What spine would you recommend?

[HillSlick]

Hey everyone,

I'm shooting a 60" Bear Super Kodiak it's 63.5 lbs at my 31.5" draw length, I'm currently shooting full length 400 spine gold tip expedition hunters, with 100 gr tips,

I'd like to use a heavier arrow to improve my energy at impact, what spine and tip weight would you recommend?

As always hope you are all doing well,


-"Progress once meant hope for the future, now it will destroy it."

[RadSav]

You're shooting a 60" Bear recurve at 31.5" draw length!!  That wall must be un-Bear-able!   That bow wasn't really meant to be drawn to that length.  Got to be crazy hard to get that extra 1.5", I imagine!


With that draw length and poundage from a recurve you should stop using the 400 spine arrows immediately.  That is some seriously dangerous stuff right there.  Proper spine in that length arrow and draw length would be around a 300 spine. 

This is one of the few times I ever suggest bare shaft testing.  If it were me I'd probably go with the FMJ 300.  I'd then start at full length and bare shaft tune trimming incrementally 1/4" off the nock end until the shaft started impacting center or left slightly (right handed).  You will likely want either a heavy point or a heavy insert to get your combined point and insert weight up around 150 to 160 grains.  Assuming you are shooting 5" feathers.

I would also not recommend buying too many of those shafts at first.  Two or three just to see how it tunes as it is possible you may need to go weaker in the 340 or stiffer in the Dangerous Game shaft at 250 spine to get your point of aim/tune dialed in.  Really all depends on how well those 'curves are loading at that length draw.

Might not be a bad idea to call Three Rivers Archery and ask to speak with a long draw specialist.  Probably no one there 6'5" tall, but should be someone there who is really good with archers of your size.

[HillSlick]

Thanks RadSav,  you the man, I will call them up.


-"Progress once meant hope for the future, now it will destroy it."

[HillSlick]

You're shooting a 60" Bear recurve at 31.5" draw length!!  That wall must be un-Bear-able!   That bow wasn't really meant to be drawn to that length.  Got to be crazy hard to get that extra 1.5", I imagine!


With that draw length and poundage from a recurve you should stop using the 400 spine arrows immediately.  That is some seriously dangerous stuff right there.  Proper spine in that length arrow and draw length would be around a 300 spine. 

This is one of the few times I ever suggest bare shaft testing.  If it were me I'd probably go with the FMJ 300.  I'd then start at full length and bare shaft tune trimming incrementally 1/4" off the nock end until the shaft started impacting center or left slightly (right handed).  You will likely want either a heavy point or a heavy insert to get your combined point and insert weight up around 150 to 160 grains.  Assuming you are shooting 5" feathers.

I would also not recommend buying too many of those shafts at first.  Two or three just to see how it tunes as it is possible you may need to go weaker in the 340 or stiffer in the Dangerous Game shaft at 250 spine to get your point of aim/tune dialed in.  Really all depends on how well those 'curves are loading at that length draw.

Might not be a bad idea to call Three Rivers Archery and ask to speak with a long draw specialist.  Probably no one there 6'5" tall, but should be someone there who is really good with archers of your size.

I have a dozen new 300 spine gold tip traditional hunters that I recently bought as part of this venture. I didn't really want to buy a full dozen but under the circumstances that were I ended up buying the whole damn dozen. I also bought 125 grain tips to go with them.

Since Larry retired (good for him) there really isn't anyone that knows ANYTHING about traditional archery an the people at Sportco make me nervous lol, 


-"Progress once meant hope for the future, now it will destroy it."

[RadSav]

Bare shaft tuning with all carbon can get expensive.  But, you can go about it the same way.  Full length and then trim from the back in small increments.  It's too bad they don't make a slip on wrap with feathers so you could just tune for POI fletched.  Of course you can fletch, shoot, group, strip, trim and repeat.  I like doing it that way, but it gets really expensive if you don't find the magic spot right away.

[quadrafire]

and hard if you don't have a cut off saw

[RadSav]

If need be a dremel tool, a diamond wheel, a few hose clamps, a c-clamp and some plywood works fine on all carbon arrows   Price of both Cabela's and Apple cutoff saws are getting pretty good.  For the average guy you don't need a $500 saw to cut a few dozen arrows per year.

[quadrafire]

I've thought of building a jig for the dremel

[RadSav]

Works surprisingly well on all carbon arrows.  You sometimes have to cut twice since you can't have too much arrow extending past the blade but that is easy enough.