Free: Contests & Raffles.
Even the ones in your own vehicle?
Quote from: dyhardhuntr on April 07, 2017, 08:38:20 AMQuote from: baker5150 on April 07, 2017, 07:28:47 AMQuote from: Happy Gilmore on April 06, 2017, 10:33:22 PMQuote from: dyhardhuntr on April 06, 2017, 10:21:55 AMI've been a diesel mechanic for close to 17 years now. For 10 years I worked at a peterbilt dealer as the lead engine guy and for the last 7 years I've worked for the local municipality fleet. All of the engines mentioned have their issues and nuances. The biggest issues with diesels is from a maintenance stand point. A lot of people think that just because it's a diesel it will last longer. That's true if you maintain it. Diesels are quite a bit more $ to maintain over the life of them. If you're hauling regularly then it's a great way to go. Most of the diesels nowadays are great motors. Nothing has really changed much other then the emissions. Even the 6.0 ford is a great motor( it just needs a little money to make it that way). Also idling a new motor kills the emission system. Don't idle it for hours. Just drive it normally and you should be fine. New truck are a little more maintenance but if you pick up an older truck you're also going to pay for it. A buddy of mine picked up a nice Durand with low miles and 10 years old and payed 30k for it. So keep an eye out for good deals. If I was you and it's just an opinion, I would look at dodge or chevy. Dodge has a great base platform and it's proven. It's a straight six and those motors have a longer torque curve( no opposing cylinders). The only thing about dodge I dislike coming from a tech standpoint is dodge only allows you to see certain parameters for diagnoses. If you like to do your own work this can be a downfall. Duramax is a great motor(2004.5-early 07 before dpf). One thing you should look into is puttin a pyrometers guage to watch your exhaust temps when pulling. That will cook any motor no matter how great it is. It's a tough decision but those 2 engines are probably going to be cheaper maintenance in the long run. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.What are the temperature parameters for a 03 duramax? My gauge beeps at 1,200. I try to run it up hills with 20psi boost and around 900-1000, 2,300rpm seems to be the sweet spot.Best test for EGT limit is to load your truck heavy, usually done with a trailer or 5er, and haul up as steep a hill as you can find, drive it like you would a normal trip, or a little harder. Make sure if you have a programmer to put it back to stock first. Then watch your EGT's and see what the max it reaches is. That should be your max, to be safe I would back it off a bit. I set mine up to alarm at 1250 and then defuel the truck. My test was closer to 1300. I used to hit the alarm quiet a bit going over the pass', so I upgraded my exhaust and intake. Now I rarely hit, usually right before a down shift, if ever. Sorry for the thread jack. Very good info. Obviously lower is going to be better. 1300 degrees is pushing the limit. I wouldn't run it for an extended period of time. If you get to that point you need to let off the fuel and or downshift to get your rpms up. Or you can run bigger exhaust. You can have all the fancy high horsepower stuff on an engine but if you can't get rid of the heat it's all useless.Out of curiousity, how much can you really lower temps with a Cat back exhaust change? Obviously with Turbo back and emissions delete this would have a much greater effect, but I thought it was worth the question. I am about to purchase a newer 6.7 F350 and was curious what I can really do without screwing up the warranty.
