AR mod question

[pat2bear]

Got a couple questions for you black rifle buffs out there. I bought a DPMS Oracle a couple years ago. I didn’t do anything with it for a year or so except cycle a few rounds through it to make sure it functioned properly. I installed a Midwest free float m-lok guard. I’m not ready to drop a bunch of money on a scope so I threw an old bushnell 4x12 scope I had laying around and surprisingly it is grouping quite well. I’m real happy with it, it’s been a great starter rifle. Anyway, what I don’t like is the trigger. When I’m at the range switching from my model 700 to the oracle it’s a huge difference. I know my 700 has a heavy pull probably 5lbs or so but it’s crisp with little to no pre travel or take up. So I guess I’m looking for suggestions on something in that range, single stage and reasonable price. Also discovered that the scope gets in the way of the charging handle so looking a wider handle at a good price too. On a budget so price is a big factor. Sorry for the long winded post but just wanted to give some background. Thanks.

[Bango skank]

Im by no means an ar buff, but this is a really nice trigger.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1003355484?pid=777332

Youll like it, i promise.

[Alchase]

I have two Geissele triggers, and they are sweet! They are also expensive. I would also look at Larue (MBT) triggers, 1/2 the price of the Geisseles, and very close in quality.

[fowl smacker]

LaRue MBT is one of the best triggers out there and it is a lot cheaper than some of the other "best" triggers.  Until something changes they will be going in every build of mine.

[Dan-o]

X3 for the Larue MBT.   

[Special T]

Do yourself a favor and look up how to do a trigger job on each of your rifles. I promise you fine grit sandpaper and an hour will both educate you on how your weapon works AND will make it shoot smoother. I've done this on a BUNCH of my guns, and while I have an aftermarket trigger in one rifle, I am unlikely to buy another. 2c

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[birdshooter1189]

Do yourself a favor and look up how to do a trigger job on each of your rifles. I promise you fine grit sandpaper and an hour will both educate you on how your weapon works AND will make it shoot smoother. I've done this on a BUNCH of my guns, and while I have an aftermarket trigger in one rifle, I am unlikely to buy another. 2c

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   I have an AR with a no-name stock trigger.  I took it apart, did some file work to the hammer where the trigger catches it, then worked the hammer and corresponding part of the trigger with a dremel tool cotton tip and polishing compound until the contact surfaces were mirror smooth.  The result is not quite as good as an aftermarket trigger, but the price was right.  It shoots descent and I have the satisfaction that I made it better.

Note:  If you file too much on the hammer you will have to file the semi-auto sear to make sure the hammer doesn't release prematurely.  If you file too much still you run out of capacity to fix it on the sear and you have to buy new parts.  Did that once.....  It was a good learning experience though.  I now understand how the trigger works 100x better than I did before that project.

[konradcountry]

LOL at people suggesting 2 stage $200 triggers when he wants a budget 1 stage.

These are actually really good
https://www.righttobear.com/Enhanced-Nickel-Teflon-Trigger-Assembly-p/enta-01.htm

Only problem is that they are often out of stock.

[Special T]

Do yourself a favor and look up how to do a trigger job on each of your rifles. I promise you fine grit sandpaper and an hour will both educate you on how your weapon works AND will make it shoot smoother. I've done this on a BUNCH of my guns, and while I have an aftermarket trigger in one rifle, I am unlikely to buy another. 2c

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

   I have an AR with a no-name stock trigger.  I took it apart, did some file work to the hammer where the trigger catches it, then worked the hammer and corresponding part of the trigger with a dremel tool cotton tip and polishing compound until the contact surfaces were mirror smooth.  The result is not quite as good as an aftermarket trigger, but the price was right.  It shoots descent and I have the satisfaction that I made it better.

Note:  If you file too much on the hammer you will have to file the semi-auto sear to make sure the hammer doesn't release prematurely.  If you file too much still you run out of capacity to fix it on the sear and you have to buy new parts.  Did that once.....  It was a good learning experience though.  I now understand how the trigger works 100x better than I did before that project.

