Broad head tuning?

[Fowlweather25]

How the heck do I do this? Shooting 100 grn. G5 montecs. Can't figure it out. Shooting great with field tips not so much with broadheads.

Help!

[Button Nubbs]

There was a great thread on archerytalk about it. With some searching you should be able to find it.

[Button Nubbs]

Here you go http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460

[Fowlweather25]

Thanks partner!

[Fowlweather25]

So does broadheads/fetching alignment matter?

[Smossy]

So does broadheads/fetching alignment matter?

Nope. Some will argue but its just a matter of look. I actually like my heads offset with my fletching, looks more appealing to me.

[Fowlweather25]

Cool, thanks a ton!

[grousetracker]

lining up your vanes isnt required with the modern broadheads, but i still index my arrows so if there is a problem with flight thats not the problem. move your rest for tuning and be sure to mark it with white out if your broadheads dont match the fieldpoints. goodluck and happy hunting!

[earlmarne]

i was just tweaking my rest today doing some broadhead tuning.
its really simple.just move your rest towards where the broadhead impact untill they group with your field points.or you can use your cables if you have a yoke split in em.

[D-Rock425]

I spin mine on a dial indicated and diail them in so arrow and broadhead run true together.

[dkecoleman]

This might help a little.

www.eastonarchery.com/img/downloads/software/tuning_guide.pdf

[sakoshooter]

Even after doing everything I've read, my broadheads still do not fly exactly with my field points so I simply make a small sight adjustment prior to hunting season. Could I be doing something wrong? Yes, but haven't been able to figure it out in quite a few attempts. I can get within an inch or two of each other. The broadhead test results that was shown in Bowhunter mag a couple issues ago showed the same thing and those were all shot from a Hooter Shooter.

[Taco280AI]

I've never worried about broadhead/fletching alignment, I just adjust my rest to get BHs hitting the same as FPs.

[Smossy]

Even after doing everything I've read, my broadheads still do not fly exactly with my field points so I simply make a small sight adjustment prior to hunting season. Could I be doing something wrong? Yes, but haven't been able to figure it out in quite a few attempts. I can get within an inch or two of each other. The broadhead test results that was shown in Bowhunter mag a couple issues ago showed the same thing and those were all shot from a Hooter Shooter.

Radsav told me if this happens, Number all your arrows, and find out what ones actually fly outside the group. Usually it will be specific arrows, Then just take those and rotate your nock 120 degrees.
Quote from him "Those arrows may have a weak or stiff SPLINE the others do not have.  By rotating the nock you might be able to get the spline orientation at a point where it groups with the others.  Works most of the time, but not always."

[hogslayer]

I was having the same problem.  I switched BH's from 4 to 3 blade and it worked itself out.  Did you role your arrows to see which ones were not wobbling? 

[sakoshooter]

I've gone thru a dozen a few times and every one shot exactly the same. Beman ICS Hunters in 340. Tried 400's too. Switched this year to Easton Axis 340's. They're shooting broadheads closer than the Bemans ever did and maybe right on based on my last few shots.

[RadSav]

I've gone thru a dozen a few times and every one shot exactly the same. Beman ICS Hunters in 340. Tried 400's too. Switched this year to Easton Axis 340's. They're shooting broadheads closer than the Bemans ever did and maybe right on based on my last few shots.

I find this quite common with carbon arrows.  I think fall away rests compound the issue a little bit as well.  It is my belief that the spine options with carbon are just too broad to accommodate every head, bow and archer as it was never an issue with all the aluminum spine choices.  I used to set my bow for middle poundage and adjust poundage up or down until I got the spine just right to group broadheads and field points.  It worked, but what a pain in the buttocks.  These days I use a micro gang adjustment sight and just count clicks.  I sight in for broadheads and then if I wish to shoot field points I have a click number written on the bow.  I move the sight a certain number of clicks left or right and field points are sighted in.  I never shoot fieldpoints during season so never a problem.

[Fowlweather25]

Radsav, what sight do you use?

[sakoshooter]

I've gone thru a dozen a few times and every one shot exactly the same. Beman ICS Hunters in 340. Tried 400's too. Switched this year to Easton Axis 340's. They're shooting broadheads closer than the Bemans ever did and maybe right on based on my last few shots.

I find this quite common with carbon arrows.  I think fall away rests compound the issue a little bit as well.  It is my belief that the spine options with carbon are just too broad to accommodate every head, bow and archer as it was never an issue with all the aluminum spine choices.  I used to set my bow for middle poundage and adjust poundage up or down until I got the spine just right to group broadheads and field points.  It worked, but what a pain in the buttocks.  These days I use a micro gang adjustment sight and just count clicks.  I sight in for broadheads and then if I wish to shoot field points I have a click number written on the bow.  I move the sight a certain number of clicks left or right and field points are sighted in.  I never shoot fieldpoints during season so never a problem.

Radsav,
That's pretty much what I've been doing the last couple years with my new setup. Micro adjustable but no clicks. I just make a small gang adjustment for broadheads realizing that my field pts will be off by a couple of inches. No problem during season.

[Fullabull]

That Eastman Tuning guide should really help get your bow tunes well. One thing it does not talk about is squaring the end of your arrow shafts. You can save a lot of arrows from the target arrow pile by doing this and increase you accuracy.

If you do a lot of shooting the ends of  your arrow shafts take a beating and loose the flat square shape. If you spin you arrows (with a broad head on ) and there is wobble it is most likely due to the shaft ends not being square. Use a squaring tool to get them as square as possible, you will see a major difference in how they spin and it will help bring those arrows together once your bow is fine tuned.

[yakimarcher]

Check this out on youtube Bow Tuning Tips / Broadhead Tuning

[RadSav]

Check this out on youtube

Use some common sense while tuning this way.  If you have to move the rest to a point your arrow is no where near center you've got some issues other than simple rest adjustment issues.  This technique is for arrows that are perfectly spined for the bow and using a bow with perfect cam timing.  These should be very minor adjustments.  If it seems like a lot you probably have other issues to deal with before using this technique.  When the bow and arrows are right it really is a great way to tune the bow.

[Fowlweather25]

Aligned my broadheads with my fletchings now I'm slappin shafts up to forty yards! now I just gotta set the 50 and 60 yard pins and I'm ready for my Texas hog hunt in two weeks! Thanks for all the help guys!