Remington 700 Long Range 300 Win. Mag

[Biggerhammer]

If your looking for a extended range load. I pull a zero at 100 yards and after that all my load development is done at 300 yards and out. Over years of long range load development especially with the heavier and VLD type bullets with magnums. 100 yards groups usualy don't give dependable results as to how they will perform at distance. I've had several .300 Win mags that shoot half MOA at 300 yards but with the same load deliver 1" or slightly larger groups at 100 yards. So I don't waste the powder and bullets anymore, with most rifles I start at 300 yards and then take it out further. 

[lablover]

Biggerhammer,

The next step I will take is to load somewhere around the .6" load since they had similar points of impact and the test at 200. I've never tried the load development at longer range simply because I have never thought of it. Most reloading and accuracy books all base it off of 100 yard scenarios. I'm familiar with bullet stabilization changes at different points in flight depending on the bullet and its style. I've never really taken that into consideration when developing a load. If this load that I just came up with doesn't work, I may try doing so at 300.

Cboom,

No offense taken. Really I look at it as taking out some of the human error because I know I'm not a top tier marksman. I don't shoot from a lead sled when I do these so there is a lot more human error that can occur. To be honest, I've always done it this way. Believe me, I know there are FAR more intelligent people in this area than I, but this has always worked for me and my methods have consistently brought To accurately hitting 1000 yard targets.

[kbrowne14]

My rifle is still at Benchmark Barrels.  They called me and told me that they have the muzzle brake on, however, the slam fire issue was due to my bolt or something being too far out of spec.  They said that the only thing that would fix it right without cause a bad trigger pull would be to replace the bolt with a PTG bolt.  Which is 300 dollars.  Damn.  What to do?

[Firedogg]

  Have you double checked to make sure the warranty work from Remington was actually done?  Sure sounds a lot like tbe problem they were supposed to fix getting slam fires.

[kbrowne14]

The gun was sent to remington before I bought it.  I then bought a timney trigger anyway because I didn't like the xmp trigger.  The timney should have fixed the issue.

[Firedogg]

I'd still check to make sure the work was actually done. You wouldn't be the first guy who was told something that's not true. If I remember right there is a link somewhere where you can enter the serial number to check.

I am also a believer in holding the forend of the rifle when shooting to control the muzzle flip, especially on the .300 with the jump it gives. Seeing your video of you shooting that was the first thought in my mind. Watching the link to the article posted confirmed reasons why I like it. It's the way I shoot my Browning and I am right at .75 groups with Remington 180grn factory loads.

[thinkingman]

My rifle is still at Benchmark Barrels.  They called me and told me that they have the muzzle brake on, however, the slam fire issue was due to my bolt or something being too far out of spec.  They said that the only thing that would fix it right without cause a bad trigger pull would be to replace the bolt with a PTG bolt.  Which is 300 dollars.  Damn.  What to do?

That sucks. I'm sorry you are in that situation.
This is why I tell anyone who will listen that a Rem 700 project is a crapshoot at best.
Best of luck.

[kbrowne14]

8/1/15-  I got my gun back from benchmark.  I had a miller brake put on it and they put a ptg fluted bolt in becuase the factory bolt was out of spec.  The bolt is a little sticky, I am told that it will loosen up.  I took it out shooting at 100 m, this thing kicks like a light .308 load.  It is beautiful.  I started out with a caldwell bipod, 9-13 inch, and I got terrible groups, I was fighting it.  I switched to a 6-9 Harris, and my groups immediately shrunk.  They went from 2.5" or bigger, to a solid 1.5" consistantly, something that has yet to happen with this gun and I.  I know 1.5" is nothing to brag about, but this is the first time this gun showed consistency.  I shot a 1.5" 3 shot group about 8 times in a row after I switched bipods.    I have never really worked up a good load, I haven't had time, so I have been shooting someone elses load.  I am confident that when I develop a load, I will have it down below 1". 

[ELKBURGER]

Thanks for the update. Glad you finally got it back. I am considering a brake and bipod for mine. I will stay away from the 13". Take the time to work up a load. It sounds like it will come together.

[kbrowne14]

i went out shooting on Labor day weekend.  Started a new h1000 ladder test from scratch.  I wasn't able to get the gun to shoot to save my life.  1.5 to 2 inch groups, no matter what i did, or who shot it.  I almost threw the gun away.  Instead, I decided I would try out H4831 wit the same 200 gr. Nosler Accubond.  I did a ladder test from 67.5 grains to 70 grains.  The bullet was seated to 3.550.  That puts my bullet about .015 off the lands.  My ladder test was 6 shots per load, .5 increments starting at 67.5.  I fired 2, 3 shot groups per load.  Right off the bat, 67.5 was at 3/4".  Both Groups.  Next up, 68 grains.  1 group was right at .5", the next was about 1 1/16.  I pulled one shot slight left when I rushed the trigger.  Next up was 68.5 gr.  I pulled 2 shots in both groups, but rushing the trigger.  1 group was 1 1/8", the other was 1 1/4".  I do know that jerked the trigger.  I took a break after this, because I was screwing up.  After the break, I continued with 69 grains.  First Group, was 3/8".  Next Group, I was getting scope eye, but still did 1".  This is where Things started falling apart. At 69.5 grains, my target started falling over after my first 2 shots which were 3/4" apart, I didn't notice the extreme target lean and the next shot hit 1.5 inches low.  The next group after I put up the target was 1", and I think I screwed it up a bit.  When I jumped up to 70 grains, I was right around 1 1/8".  I decided to chrony the next group at 70 grains using a magneto speed.  First shot, 2892 fps. Shot #2, 2887.  Shot #3, 2895.  On that group, it was 3/4". 

