Best Point and shoot camera?

[kentrek]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U5LKQEE/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3M2C4KT21NPMJZWS04BX


Here's just the first one I found

I really like the idea of juSt using the Bluetooth lenses and flash devices for the phone for a light weight set up but am skeptical of picture quality and don't wana sacrifice the funds atm to find out

[Bean Counter]

Your cell trophy kill photos, and most every outdoor touristy photo on Facebook, from your iphone suck because you don't have enough flash. Its counter intuitive, but one of the secrets to making images that stand out: the brighter the ambient daylight is, the MORE flash power you need to properly expose a subject. Getting a pocket camera wont fix this over your iphone. If you want good trophy shot pics and are willing to carry some thing in the truck in addition to your camera phone, get a  used 10 year old DSLR for $75 and a cheap off brand speedlight for $50. Lighting is E-V-E-R-Y-T-H-I-N-G in photography. More than resolution, more than sensor size (full frame vs crop), etc. Set the camera to base ISO (usually ISO 100), go up to your max flash sync speed (usually 1/160-1/200), and set around f/8-f/11. Chimp your flash exposure in, salt and pepper to taste.

  This is intereating.  I've been digging around and most things I read are saying even a simple point and shoot is gonna give you better printed pictures than a cell phone.  I've been very unhappy with the quality of printed pics I get off my cell phone.  I'm a backpack hunter so the dslr is a no go

Then the best thing you can do is to drag your deer to a shaded area and not do the trophy shot backlit in sunlight. Clean, even dark shade like trees or a hillside without the sky visible in the background. At that point, the size of the sensor will be the biggest determinant of image quality as 12 megapixels on a full frame sensor will give you more dynamic range (ergo greater signal-to-noise ratio ergo more shadow recovery) than 12 megapixels on your cell phone or p-n-s.

There are some pocket cameras that have a hotshoe for a dedicated flash head. Perhaps a good compromise would be a smaller dedicated flash unit like a Canon EX 270 or the Nikon SB-400. These are weaker than a real speedlight so get close as possible to minimize light falloff (law of inverse squares). You'll need to belt it out at full power and so you wont get a lot of exposures on one set of batteries.  So get your ambient exposure correct with the camera alone before turning the flash head on and trying to do two things at once 

[Karl Blanchard]

Your cell trophy kill photos, and most every outdoor touristy photo on Facebook, from your iphone suck because you don't have enough flash. Its counter intuitive, but one of the secrets to making images that stand out: the brighter the ambient daylight is, the MORE flash power you need to properly expose a subject. Getting a pocket camera wont fix this over your iphone. If you want good trophy shot pics and are willing to carry some thing in the truck in addition to your camera phone, get a  used 10 year old DSLR for $75 and a cheap off brand speedlight for $50. Lighting is E-V-E-R-Y-T-H-I-N-G in photography. More than resolution, more than sensor size (full frame vs crop), etc. Set the camera to base ISO (usually ISO 100), go up to your max flash sync speed (usually 1/160-1/200), and set around f/8-f/11. Chimp your flash exposure in, salt and pepper to taste.

  This is intereating.  I've been digging around and most things I read are saying even a simple point and shoot is gonna give you better printed pictures than a cell phone.  I've been very unhappy with the quality of printed pics I get off my cell phone.  I'm a backpack hunter so the dslr is a no go

Then the best thing you can do is to drag your deer to a shaded area and not do the trophy shot backlit in sunlight. Clean, even dark shade like trees or a hillside without the sky visible in the background. At that point, the size of the sensor will be the biggest determinant of image quality as 12 megapixels on a full frame sensor will give you more dynamic range (ergo greater signal-to-noise ratio ergo more shadow recovery) than 12 megapixels on your cell phone or p-n-s.

There are some pocket cameras that have a hotshoe for a dedicated flash head. Perhaps a good compromise would be a smaller dedicated flash unit like a Canon EX 270 or the Nikon SB-400. These are weaker than a real speedlight so get close as possible to minimize light falloff (law of inverse squares). You'll need to belt it out at full power and so you wont get a lot of exposures on one set of batteries.  So get your ambient exposure correct with the camera alone before turning the flash head on and trying to do two things at once 

I'm so confoosed now!  Maybe I just need to hire a sherpa to haul camera gear............and then use it

[Bean Counter]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U5LKQEE/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3M2C4KT21NPMJZWS04BX


Here's just the first one I found

I really like the idea of juSt using the Bluetooth lenses and flash devices for the phone for a light weight set up but am skeptical of picture quality and don't wana sacrifice the funds atm to find out

That's cool. It can be used as both a continuous light source (video) as well as pulse bigger blasts of light. Unfortunately when it comes to photography, this is one area where size matters [the other area being sensor size as I mentioned above--12mp on a FF or APS-C > 12mp on a 1" sensor or iPhone].  Just look at the sample photos on that Amazon ad: they're all shot at night. You intuitive know this already but just haven't thought of it in photographic terms.  You get out of the  truck in broad daylight and drop something into the grass. Using your 300 lumen flashlight then would be silly. But if its dark out, your the light from the screen of your cell phone would be helpful whilst searching around. Again: the brighter the ambient daylight, the MORE flash power you need to properly expose a great photo. Make the people brighter than the background. As far as camera specs go: the important one is the max flash sync shutter speed: 1/250 of a second sync speed will kill twice as much daylight as 1/125th, so your flash would have to work less. For most APS-C sized DSLRs today (Nikon 3xxx, 5xxxx, 7xxxx, and Canon Rebels and xxD's), that's usually around 1/250 of a second and for full frame cameras its about 1/200th. There are smaller curtains on smaller sensors so they will sync at a faster speed.