Quote from: baker5150 on April 07, 2017, 07:28:47 AMQuote from: Happy Gilmore on April 06, 2017, 10:33:22 PMQuote from: dyhardhuntr on April 06, 2017, 10:21:55 AMI've been a diesel mechanic for close to 17 years now. For 10 years I worked at a peterbilt dealer as the lead engine guy and for the last 7 years I've worked for the local municipality fleet. All of the engines mentioned have their issues and nuances. The biggest issues with diesels is from a maintenance stand point. A lot of people think that just because it's a diesel it will last longer. That's true if you maintain it. Diesels are quite a bit more $ to maintain over the life of them. If you're hauling regularly then it's a great way to go. Most of the diesels nowadays are great motors. Nothing has really changed much other then the emissions. Even the 6.0 ford is a great motor( it just needs a little money to make it that way). Also idling a new motor kills the emission system. Don't idle it for hours. Just drive it normally and you should be fine. New truck are a little more maintenance but if you pick up an older truck you're also going to pay for it. A buddy of mine picked up a nice Durand with low miles and 10 years old and payed 30k for it. So keep an eye out for good deals. If I was you and it's just an opinion, I would look at dodge or chevy. Dodge has a great base platform and it's proven. It's a straight six and those motors have a longer torque curve( no opposing cylinders). The only thing about dodge I dislike coming from a tech standpoint is dodge only allows you to see certain parameters for diagnoses. If you like to do your own work this can be a downfall. Duramax is a great motor(2004.5-early 07 before dpf). One thing you should look into is puttin a pyrometers guage to watch your exhaust temps when pulling. That will cook any motor no matter how great it is. It's a tough decision but those 2 engines are probably going to be cheaper maintenance in the long run. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.What are the temperature parameters for a 03 duramax? My gauge beeps at 1,200. I try to run it up hills with 20psi boost and around 900-1000, 2,300rpm seems to be the sweet spot.Best test for EGT limit is to load your truck heavy, usually done with a trailer or 5er, and haul up as steep a hill as you can find, drive it like you would a normal trip, or a little harder. Make sure if you have a programmer to put it back to stock first. Then watch your EGT's and see what the max it reaches is. That should be your max, to be safe I would back it off a bit. I set mine up to alarm at 1250 and then defuel the truck. My test was closer to 1300. I used to hit the alarm quiet a bit going over the pass', so I upgraded my exhaust and intake. Now I rarely hit, usually right before a down shift, if ever. Sorry for the thread jack. Very good info. Obviously lower is going to be better. 1300 degrees is pushing the limit. I wouldn't run it for an extended period of time. If you get to that point you need to let off the fuel and or downshift to get your rpms up. Or you can run bigger exhaust. You can have all the fancy high horsepower stuff on an engine but if you can't get rid of the heat it's all useless.
Quote from: Happy Gilmore on April 06, 2017, 10:33:22 PMQuote from: dyhardhuntr on April 06, 2017, 10:21:55 AMI've been a diesel mechanic for close to 17 years now. For 10 years I worked at a peterbilt dealer as the lead engine guy and for the last 7 years I've worked for the local municipality fleet. All of the engines mentioned have their issues and nuances. The biggest issues with diesels is from a maintenance stand point. A lot of people think that just because it's a diesel it will last longer. That's true if you maintain it. Diesels are quite a bit more $ to maintain over the life of them. If you're hauling regularly then it's a great way to go. Most of the diesels nowadays are great motors. Nothing has really changed much other then the emissions. Even the 6.0 ford is a great motor( it just needs a little money to make it that way). Also idling a new motor kills the emission system. Don't idle it for hours. Just drive it normally and you should be fine. New truck are a little more maintenance but if you pick up an older truck you're also going to pay for it. A buddy of mine picked up a nice Durand with low miles and 10 years old and payed 30k for it. So keep an eye out for good deals. If I was you and it's just an opinion, I would look at dodge or chevy. Dodge has a great base platform and it's proven. It's a straight six and those motors have a longer torque curve( no opposing cylinders). The only thing about dodge I dislike coming from a tech standpoint is dodge only allows you to see certain parameters for diagnoses. If you like to do your own work this can be a downfall. Duramax is a great motor(2004.5-early 07 before dpf). One thing you should look into is puttin a pyrometers guage to watch your exhaust temps when pulling. That will cook any motor no matter how great it is. It's a tough decision but those 2 engines are probably going to be cheaper maintenance in the long run. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.What are the temperature parameters for a 03 duramax? My gauge beeps at 1,200. I try to run it up hills with 20psi boost and around 900-1000, 2,300rpm seems to be the sweet spot.Best test for EGT limit is to load your truck heavy, usually done with a trailer or 5er, and haul up as steep a hill as you can find, drive it like you would a normal trip, or a little harder. Make sure if you have a programmer to put it back to stock first. Then watch your EGT's and see what the max it reaches is. That should be your max, to be safe I would back it off a bit. I set mine up to alarm at 1250 and then defuel the truck. My test was closer to 1300. I used to hit the alarm quiet a bit going over the pass', so I upgraded my exhaust and intake. Now I rarely hit, usually right before a down shift, if ever. Sorry for the thread jack.