I have never had this kind of consistency with this gun.  I am really excited right now.  And all it took was a different powder.  I feel kind of dumb now.  I can really say now, this gun is a shooter.  For whatever reason, this gun did not like the 200 AB with H1000 combo.  It hated the h1000.  But I'm glad I figured it out.  I still have to fine tune this load, and have more tests to do, but I know that I can shoot it and it can hold sub moa.  That's all I want.  I don't need a .25 moa gun.  I just need it to be MOA or better.  And it will do that.  I hope this has been helpful for anyone that has considered buying one.  these were the problems that I encountered.  Some of them, my fault, like not doing proper load development and trying to force the powder I had on hand, some of them, like the bolt being out spec, the guns fault.  But it all came together.   

[Taco280AI]

I've been there with the frustrations of a gun just not shooting. Briefly had an XCR II 7RM that wouldn't shoot any ammo I put in it. Don't remember what it shot, but it was maybe 2" groups. That one I didn't give a chance to do better, after several different loads it was gone.

Is great when you finally do get the groups you're wanting, makes range sessions enjoyable.

[kbrowne14]

I have been shooting it a lot lately, I now have about 500 rounds through the gun.  For my target rounds, I have settled on the 208 A-MAX, 69 grains H4831 SC, COAL: 3.600, and CCI 250 primers.  This load consistently shoots around 3/4" groups.  Some tighter, some a little sloppier, but 3/4 is my average.  I have been doing most of my shooting at around 500 yards and further.  The gun, bullet, and sometimes the shooter did their job.  This really is a long range shooter.  The only issue I have had with it is a failure to feed correctly.  When I load the mag full, I can close the bolt and it picks up a round.  I shoot it, and when I go to eject the round out, the round will eject, but the next round pops out of the magazine.  So when I send the bolt forward again, it tries to pick up the round in the magazine as well as the loose round on top.  This creates a double feed.  I can eject the round slowly and it doesn't happen and then I can chamber the next, shoot, and eject the next round hard with no issues.  It only happens on the second round.  I took it to the 2016 sportsman's challenge and competed with it on targets out 900 meters.  I didn't have any issues with loading, I'm not sure why , but the gun functioned flawlessly.

All in all, to be honest, I had to put a lot of work into this gun.  The trigger, the bolt, the muzzle brake, this isn't a $700 rifle any more.  I needed a gun that I can take hunting, shoot long range with, and do some precision competitions with.  I also needed the 300 win mag.  This does fit the bill, but I think a sendero might be a better choice.  I would still need a trigger and a brake, but I don't think I would need a new bolt.  I think the quality would be a little better in the sendero.  I don't think that I would buy this gun again.  It shoots now, it works now, but it really has been a pain.  This gun can be a steal if you don't have the problems I did, but you run the risk.  I think they can all be made to shoot accurately, but it may take more work than other guns.  This will be my last update in this thread, I feel that 500 rounds through it should display majority of its strengths and weaknesses.  I hope this has been helpful.

[ELKBURGER]

Thanks for all your candid updates and reviews of your rifle. It sounds like you gave beyond the benefit of the doubt and gave plenty of time to pull it together. I'm glad you are getting close to what you wanted but see that Remington's base rifle flaws were a lot to overcome.

With that said.......

What would you suggest for a stock Remmy ADL? I will do a Timney and my own glass bed, but what stock, barrel and brake should be considered to make mine a LR gun?

Thanks

[YukonHunter]

One of the biggest flaws with the Remington rifles nowadays is the recoil lug.  The stock triggers suck.  The actions need tuned up a little but then they are just fine. Myself and two buddies just completed three Remington builds and they turned out very nice.

[kbrowne14]

I would say the best bang for the buck is going to be HS precision.  I like HS Precision over bell and Carlson, I like the feel better in the HS.  There are for sure, better stocks out there, like manners, McMillan, or chassis.  I have a B&C, its does its job, but I think Quality Control is a little higher in HS.  Muzzle brake, I went with Benchmark Barrel's Miller Brake.  I can shoot my 300 win mag all day long and not complain. 

I would give your barreled action to Benchmark, have them true it, and put on a medium palma barrel, and thread on a brake.  Benchmark is a great company.  I shot a 6.5 creedmoor this weekend they put together in that config. and it shot great.  A medium palma is heavy enough to stay rigid with repeated firing, but light enough to move it around when you need it.

Honestly though, if you bought or have a stock that is rigid enough and just put good glass on it, you can shoot long range.  You don't need a 1/2 minute gun to shot long, you need a 1 minute gun or better.  Most R700's are capable of that.  Buy glass,ammo and shoot.