooter - broadheads grouping to the left is indicative of too stiff of a spine. Opposite for left handers

[RadSav]

Do a Bing search for "French Tuning Method" of center tune adjustment.  Or PM me for a copy.  It's a quick and easy way to assure your center shot is set.

Try to borrow a 340 spine from someone and see what happens.  I expect at 29.5" arrow spine is the issue.  Generally speaking bonkellekter is right, but if spine is way off like I expect that doesn't always hold true.  If you get the same thing with a 340 or 300 spine then you can eliminate that as an issue.

Switch field points and broadheads among all arrows.  Could be a spline issue as well.

Cam timing doesn't always present itself in a virtical grouping.  Especially if spine is on the light side.  The DZ-32 cam is much the same as the Hoyt cam.  Most of those shoot best when the upper cam is slightly advanced.  If changing spine does not effect things try advancing the upper cam by 1 or 1.5 twists in the control cable.

100 grain broadhead on a 400 sine arrow probably puts you way light on your FOC.  Since I expect your light on spine already increasing FOC might make things worse.  But, generally speaking once again, a 29.5" broadhead tipped arrow shoots better with 125 grain points or more.

Good luck

[enaz]

I've been generally misguided since I started shooting archery, not having a knowledgable expert to help get me set up. I more or less have bought the equipment I've been advised and kind've winged it and figured it out. I'm just not savvy on all the little quirks like the spine, and how cams can be adjusted, how differernt grain tips are better with some lengths and spines. I thought I got the right arrows going by the chart for my draw length. I'm tight for cash and wanted to have enough arrows to practice and hunt with so I got beman ICS hunter 400, and if I can get away with not buying any other arrows that would be great. I now wish I would've gone up to 125 grain tips and bought 340 spine arrows. I made the mistake of letting cabelas work on my first bow and they messed it up bad so I don't ask them for anything. I've taken my new bow to fletch setter in ranier and the fellow that helped me was less than informative, and no one I know shoots very much or knows much about it. Archery has become so much more advanced since my grandpa archery hunted so I'm very greatful for everyone's input.

[RadSav]

If they fly nice and just don't impact with your field points who cares if spine is correct or not.  If it fall in the Easton or Beman chart it might not be as good a match as you could have, but there should not be much of a danger.  Just sight in for broadheads and then back to field points after the season.  I've had a few bow/arrow combinations that just would not group the two together no matter what.  Still killed plenty of stuff with them. 

Some times we try to get too scientific and perfect with a stick and a string.  If they are flying nice and your low on funds I'd just sight in for using broadheads when the time comes.  Pretty sure the animal is not going to care your broadheads don't group with your field points

[enaz]

Radsav, I think you're right. I'll keep shootin field tips until 2 weeks before season, As long as my broadheads are consistant I don't see a problem ! thanks guys

[bonkellekter]

Rad... Thanks for clearing up my post, I am on my phone and hate to write too much on it! I too suspect too weak of a spine based on the info given. The other thing not mentioned (or I missed it) is you could reduce your draw weight by a few pounds and see if that brings them closer together

[RadSav]

The other thing not mentioned (or I missed it) is you could reduce your draw weight by a few pounds and see if that brings them closer together

That would be too damn easy, wouldn't it?   You didn't miss it.  I did.

[enaz]

I think I'm goin to try reducing the draw weight a few pounds, rigth now I'm at 70 , and a chart I just read said use 340 @ 29.5. I'll back it off to 65 where it falls well into the 400 bracket @ 29.5". Maybe this will help! Thinking about hooking up with someone who actually knows what they are doing, if I can find someone around these parts.Grays harbor if anyone is interested

[snarkybull]

question:  do you have room to shorten the arrows a little bit?  that's another way to stiffen the spine.  you'd have to buy some new inserts, but they are pretty cheap.  you'd need to make sure you still have 6 grains per pound of draw to stay legal.

[enaz]

I can't shorten my arrows any more, but I can reduce the draw weight. Right now I'm at 70 and if I reduce it 5 pounds, I should be well within legal limits using 340 or 400 spine arrow right? And it might make my FT and BH group better?

[buckfvr]

question:  do you have room to shorten the arrows a little bit?  that's another way to stiffen the spine.  you'd have to buy some new inserts, but they are pretty cheap.  you'd need to make sure you still have 6 grains per pound of draw to stay legal.

Leave the inserts alone.....cut fletch off, cut back end of shaft and refletch................

[RadSav]

Back in the day I was a big fan of the 2213 XX75 and 2214 X7.  When I would get a new bow I'd set poundage for 65#.  I'd then adjust poundage up or down to maximize flight and performance.  That meant some bows were at 62# and others were 68#.  Those bows were always deadly and broadheads always shot with field points.

These days so many archers are blinded by the perceived benefit and aphrodisiac of speed they find it difficult to find a good solution.  They shoot a well tuned bow through a chrony and feel the overwhelming need to mess it up for a few fps gain.  If shooting pins and range finder 30 fps in speed means literally nothing at bowhunting distances.  A well tuned and balanced bow on the other hand makes a sizable difference.

I think you are on a very good path by dropping poundage to better match the dynamic spine of your arrow.  Don't be concerned about going a little further if needed.  One of the great things about the modern bow is optimal tune and performance varies little anymore when backing off limbs/poundage.  Within safety and reason, of course.