Has anyone climbed Mt Baker?

[Rob]

My buddies and I are trying to plan a climb.  Looking for any pointers or advice.

We are in the process of learning the basics of roping up, etc.  Practicing once a week and continuing our conditioning hikes

We have done Mt St Helens 4-5 times in the past couple years including a late Spring Climb and just recently got up Adams.

Our goal in Mt Rainer next year and we are thinking Baker is our next stepping stone.

[6x6in6]

Pm ShaneVG.  He knows that country like the back of his hand.

[Knocker of rocks]

Much different than Mount St Helens.  Both sides have major glaciers to cross, with crevasse falls always a potential.  When I climbed it in 1977, we had a snow bridge collapse and a member took a 40' fall.  It was quite the project to get him out.

Rainier is potentially less complicated because you have RMI shoveling their trench to the top

[boneaddict]

I never really noticed that I never really hear of anyone climbing Baker.   Hood, Rainier seem to be tops, with Adams and Helens being just glorified hikes.   hmmmmmmm

[JLS]

A couple of my climbing buddies did it, and loved it.  It's not a climb for novices, make sure someone has some good experience with ropes, rescue techniques, etc. 

[Rob]

Much different than Mount St Helens.  Both sides have major glaciers to cross, with crevasse falls always a potential.  When I climbed it in 1977, we had a snow bridge collapse and a member took a 40' fall.  It was quite the project to get him out.

Rainier is potentially less complicated because you have RMI shoveling their trench to the top

what time of year did you do your climb?

[JLS]

I never really noticed that I never really hear of anyone climbing Baker.   Hood, Rainier seem to be tops, with Adams and Helens being just glorified hikes.   hmmmmmmm

The northwest side of Adams is a much more technical climb than the south approach.

[netcoyote]

Climbed it several times in the early '90's. Several times by the Roman Wall route and once a technical ice climb on the North Ridge. It's nothing like St Helens. Adams is a good conditioner and Rainier is higher and a bit more technically challenging, depending on the route, of course.

You really do need to be aware of rope techniques and crevasse rescue  if you go on the "standard route" of Roman Wall via Heliotrope Ridge because you will be crossing glaciers. Don't just read about the techniques in a book, actually go throiugh scenarios with the people you will be climbing with. Travel in rope teams of 2 or 3. Don't try it solo. You didn't mention a schedule but I wouldn't advise trying Baker this late in the season if you are not experienced with glacier travel. Crevasses can get pretty large this time of year and some routes may require ice travel to navigate around crevasses.

I remember coming back from a Baker climb on time and seeing what appeared to be a glissade chute that went right down over the edge of a crevasse. I looked over the edge to about a 100 ft deep crack but saw no evidence that anyone had gone in. Don't be tempted to glissade a glacier...EVER. Way too risky.

Watch for possible rock or icefall near the Black Buttes. Watch the weather both the prior week (so you know what the snow conditions are likely to be) and the forcast for the next few days. June/July is probably the best time to climb as far as weather and snow conditions. Don't climb into a whiteout.

Be careful and have fun!

[Rob]

We are planning full simulations for arrests, self rescue and assisted rescue. 

Our MO for climbs has been to pick a couple weekends and then watch the Wx.  if it not good then we cancel.

What we may do is take a walk up the Mt and if it looks dicey turn our climb.  that will at least get us some exposure as to what to expect. 

We would want to go for the least techncial assult on the summit.

Great input everyone, love to hear more.

[Knocker of rocks]

Much different than Mount St Helens.  Both sides have major glaciers to cross, with crevasse falls always a potential.  When I climbed it in 1977, we had a snow bridge collapse and a member took a 40' fall.  It was quite the project to get him out.

Rainier is potentially less complicated because you have RMI shoveling their trench to the top

what time of year did you do your climb?

Did the North Ridge in June and the Coleman Headwall in January

[boneaddict]

Do you have to be permitted in order to climb?   

[Knocker of rocks]

Just a camping permit at the trailhead

[Knocker of rocks]

The northwest side of Adams is a much more technical climb than the south approach.

That looks like the Adams Glacier

[JLS]

The northwest side of Adams is a much more technical climb than the south approach.

That looks like the Adams Glacier

Yep

[Rob]

I think that is what he was saying.

Photo is titled Adams too.

Here is one from Adams near the summit on the East side.  sulfer fumes were coming out of the crevasse which was cool.