Free: Contests & Raffles.
Tuning A Bow - by Danny RowanFirst, when I get a new bow I put the string on and get my brace set correctly. Now my instructions are for a modern recurve or longbow, not a self bow so remember that. Once I have the brace set I leave the bow strung for 24 hours to let the string streach in,don't matter the string material, let it streach in first, then reset your brace and you should be ready to go. Now I use my bow scale and a ruler to get a starting nock point and use a small piece of masking tape to mark it.Now the arrows. I do not bare shaft or paper tune, too confusing. Here is how I determine a starting point. I take the bow weight, lets say 60#, now for every inch of draw over the standard amo of 26 I add 5#, so for my 28 inch draw that would leave me with 70# of spine,if the bow is using ff type material I add another 5# which brings us to 75# of spine. Now if I am using a point above 145gr. I add another 5# so now I have a spine of 80# with and arrow of 28 1/2" BOP. I have found that with my draw and the weight I shoot, 80# is my spine on all of my bows.I take 6 arrows of the corecct spine and I shoot three at a time watching my arrow flight for any wobble. After the first three arrows I adjust my nock up or down depending on what I see (now I normally set my nock at 9/16 above center as I have been doing this a long time and have found that on almost all bows this is my optimum nock point for my style.) Once you find yours then you can start there on every bow you shoot and you will probably find you do not need much adjustment. Anyway, shoot three arrows in a set and adjust untill you have straight arrow flight.I then put on the correct weight broadhead and shoot a little more to make sure.Works very well for me. Hope some of you can use this or add to it as you wish.