Why shoot field tips?

[300rum]

Tell me something, if you are going to use broadheads in the field why does one ever need to shoot field tips?  This switching back and forth thing doesn't make any sense and to me it is just setting you up to miss Mr. Bruiser.   I shoot broad heads exclusively.  If you tell me that your broadheads and field tips fly the same you are much better than I am, I just don't see it.  Who cares about ruining a target quicker?  I've shot hundreds of times in my yellow jacket and it is still in good shape and only costs $50 bucks to replace, I will pay for a new target every year if I have to not to bungle it in November.  The pro shop guys tell me "oh, you don't want to ruin your target", aren't you in the business to sell targets?

To me this switching back and forth thing is like shooting two types of ammunition, it doesn't make sense to me.

[wastickslinger]

I dont think they like you shooting broadheads at 3-D shoots. Lots of guys enjoy that all summer.

I agree though, if all you do is shoot in your backyard at the block in the summer there is no real need to switch back and forth. I chose not to the last two years. Made life alot eisier.

I think if I were to become a serious 3-D shooter I would consider two bows.

[300rum]

I have never shot 3D, sounds fun though.  Why not shoot broadheads at 3D, who cares if it tears the targets up quicker, charge $5 bucks more?

[wastickslinger]

I have only shot a few. Both times a lost a few arrows too. Friggin raccon or flying turkey I also crushed one on the iron target. I dont know what your setup(arrow, wrap, broadhead) cost but when I loose one I am out about $15.

They are fun! I need to do it more often.

[Ray]

I have never shot 3D, sounds fun though.  Why not shoot broadheads at 3D, who cares if it tears the targets up quicker, charge $5 bucks more?

Broadheads do a lot more damage to the targets than field tips. They also lodge themselves into trees or other objects much easier. The field points I use are also much cheaper and fly in a very similar manner as the broadheads I shoot. For me it makes no sense to buy expensive broadheads and put them on my practice arrows. There is no advantage to it from my setup. However if someone else wanted to use strictly broadheads what would I care?

[skynyr]

I use field points for several reasons.

• I find it cheaper to adjust my bow rather than buying new targets.
  
• Also I occasionally shoot in my backyard when I'm working on my bow and I don't like the idea of a wild broadhead going through the neighbor's yard should something go wrong.
  
  • Field points are typically easier to pull from the target.
    
  • And they're safer, no sliced fingers.
    
    • And they don't allow broadheads on the targets at the archery club. With the exception of the sand broadhead pits or at the annual broadhead 3-d shoot.
    
    
    
    

[Bscman]

Perhaps if you don't shoot a lot, or if you're the "I'll start practicing 2-3 weeks before the season" guy, practicing with only broadheads makes sense.

I'd bet I average 400-500 shots per week with my bow through the year...and probably 700-800 in the weeks just before the season opens.
How many weeks would a yellow jacket hold up under those conditions? Probably 2 weeks, max. Most shooting bags and blocks I've had were LUCKY to last to 1,000 arrows when using broadheads.

Another reason for me is because my local range doesn't allow broadheads.
They use hay bales and paper/cardboard targets 90% of the time, with 3-D shoots from time to time. Broadheads will chew up a paper target in 5-6 shots, and a 3-D buck only lasts one day if everyone shoots heads.

They also have a 30+ target walk-through course with shots uphill, downhill, across creeks, from stands and benches, etc. None of the targets offer yardage, so it's guess and test. I could never get that kind of practice at home using broadheads on my own block...so I'll use field tips there!
I believe it is just as important to practice judging distances as it is to shoot, shoot, shoot.

Besides the other reasons listed by everyone else, I'll add that there is a certain degree of safety as well. If I trip and fall, I'd rather land on a field tip than a broadhead. I've also never sliced my finger on a field tip.

[Jason]

Tell me something, if you are going to use broadheads in the field why does one ever need to shoot field tips?  This switching back and forth thing doesn't make any sense and to me it is just setting you up to miss Mr. Bruiser.   I shoot broad heads exclusively.  If you tell me that your broadheads and field tips fly the same you are much better than I am, I just don't see it. 

my broadheads "Wac'em Tritons" fly indentical to my fieldpoints,I dont have to touch the sight to shoot broadheads.

[popeshawnpaul]

I'm with Jason.  My Slick Tricks fly EXACTLY with the field points.  So why would I use broadheads?  If someone can answer that one for me I'm all ears...  It really only takes me about 3 minutes to screw them on the morning of the hunt...  So time isn't an issue.  I'll save my targets and keep my broadheads sharp for when I need them.

Now, in the old days with Thunderheads and Muzzy broadheads I would have to tune them and get them all dialed in.  I shot them months before the season to get use to them.  We don't need to do that these days with the advancement of broadheads.

[Bigshooter]

I have not been as lucky as Jason or the Pope.  I have not been able to get field tips to hit to the same point of aim as my broadheads.  I wish I could.  I would save a lot of money.

[Houndhunter]

seems like a pointless topic

[PA BEN]

You hit bulls eye's with your brodheads. You know your bow is tuned good with your hunting heads. Then shoot your field tips, they might group in a different spot, don't worry about it, you still need to shoot to keep your form and good groups. Brodheads well destroy another arrow if it hits it. Field points are easier on other arrows in the target. And saves your target too. Keep two practice arrows with your hunting heads and take a couple of shots every once in a wile with them. Keeping your form is very important.

[mlgunkel]

I have struggled in the past with broadheads shooting differently than my field points.  This year I bought Wac'ems and they fly the same.  I also am shooting a different bow though.  The pro shop guy says if they fly significantly different 90% of the time it's because of arrow contact.  The broadheads magnify the wiggle.

[Todd_ID]

I have no significant need to be grouping broadheads in January, February, June, July, August, and October.  There simply isn't anything that I choose to hunt in those months.  The rest of the months I only get so many days in the field chasing something, and the rest of the days I shoot at home.  I average 50 shots a day all year long: that's around 18,000 shots a year.  I have four 3D targets and two Rinehart targets in my field that together cost in the neighborhood of $660.  If I could afford to replace those targets every month, then I may re-think my choice not to shoot broadheads every day of every month.  Until the Lotto pays off I think I'll be sticking to shooting field points more often.  It's not witchcraft to get a bow to shoot broadheads and field points into the same group at any yardage, so the question becomes, "Why not learn bow tuning, get the bow shooting its best, and then switch to broadheads two weeks before the season to make sure that the point of impact has not changed and go hunt?"  Find a buddy to teach you tuning techniques, shoot more field points, and put the money saved into the gas tank for a scouting trip that you wouldn't have taken.  At least that's my opinion, for what it's worth.

[coachcw]

If they don't shoot the same then somethings wrong . whether it be tune or form you need to figure it out . if for nothing else you'll be more in tune with you equiptment . not to mention the safty issue a broadhead can pose.