Quote from: dyhardhuntr on April 06, 2017, 10:21:55 AMI've been a diesel mechanic for close to 17 years now. For 10 years I worked at a peterbilt dealer as the lead engine guy and for the last 7 years I've worked for the local municipality fleet. All of the engines mentioned have their issues and nuances. The biggest issues with diesels is from a maintenance stand point. A lot of people think that just because it's a diesel it will last longer. That's true if you maintain it. Diesels are quite a bit more $ to maintain over the life of them. If you're hauling regularly then it's a great way to go. Most of the diesels nowadays are great motors. Nothing has really changed much other then the emissions. Even the 6.0 ford is a great motor( it just needs a little money to make it that way). Also idling a new motor kills the emission system. Don't idle it for hours. Just drive it normally and you should be fine. New truck are a little more maintenance but if you pick up an older truck you're also going to pay for it. A buddy of mine picked up a nice Durand with low miles and 10 years old and payed 30k for it. So keep an eye out for good deals. If I was you and it's just an opinion, I would look at dodge or chevy. Dodge has a great base platform and it's proven. It's a straight six and those motors have a longer torque curve( no opposing cylinders). The only thing about dodge I dislike coming from a tech standpoint is dodge only allows you to see certain parameters for diagnoses. If you like to do your own work this can be a downfall. Duramax is a great motor(2004.5-early 07 before dpf). One thing you should look into is puttin a pyrometers guage to watch your exhaust temps when pulling. That will cook any motor no matter how great it is. It's a tough decision but those 2 engines are probably going to be cheaper maintenance in the long run. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.What are the temperature parameters for a 03 duramax? My gauge beeps at 1,200. I try to run it up hills with 20psi boost and around 900-1000, 2,300rpm seems to be the sweet spot.
I've been a diesel mechanic for close to 17 years now. For 10 years I worked at a peterbilt dealer as the lead engine guy and for the last 7 years I've worked for the local municipality fleet. All of the engines mentioned have their issues and nuances. The biggest issues with diesels is from a maintenance stand point. A lot of people think that just because it's a diesel it will last longer. That's true if you maintain it. Diesels are quite a bit more $ to maintain over the life of them. If you're hauling regularly then it's a great way to go. Most of the diesels nowadays are great motors. Nothing has really changed much other then the emissions. Even the 6.0 ford is a great motor( it just needs a little money to make it that way). Also idling a new motor kills the emission system. Don't idle it for hours. Just drive it normally and you should be fine. New truck are a little more maintenance but if you pick up an older truck you're also going to pay for it. A buddy of mine picked up a nice Durand with low miles and 10 years old and payed 30k for it. So keep an eye out for good deals. If I was you and it's just an opinion, I would look at dodge or chevy. Dodge has a great base platform and it's proven. It's a straight six and those motors have a longer torque curve( no opposing cylinders). The only thing about dodge I dislike coming from a tech standpoint is dodge only allows you to see certain parameters for diagnoses. If you like to do your own work this can be a downfall. Duramax is a great motor(2004.5-early 07 before dpf). One thing you should look into is puttin a pyrometers guage to watch your exhaust temps when pulling. That will cook any motor no matter how great it is. It's a tough decision but those 2 engines are probably going to be cheaper maintenance in the long run. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.
I know cummins will run 1300egt all day. I did stock test and she ran about 1320 degrees max. I set my warning at 1300 and back off at 1350. No issues. I saw a cummins demo where they ran the 5.9 under 100% load for 24 hours strait at 1300 egt. It was for a marine application but still makes the point. People back off to early cause they don't know whats safe. I kick off OD when towing and pull hills around 1200egt @ 60mph+. Must keep rpm up higher to cool. But I have upgrade turbo too. Yes I did a trans flush filter and solenoid upgrades at 90k when I bought truck. I intend on rebuilding trans soon but it still works fine. I slip torque converter if I put too much power down and still have shuttle shift issue. If its a 325hp engine I am probably running about 425hp and 7-800tq empty and 375 750 towing. I have to dial it back because trans cant take any more then 2 or 3 on tunes. If heavier I have ran stock tune with good results. Only issue is around 35-40 mph between 2nd and drive. If I let it lug(EGT) or downshift to 2nd it doesn't like to lock up and creates trans heat when towing hills. Anyone who tows without trans (auto) temp is asking for problems-guaranteed! One thing for sure is this Dodge will pull the guts out of my 01 Ford 350 however the Fords big eng and big turbo did a good job of cooling heavy loads, better than stock dodge little turbo does.
Just found out recently that shuttle shift can be caused by fouled battery terminals, specifically the passenger side battery. At least that was true on my '02 ram.
Just saw this! My gen. 1 6.7 is still chugging along fine with 105k on it. Ive owned it new since I bought it in 07. Only complaint is I lifted it. It eats 37" tires and drives like a tank. Ive replaced nearly every front end component with either moog or spicer parts too. Added a steering stabilizer as well..