[Bean Counter]

I'm so confoosed now!  Maybe I just need to hire a sherpa to haul camera gear............and then use it

Chaos, panic, and confusion? Whelp, my work is done here, i'm out 

  At least you didn't go buying more stuff and expecting better results--which has made Canikon shareholders very, VERY wealthy over the years 

[grade-creek-rd]

Since your specifically asking for info on point & shoot cameras I'll keep my opinion to just cameras...as taking the photo is a whole different topic. I carried a Canon G10 for a few years. Then carried a Canon G1x before switching to a DSLR...ironically the 3 magazine covers I've shot were with the Canon point & shoots...in fact, I think all 3 were with the Canon G10...I would look at the Canon G16 very hard if you want to stay with a point & shoot, plus it has a bunch of effects and shooting modes and since your mostly wanting it for grip n grin type photos it will do those nicely, especially on a tripod using the self timer and the HDR function.

Grade

[jennabug]

I have owned several Canon Power Shot ELPH cameras, the one I have now has been dropped several times and still works fine. They seem to be easy to figure out and the least expensive is around $120, they go up to about $250 if you want a bunch of bells and whistles. Just about all the stores have them, try BiMart, Walmart or Fred Meyers.

 

I've also owned 3 ELPH cameras, including a waterproof one that I've used for 6 years.  They're pretty tough and take very good photos for a pocket camera.  Next time I need to buy a new P&S, I'll get another Canon ELPH.

[tlbradford]

If you have a nice newer phone and are getting crappy pics, then download an app that allows you manual controls so you can dial in the exposure.  Also, hand shake is a likely culprit.  Use the self-timer.

[Bean Counter]

BLR: how about posting up some photos you aren't happy with and we can better diagnose whether its a gear or technique issue? 

[DOUBLELUNG]

I've been very pleased with Canon Powershots and Nikon Coolpix P&S - I'm on my 4th Coolpix at home, and my 2nd Powershot at work.  Both are within your price range.

[DOUBLELUNG]

Here are a couple of super cheap, KISS P&S digital cameras that would meet what you are looking for:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Nikon-16.1-MP-26500/46620221
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Canon-20-MP/49839336

[Karl Blanchard]

BLR: how about posting up some photos you aren't happy with and we can better diagnose whether its a gear or technique issue? 

In order to post I have to downsize photos.  Will that change quality?

[Karl Blanchard]

Here are a couple of super cheap, KISS P&S digital cameras that would meet what you are looking for:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Nikon-16.1-MP-26500/46620221
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Canon-20-MP/49839336

thanks Beau, I'll check em out

[Karl Blanchard]

BLR: how about posting up some photos you aren't happy with and we can better diagnose whether its a gear or technique issue? 

  here are just a few that did not print well.  Very grainy.

[Bean Counter]

Well if noise ('grain') is truly your primary concern, go with a newer camera that gives you a bigger sensor and less megapixels than a smaller sensor with more megapixels. In general with Nikon you'll get a little bit better ISO performance than with Canon. They've outsourced their sensor production to Sony in the past few years and you'll get a stop or two extra dynamic range with a Sony sensor so there's that.

However, there's still the issue of technique. If I may:

Photos #2 and #3 are exactly what I was talking about (without having even seen the photos yet) as far as properly lighting your subject. Most on-camera flash of pocket cameras aren't going to be powerful enough to illuminate the face there. So for technique purposes, #2 would have come out the best to reverse the position of the camera and subject (back to the sun) and using the powerfull fill flash like we've been discussing. However, without that, the best thing to do would be to tilt the hat up so they eyes aren't in shade. Then, have your photographer count down "3..2..1" and then you open your eyes without anticipating the light for just a second during the exposure then you can go back to squinting. I call it the 'hold your blink' technique. #3 you'd do better next time to move the camera up higher on the hill so the sky isn't surrounding yours and the animals head, as this pulls the eyes attention away from the subject. If you shot it in RAW instead of JPG, you'd be able to recover more of the shadows, but again: fill flash is best.

For #1 it looks like there was little ambient light and so the camera probably fired a preflash for focus assist? This is often unsuccessful and renders the image out of focus. This may be a bigger source of discontent than the noise/grain. The best thing you can do here is to use a flashlight to help the camera focus on the subject then pull the light off before the exposure 

#4 is the strongest of the set. You might like it a little better with the hat off and I'd probably adjust the curves in post.