Even it you barely touch the search, generally you b.c an sandal the contact surfaces and drop a couple of pounds and get a clean break. So if you go from a grittyb7lbs to a clean 5, that will help no matter what.... and you will learn something new.

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[adamR]

ALG Defense ACT

It's reasonably priced and very similar to the mil-spec trigger.

[jasnt]

I’ve done a few diy polish jobs on ar triggers.  It helps but it’s no after market.   If you decide you have $200 for a trigger I’d go cmc.  Great trigger imo

[b23]

I’ve done a few diy polish jobs on ar triggers.  It helps but it’s no after market.   If you decide you have $200 for a trigger I’d go cmc.  Great trigger imo

 

I have a few CMC single stage AR triggers and they've been great.  Mine are all single stage and are the 3-3.5lb version.  I've measured them with my digital pull gauge and they are always on the low end of that range.  If you shop around you can usually get them for well under $150. https://palmettostatearmory.com/cmc-triggers-single-stage-tactical-trigger-curved-bow-3-5-91501.html

A DIY trigger job will generally always make it better but you have to be very careful not to get to aggressive with your sanding and it's VERY important to keep the same angles because you can go from making it better, to having an unsafe trigger really fast if you aren't careful.

[Special T]

I want to add that I sanded more than the sear. I sanded down every place where the different parts of the trigger assembly touched. I have a revolver that had drag marks on the side of the hammer. I sanded it down on both the hammer and the  high part of the frame.  IMO the sanding was part of the fitting process back in the day. Can you buy a better aftermarket trigger? Sure. Ive fired a Timney and CMC and they are both nice, but if your on a budget what do you have to loose?

[superdown]

I have this trigger in one of my AR's and i was surprised at how nice it is for the money JMT Saber. https://gun.deals/product/jmt-saber-single-stage-drop-trigger-ar15ar10-includes-anti-rotation-pins-9495-free-shipping

[Alchase]

LOL at people suggesting 2 stage $200 triggers when he wants a budget 1 stage.

These are actually really good
https://www.righttobear.com/Enhanced-Nickel-Teflon-Trigger-Assembly-p/enta-01.htm

Only problem is that they are often out of stock.

Uhm,
The LaRue MBt-S1 is a single stage trigger that costs $80!
Fantastic trigger!

[konradcountry]

LOL at people suggesting 2 stage $200 triggers when he wants a budget 1 stage.

These are actually really good
https://www.righttobear.com/Enhanced-Nickel-Teflon-Trigger-Assembly-p/enta-01.htm

Only problem is that they are often out of stock.

Uhm,
The LaRue MBt-S1 is a single stage trigger that costs $80!
Fantastic trigger!

Was referring to the Geissele. Hiperfire is another good option for around the same price as the Larue.

[Alchase]

LOL at people suggesting 2 stage $200 triggers when he wants a budget 1 stage.

These are actually really good
https://www.righttobear.com/Enhanced-Nickel-Teflon-Trigger-Assembly-p/enta-01.htm

Only problem is that they are often out of stock.

Uhm,
The LaRue MBt-S1 is a single stage trigger that costs $80!
Fantastic trigger!

Was referring to the Geissele. Hiperfire is another good option for around the same price as the Larue.

 

[huntandjeep]

Larue is hands down best bang for the buck .

[Yondering]

For budget triggers - Larue MBT if you want a 2 stage, or Rise Armament if you want a single stage. Both are good and won't break the bank.

Don't waste your money on an ALG or other coated mil-spec type trigger if you're interested in an actual good trigger. They are lighter, but still have a mile of creep.

And I really very strongly recommend NOT sanding on your AR trigger. It's not a bolt gun trigger, and if you don't know what you're doing you can easily end up with a trigger that loses control, bad news. I have improved quite a few AR triggers and it can be done with the addition of several set screws along with careful stoning and adjustment, but that's some more advanced work than most here have the ability to do I think. It's a lot easier to mess up an AR trigger than it is to make one good. Just drop $80-$100 and buy a good one.

