Has anyone used one of these bikes to hunt from?

[Labs07]

http://salsacycles.com/bikes/2014_mukluk_3

[Ccortez]

Tag. Was looking at these bikes as well

[D-Rock425]

Someone was talking about these bikes over the weekend.

[klikboom]

What draws you to the giant tires? Do you want them for the suspension of the tire? Are you riding in snow?

[Labs07]

Flotation and getting over rough stuff.  They are a really solid bike.

[fair-chase]

How much more energy is needed to get (and keep) those tires turning???

[fly-by]

Not only are the tires wide, look at those rims!  Together, that'a a lotta mass.  Unless you're hunting on the beach or snow it seems like a real niche product. 

I do like a simple rigid (no front or rear suspension) bike like the Mukluk, but with a normal sized wheelset.  Last year I hunted with a Surly Karate Monkey with super low geared 1x9 drivetrain and 2.25" tires at about 40 psi.  It was a good setup, and I ride it to work every day too.  http://surlybikes.com/bikes/karate_monkey

Surly also makes a fat bike like the Mukluk, called the Pugsley.

Logging roads really don't require a suspension IMO.  If it's rough enough to need a suspension, I'm hiking.

[pianoman9701]

Holy carp! $1750.00. Does it get warm and blonde after dark?

[fish vacuum]

$1750 is at the cheap end for fat bikes. They are surprisingly light weight though.

[dmv9]

What's wrong with a regular (< $1000) mountain bike with paniers for holding stuff? Seems really expensive!

[DRobnsn]

I'd be curious about the weight difference between them and a typical 26" tired rigid bike. They do look darn cool though. For that kind of money you can get into really high end full suspension bikes with lockout shocks for steep climbs or heavy hauling but still have the suspension for trails or really rough terrain. I personally would go ride one before you buy one. For my own use I would most likely end up with a nice ish 26" tired full suspension with lockouts and big hydraulic disc brakes for stopping those long steep downhill haul outs. 

[xXLojackXx]

I'd be curious about the weight difference between them and a typical 26" tired rigid bike. They do look darn cool though. For that kind of money you can get into really high end full suspension bikes with lockout shocks for steep climbs or heavy hauling but still have the suspension for trails or really rough terrain. I personally would go ride one before you buy one. For my own use I would most likely end up with a nice ish 26" tired full suspension with lockouts and big hydraulic disc brakes for stopping those long steep downhill haul outs.

Really high end suspension mtn bikes are $5-10k. $1750 for a decent bike is about right.

[DRobnsn]

I'd be curious about the weight difference between them and a typical 26" tired rigid bike. They do look darn cool though. For that kind of money you can get into really high end full suspension bikes with lockout shocks for steep climbs or heavy hauling but still have the suspension for trails or really rough terrain. I personally would go ride one before you buy one. For my own use I would most likely end up with a nice ish 26" tired full suspension with lockouts and big hydraulic disc brakes for stopping those long steep downhill haul outs.

Really high end suspension mtn bikes are $5-10k. $1750 for a decent bike is about right.

Yep, you can spend 5-10k and more if you prefer. However sometimes it's possible to find used $5k new priced bikes for less than half of the original price. I should have said used in my post, sorry. To me once you go past 2k for a bike you had better be a pretty serious bicycle enthusiast or big into racing them. What you get for your money after the 2k ish point isn't really aimed at the hunting community.

[dreamunelk]

Been giving the Pugsley some serious thought.  Do some searching on the net and you will see that fatbikes do offer some advantages and some disadvantages.   I have test road a couple and found that the ride is much smoother than my older and expensive at the time mountain bike.   Also riding over bigger rocks (you know WEYCO 5/8) is much easier.

[Alchase]

When I hunted with my bike, weight of the bike was the single biggest factor in wearing me out. You will be pushing the bike almost as often as riding. I started with a costco huffy mountain bike. It weighed a ton, and pushing it up hill just plain sucked. Then I bought a used Trex 6000 with suspension and disk brakes. The Trex was 1/2 the weight of the huffy and it made a world of difference. Riding down logging roads with any grade will eat center pull brake pads up. Add the weight of a deer and you maybe in for a serious pucker factor with brakes fading quickly.
BTW, I just sold my Trex last year for $100.00.

[pope]

For most applications, the bike will get you to an area where others don't go simply because there is a locked gate and it's too far to walk. If the journey is flat, any bike will do. If you have to climb, light is right. Typically you'll be riding on a logging/fire road which almost any mountain bike will traverse without problems. To me, the primary considerations are (in this order): good brakes, quality components that will last years and not break in the field, and low weight. I've never been in a situation where a bike with special tires or any other feature would have improved my access or even added enjoyment to the experience. Most obstacles are short-lived and I can just dismount and push for a short section. The only sustained obstacles I've encountered are hills, and your best friend on a long hill is a light-weight, hard-tail bike with a quick-release seat post clamp so you can elevate the seat and stretch your legs for climbing.

You also should consider what you will do to illuminate the approach, since most hunters get going early. Instead of bike lights, I purchased a rescue-grade headlamp, the Black Diamond Icon. On full power it's plenty bright but the intensity is also adjustable and it has "nigh-vision" red for the final approach to your stand.

Another consideration is game transport and how to haul in equipment like tree stands. I get set up before the season by pulling a trailer with stands and climbing sticks, then I stash the trailer in the woods for the season. If I get something down, the trailer is ready and I don't have to attach racks/bags to the bike so my morning approach is fast and light.

I think it's great if you have $5k-$10k to spend on a bike but I'm not sure it's money well spent. If you race bikes, that's a different story. But when it gets to a point where you have to spend an additional $1000 to shave one more pound off the bike, consider taking a dump before you climb that hill. You just saved $1000.

[pianoman9701]

I can certainly see the value in a lightweight bike with great brakes and components. For the money, however, I'm going to have to be satisfied with my garage sale special.

[pope]

I can certainly see the value in a lightweight bike with great brakes and components. For the money, however, I'm going to have to be satisfied with my garage sale special.

There's nothing wrong with that! In fact, you can definitely get more bike for your money if you buy used. If you hunt with the bike, it's going to sit out in the rain all day so save your money and buy second hand.

[RClare1223]

One thing to consider in tire size is that a 29" tire will go over bigger rocks in the road easier than a 26". Ive seen a 3" rock cause a guy to wipe out with 26" tires where my 29" goes over just fine. And just because you go to a 29" tire does not mean you have to have a fat tire bike. Also 29" tire carry more momentum than a 26". And with double wall wheels they weigh less than the older 26". I just bought a new Norco with disc brakes thumb shifters 29" tires and paid under $500 for it and it weighs less than my old trek 26". Also just got my wife a new nishiki 29" with disc brakes and thumb shifters for $400. If you do your research you dont have to spend any where near $1000 for a good bike.

[Noiro]

You also should consider what you will do to illuminate the approach, since most hunters get going early. Instead of bike lights, I purchased a rescue-grade headlamp, the Black Diamond Icon. On full power it's plenty bright but the intensity is also adjustable and it has "nigh-vision" red for the final approach to your stand.

Thanks for the Black Diamond Icon info. I have been looking for a good headlamp.