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I reload for mine in 6.8 spc. Never had any problems. Just make sure you measure and trim your cases, they will stick if not correctly sized. Only other issue is OAL for putting rounds into mags.Shayne
The main thing I've found with .223 cases is to trim them constantly. I've never seen cases "grow" as much as .223/5.56 cases do. I've gotten into the habit of trimming all my cases, because some are mine, and some I've picked up. Some guys get a special Swager to remove the primer pocket crimp in some cases. Me, I just use a countersink bit in my cordless drill to remove the crimp. A quick buzz and it's done. I used to think I was being an animal doing this, but I looked at some of the Black Hills reloads, and some of them are chamfered so deeply I don't know how the primer stays in! I've always full-length resized my AR brass. .223 cases are so plentiful that it doesn't really matter to me if the case life is shorter. I always find more than I lose anyway. I use Ramshot Xterminator for bullets up to 55 grain, and Tac for heavier bullets. That IMR 8208 XBR might be good too, but I've not tried it in my .223s. In my 20 LBC and 6mmX6.8 SPC it's great! I've got to get on the IMR (Hodgedon) site and get the latest load data for it. There's more now than there was when it was newly reintroduced. When I started reloading for my .17 Fireball, all the data said that IMR 4198 was the powder that gave the best accuracy in that round, and after trying several powders, I found that they were right!
ALLRIGHT STOP!NOBODY MOVE!.........What is 6mmx6.8? Who? and are reamers available?Quote from: Heredoggydoggy on September 23, 2013, 09:51:48 PMThe main thing I've found with .223 cases is to trim them constantly. I've never seen cases "grow" as much as .223/5.56 cases do. I've gotten into the habit of trimming all my cases, because some are mine, and some I've picked up. Some guys get a special Swager to remove the primer pocket crimp in some cases. Me, I just use a countersink bit in my cordless drill to remove the crimp. A quick buzz and it's done. I used to think I was being an animal doing this, but I looked at some of the Black Hills reloads, and some of them are chamfered so deeply I don't know how the primer stays in! I've always full-length resized my AR brass. .223 cases are so plentiful that it doesn't really matter to me if the case life is shorter. I always find more than I lose anyway. I use Ramshot Xterminator for bullets up to 55 grain, and Tac for heavier bullets. That IMR 8208 XBR might be good too, but I've not tried it in my .223s. In my 20 LBC and 6mmX6.8 SPC it's great! I've got to get on the IMR (Hodgedon) site and get the latest load data for it. There's more now than there was when it was newly reintroduced. When I started reloading for my .17 Fireball, all the data said that IMR 4198 was the powder that gave the best accuracy in that round, and after trying several powders, I found that they were right!
How important is cup pressure in the ar's for cycling.better to be higher or lower?
You might also look into mag primers for the thicker walls. To lessen the chance of slam fires.
Quote from: Blacklab on September 25, 2013, 09:28:21 PM You might also look into mag primers for the thicker walls. To lessen the chance of slam fires. I've never had a slam fire. Shot many rounds with CCI and Wolf primers. Sometimes get a mark in the primer of an unfired chambered round due to the "floating firing pin", but oddly enough, never a slam fire. I've seen the #41 primers that are designed for the AR but haven't used any. They probably have an extra thick primer cup.
no slams yet but did have one jam (sideways)crushed the case and when mag emptied bolt stayed forward.this did not happen when firing hornady 55gr. vmax.what would you say the prob. may be?
Quote from: stevemiller on September 26, 2013, 10:29:34 PMno slams yet but did have one jam (sideways)crushed the case and when mag emptied bolt stayed forward.this did not happen when firing hornady 55gr. vmax.what would you say the prob. may be? Not enough pressure to make the bolt carrier/bolt go back far enough to eject the empty and activate the lockback. The .223 was designed around the 55 grain bullet.
I've heard that the pressures are higher in the military 5.56 ammo to make sure they cycle the action in an AR type gun in battle. I load for accuracy, and that's usually about the middle of the load table. Even loads at the bottom of the load table have never failed to cycle in my AR rifles.
I use 26 gr varget with 60gr hornadySP and get Awesome groups. I always FL resize and check case length. lC brass, win SR primers, varget, hdy SP , loaded to .010 under mag length and I get this
I have some Sierra 107 grain bullets, some Speer 85 grainers, and Barnes 62 grain Varmint Grenades, but haven't tried any of them yet. You can get the barrel in 1 in 10 or 1 in 9 twist. I specified 1 in 9, so it should stabilize the heavier bullets OK. If it does, I may snap up the Berger VLDs at the gun shop...So far, the 58 grain Hornadys with IMR 8208 XBR powder seems to be the ticket!
Quote from: Heredoggydoggy on September 23, 2013, 11:12:16 PMI have some Sierra 107 grain bullets, some Speer 85 grainers, and Barnes 62 grain Varmint Grenades, but haven't tried any of them yet. You can get the barrel in 1 in 10 or 1 in 9 twist. I specified 1 in 9, so it should stabilize the heavier bullets OK. If it does, I may snap up the Berger VLDs at the gun shop...So far, the 58 grain Hornadys with IMR 8208 XBR powder seems to be the ticket!I would not use the heavier bullets with a 1 in 9" twist, max bullet weight for that twist should be 73 gr. You would want a 1 in 7" or faster for anything 90gr and up.I've reloaded a lot for my AR's both 1 in 9 and 1 in 7. I highly recommend the Lee fl die for the AR platform. You also want to stay a couple grains lighter on the powder from max load on a bolt action .223. My best load for 1 in 9" is 55gr Hornady vmax pushed by 24.6 gr of varget, and my best for 1 in 7" twist is a 69gr sierra match king hpbt (not a hunting round) pushed by 25.3 gr of varget. Hope this helps.