Knight Bighorn sites

[danderson]

  I picked up a knight bighorn 50 cal. last year from a friend of mine, after sighting it in I never got a very good group out to 100 yards and noticed that the fiber optic front site was damaged, so I picked up a replacement site and still my groups didn't improve, now I'm thinking that I should just get a new front and rear that match, I tryed using different powers and settled on 100 grains of  triple 7, and 294 grain power belts, the SST bullets didn't fly any better, I haven't shot the Barns yet herd that may be the solution, plus there a little cheaper, any suggestions ?

[bear hunter]

My big horn loves the Thomson shock wave 250gr with 3 pellets. It groups nice about 1 1/2" and shoots flat. The round are not bad priced either. 30 rounds for 28.00 dollars at cableas. I have shot many other but the lead bullets fly every where. I only use sabot's now.

[elkboy]

I've been shooting the Knight Bloodlines, and absolutely could not be more pleased with the accuracy.  I also put a Williams peep sight on my Bighorn, and that also has helped tighten the groups. 

[Sabotloader]

  I picked up a knight bighorn 50 cal. last year from a friend of mine, after sighting it in I never got a very good group out to 100 yards and noticed that the fiber optic front site was damaged, so I picked up a replacement site and still my groups didn't improve, now I'm thinking that I should just get a new front and rear that match, I tryed using different powers and settled on 100 grains of  triple 7, and 294 grain power belts, the SST bullets didn't fly any better, I haven't shot the Barns yet herd that may be the solution, plus there a little cheaper, any suggestions ?

It might not be totally your sights.  There is a possiblity it could be the way the barrel is sitting in the stock.  I doubt that the barrel is floated but you can try to slide a dollar bill under the barrel and between the stock.  If it slides all the way back to lug then it is floated and barrel to sock should not be a problem (remove the ram rod b4 testing).

If it does not slide back or gets stuck here and there you might have the problem. This situation could change the barrel harmonics each time you shoot, especially as the barrel heats up.  Changing the barrel vibrations will move the POI.

Here is a routine that I wrote up awhile back to check a Knight stock to barrel fit...


Checking the Fit of Knight stock


Rob, relieving the stickiness of that should be a really easy fix....

I wrote this up for a guy on Hunting Net the other day - i will repost it here. Look through it and see if it makes sense to you. I firmly believe the sticky stock will affect your accuracy...

Quote:
Can i get a little info on making sure i don't have any stock to barrel issues? I have seen info on tv about how a free floating barrel helps and heard of different procedures of seating the barrel. I will be putting a new stock on my gun very soon (broke the original one), and don't want to have issues there.

I can share some information with you for sure... One thing to remember 'floating' a barrel is not the best for accuracy it is the ‘cheapest’ so that is why you see many companies floating barrels. Companies can not afford to spend the time (money) bedding a barrel to the stock properly so the best thing is to 'float' them. With a wood stock the temperature of the barrel on the wood will make the POI change unless they barrel is bedded in glass or some such feature. In a composite stock if the barrel were bedded into the barrel channel correctly the heat would not be a problem but the flexion of the forearm of the inexpensive stock create a POI shift - so the answer 'float' the barrel.

In your case... since I think you said you have a Knight and if you are getting a Knight composite stock you might not have any of these problems. When I put a barreled action in a Knight stock I set the action in the stock and start the lug screw in. Tighten it with the Allen wrench until it starts to pull the action down. Then stand the gun vertically with the recoil pad on the floor. Gently, and honestly i am not that gentle, tap the gun on the floor to assure that the recoil lug is all the way back in the pocket. Then tighten the lug screw up snugly to hold it all in place. Forgot to say make sure the ram rod is not in place.

When you have the lug screw in tight place the gun in a horizontal position and squeeze the nose of the forearm and the barrel together as tight as you can. If there is no movement – you’re done the barrel is seated on and in the barrel channel. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test. If the test is the same you’re done... go shoot it and give it a check for accuracy.

If during the squeeze test (ram rod removed) the barrel moves down into the stock or the stock moves up to the barrel... release the grip and note if the barrel moves (on its own) back to the original location. Everything should be good - the barrel is floating. Next repeat the test again noting where the barrel returns to. At this time grip the barrel and the forearm of the stock and pull them apart easily. If you feel the barrel stick at some point then you have a problem. If the barrel appears to lift slightly but when you release it - it returns to the original location and you feel no points of stickiness - you are good. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test.

During the squeeze testing if you felt some stickiness in the spring of the floating barrel you will then to do some very light sanding in the barrel channel to relieve the tight spot. You might be able to locate the tight spot by running a dollar bill under the barrel and between the stock to locate the tight spot. Do not sand any more than you need, in fact in my little world the thickness of a single dollar bill is the max thickness the barrel should be off the stock. I normal use a strip of white computer paper for this test it is thinner than a dollar bill - heck it might be worth more than the dollar bill also!!!

