Arrow and Broadhead recommendations

[huntfish365]

I plan on getting new arrows for next season. I shot Gold Tip Kinetic Pierce 300s the past two seasons and haven’t been too happy with their straightness or the ballistic collars. I only archery hunt elk and am wanting to go towards a little heavier arrow. My gold tips came in right around 465 and I wanna get over 500. I’ve been shooting 125gr slick tricks and wasn’t impressed with how the blades held up. I shot my elk and it hit the top of the ribs on a steep quartering too shot and one of the blades broke in half. Granted the elk only went 40yds but I would’ve liked to see it hold up a little better. I also shot one into a clay bank at 105yds and one of the blades broke and it didn’t hit anything but soft clay.

So, I’m looking for a solid 150gr head that’ll hold up to most anything. I’ve done my research but wanna hear some stories from you guys and your experiences. I’m planning on getting Black Eagle X-Impacts 250s with three or four fletch AAE Max Stealth vanes and a four inch wrap which should come out to around 515grs. Anyone have any expiernce with these shafts or recommend another? I like the fact of a micro diameter shaft but am willing to look at something else. Thanks a million!

[Tjv28]

This is gonna be a hell of a deep rabbit hole, but I shoot VAP elite 300’s (95 grain insert) w/ solid legend broadheads. 500 grains. Accurate and durable

[TheHunt]

This will turn into an opinion based thread.  Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge... 

I will be building out different arrows next year as well.  Here is what I have come up with.  There is a sweet spot for arrows where I have read that a 6.3 to 6.7 grains per lb of draw weight.  What I have read that range is the target for optimal performance/penetration of an elk. 

The FOC (Forward of Center) percent also makes a different as well.  Anything about 15% is a good number.   But people have blown that out as well from my opinion.  Shooting 600 grains in a 65 lb bow is not what I would be doing.  It would look like a rainbow.  Just my opinion and not what I would be shooting.

The broadhead, outsert, insert, etc is what will tilt the FOC.  Blazer veins are heavy. Wraps add weight.  I like them but they are heavy.  Adding a fourth vein adds weight.  People throwing 600 grain arrows are good for them not for me.  The momentum of the arrow at the elk will do some damage but at the same time many bow manufactures have stopped the higher poundage bows.  Most are at 60 - 70 with less people maxing out the bow at 70.  Heck if you were strong enough why not use a 500 grain arrow at 75 lbs.   Which would give you that 6.67 grains per lb.  You would get a pass through on an elk.   

Anyway, this is just what I have found out.  I want to keep the speed of the arrow, max the arrow weight to a point of diminishing performance.  I am still reading and talking to people on this. 

Keep me posted what you come up with as I would be interested in learning what you have selected and why.  I like to learn from other people who know more an I.

[Sneaky]

My cousin killed his bull this year with a 60lb bowtech realm, 380ish grain black eagle rampage with rage trypan, pass through, blood everywhere, broken ribs, lights out! The expandable looked brand new still...the new rage trypan is no joke...this makes four elk in the last three years our group has killed with rage broadheads all with 60lb bows and sub 400gr arrows.  This is not meant to trash the heavy arrow/fixed blade crowd, but I wouldn't get hung up on trying to get over a certain number weight wise. I find its more important to build an arrow that makes sense for your setup, correctly spined, proper length, straight as you can afford, with decent FOC, that goes where you ask it to go! Slap a quality broadhead on (we use rage broadheads because they just flat work...) and hit the woods!



We shoot black eagle rampages same setup at deer and elk...they are a .204 shaft and we buy the .001" with 56gr stainless outserts. You have to make sure to dry fit/spin test the outserts prior to gluing them in to make sure there is no wobble in the outsert. These are the most affordable, straightest arrows you can get. They are also nice because you can shoot a regular old X nock and not worry about nock bushings robbing your FOC. The next closest thing is the Victory RIP .204 which are much more expensive. I don't have any experience with the victory shafts but hear a lot of good things.

Like TheHunt mentioned, do what you can to lighten up the arse end of the arrow. Three fletchings, no nock bushings, no lighted nocks, no wraps, will help you build in more FOC.

[coachcw]

Killed plenty with a old xs75 in 2314 but those dont work anymore. shooting vap 250s with 90 grain insets and 125 tlocks . I saw a goldtip 340 and a 100 tlock litterly smash right through a rear femmer on a bull and come out behind last rib , catastrophic damage out of a 280fps bow.

[coachcw]

one thing i will ad is i will never shoot a two blade without bleeders on elk . i have seen the fat pop out the hole and plug it making a tough blood trail .

[demontang]

Really like the RAD heads. Get good flight and the do their job well

[huntfish365]

The new setup I described would have around 13.5% FOC which isn’t terrible. I know mechanicals kill and kill well sometimes. And I know that you don’t need a heavy arrow and fixed broadhead but that’s what I prefer. *censored* happens and if I pull a shot into the shoulder I know I’ll have a good chance of getting enough penetration to hopefully get a lung. I’d rather be safe than sorry. No ones perfect and bad shots happen.I shoot a Hoyt Rx1 Turbo at 70lbs and 29” draw so I get decent speed. I’ll rpobably go with 3 fletch and right offers it helical. I’ve been most leaning towards the iron will or Valkyrie short jag. I’ve heard great things about them and they seem like they would fit the bill.

[Nash]

https://valkyriearchery.com

Spendy but awesome