Hope this might help you... when you get your new stock and if I can help give a shout....

 

[danderson]

Sabotloader, thanks for the information, I just checked my barrel with a dollar bill and its tighter than a bulls ass in fly season, cant even get the bill started,  its a composite stock so if I understand your directions correctly I need to loosen up the lug screw place the butt of the  rifle stock  on the ground tap gently until the recoil lug is all the way back in the pocket then tighten the lug screw, checking to make sure there is enough play for a dollar bill to pass between the barrel and stock,

[Sabotloader]

Sabotloader, thanks for the information, I just checked my barrel with a dollar bill and its tighter than a bulls ass in fly season, cant even get the bill started,  its a composite stock so if I understand your directions correctly I need to loosen up the lug screw place the butt of the  rifle stock  on the ground tap gently until the recoil lug is all the way back in the pocket then tighten the lug screw, checking to make sure there is enough play for a dollar bill to pass between the barrel and stock,

That activity will not fpoat the barrel but it will get the barred action all the way to the rear...

Just because the barrel is not floating is not a sign that everything is bad... but it is probably leading in part to your grouping problem.

With the rod out did you squeeze the barrel and stock together right at the end of the stock?  Was there any movement and when you let go did it go back to the original spot?

Next, with two hands pull the stock and barrel away from each other, did you feel any stickness? when you have them apart gently let go.  Does the barrel and stock move back to the same spot they were?

If the barrel sticks at all going down or coming up - you need to locate the sticky spot in the barrel channel of the stock and sand that point out - a little bit at a time. Reassembly and repeat test until stock no longer sticks any where. It can contact the stock but it should not stick anyplace.

You can also try to shim the barreled action up and see it clears(floats the barrel).  Cut a small piece ot teflon cutting pad from the kitchen - your wifle used them as cutting boards - well maybe she does.  Anyway cut a small square that will fit in the bottom of the recoil lug pocket in the stock.  Use a regular hole punch and punch a hole in the center of the square so the lug screw will pass through it.  Insert that in the bottom of the lug pocket put the gun back together and see if you get a floating barrel. If it does might shoot it and see if that tightens your groups.  This is just a temporary fix to see if it helps accuracy...

I have done all this so many times it makes since to me.. but I also know I do not write so well so I may not be making sense...

mike

[danderson]

I didn't get any movement in the stock while pressing against the barrel, or from pulling the barrel away from the stock, I haven't tryed loosening up the screw lug.

[Sabotloader]

I didn't get any movement in the stock while pressing against the barrel, or from pulling the barrel away from the stock, I haven't tryed loosening up the screw lug.

good... no movement is normally good.

Now the next test.  Pull the ram rod and then remove the lug screw with the rifle in a horizontal position.  Then carefully turn the rifle upside down and see if the barreld action falls out easily or might it be somewhat stuck in the barrel channel... I am banking there is sticky point in the stock... If not, if it comes out smoothly everything should be good to go...

[danderson]

My wife thinks I got something going on out in the garage, keep going out and tinkering with the ML, really just another excuse to get a cold beverage.

[danderson]

I pulled the lug screw out and literal had to pry the barrel out of the stock, it was stuck pretty well, put it back in tightened it up and removed it and it stuck again, so I'm thinking I need to shim the lug to get some clearance.

[Sabotloader]

I pulled the lug screw out and literal had to pry the barrel out of the stock, it was stuck pretty well, put it back in tightened it up and removed it and it stuck again, so I'm thinking I need to shim the lug to get some clearance.

I was pretty sure that would be the case when you said no movement at all.

Next part... Take the barrel out again and set it aside and with a good light, and for me I would need to put my glasses on, look along both sides of the stock in the barrel channel and see if you can find where the channel has been polished to a brighter smoother area than the surrounding area.  Normally if you have shot the rifle enough the barrel polishes the channel where it rubs the worst.  Those area will need to be sanded out to reduce their grab on the barrel.

If you can not find any polished spots put the barrel back in the stock (do not put the screw in) and start sqeezing the barrel by hand to see if you can locate the spot that it hangs up.  That will also show you where you might need to sand.

If you do not have one of those little teflon cutting boards you can use an aluminum beverage can to make shims.  The cut great with a pare of scissors.  It will take two or three layers of aluminum to equal the thickness of a teflon cutting board.  Remember this will work to lift the action but it inot the bust long range plan.  Sanding the barrel channel out is the best... Does not have to float - just not stick..

[teanawayslayer]

Dave, you ever get that gun shooting straight?

[danderson]

I got the barrel floated like Sabotloader explained, had to sand a few places in the stock, and shimmed the lug, a dollar bill slides through without hanging up, I cant get up to my shooting range yet because of the snow wont be long. I still have to get some ammo

[Bunny Thumper]

Thinking about buying a knight bighorn and am trying to decide on fiber optics or a peep site. What do you guys prefer and why?

[Wacenturion]

Williams peep.......