[konradcountry]

Don't waste your money on an ALG or other coated mil-spec type trigger if you're interested in an actual good trigger. They are lighter, but still have a mile of creep.

There is no rule that states you must spend XX to get a trigger without creep. It's a mechanical process.

Reminds me of a friend that told me I'd never get sub MOA with a stock stag trigger. I didn't tell him I already was.

Not all mil spec triggers are built the same and there are tons of reviews on coated triggers where people say they are no longer going to spend $200 after trying one.

[Yondering]

Don't waste your money on an ALG or other coated mil-spec type trigger if you're interested in an actual good trigger. They are lighter, but still have a mile of creep.

There is no rule that states you must spend XX to get a trigger without creep. It's a mechanical process.

Reminds me of a friend that told me I'd never get sub MOA with a stock stag trigger. I didn't tell him I already was.

Not all mil spec triggers are built the same and there are tons of reviews on coated triggers where people say they are no longer going to spend $200 after trying one.

I didn't say anything about a rule on how much to spend. I did say there are a few good options for $80-$100.

Have you used the ALG or other coated mil-spec style triggers? I have. They all have just as much creep as stock mil-spec triggers, they are just lighter. If you look at (and understand) the design, it's obvious why. Yes they vary, but the design requires a large amount of creep and relatively heavy trigger pull, even with special coatings. Some people are happy with that, but the OP said he wanted a good trigger; those aren't a "good" trigger they are just a small improvement over stock, nothing more.
I'm speaking of experience here, not just repeating what I've read online or claiming whatever I bought is better, as so many people do. I do a lot with trigger improvements, on every rifle and pistol I own, which includes quite a few ARs, so my intention is to answer the OP with what I know will work well for him rather than just saying what I've heard or validating my own purchases. If he asked how to make a stock AR trigger light and crisp I can show him that too, but it's a lot more involved than most people can do, and for the amount of work put in he's better off spending $100 or so.

[adamR]

Don't waste your money on an ALG or other coated mil-spec type trigger if you're interested in an actual good trigger. They are lighter, but still have a mile of creep.

There is no rule that states you must spend XX to get a trigger without creep. It's a mechanical process.

Reminds me of a friend that told me I'd never get sub MOA with a stock stag trigger. I didn't tell him I already was.

Not all mil spec triggers are built the same and there are tons of reviews on coated triggers where people say they are no longer going to spend $200 after trying one.

I didn't say anything about a rule on how much to spend. I did say there are a few good options for $80-$100.

Have you used the ALG or other coated mil-spec style triggers? I have. They all have just as much creep as stock mil-spec triggers, they are just lighter. If you look at (and understand) the design, it's obvious why. Yes they vary, but the design requires a large amount of creep and relatively heavy trigger pull, even with special coatings. Some people are happy with that, but the OP said he wanted a good trigger; those aren't a "good" trigger they are just a small improvement over stock, nothing more.
I'm speaking of experience here, not just repeating what I've read online or claiming whatever I bought is better, as so many people do. I do a lot with trigger improvements, on every rifle and pistol I own, which includes quite a few ARs, so my intention is to answer the OP with what I know will work well for him rather than just saying what I've heard or validating my own purchases. If he asked how to make a stock AR trigger light and crisp I can show him that too, but it's a lot more involved than most people can do, and for the amount of work put in he's better off spending $100 or so.

If the OP is in the market for a low budget trigger, a $60 ALG is an improvement over mil-spec.  I didn't say it was a great trigger and certainly didn't give him an option for a $200 trigger.  My first trigger upgrade was low budget and for the money, I'm very happy with the ALG as I wasn't willing to "work" on the mil-spec trigger.  He can keep the trigger pull of mil-spec or drop down to 4.5 - 5 if he chooses. 

[konradcountry]

Have you used the ALG or other coated mil-spec style triggers? I have. They all have just as much creep as stock mil-spec triggers, they are just lighter. If you look at (and understand) the design, it's obvious why. Yes they vary, but the design requires a large amount of creep and relatively heavy trigger pull, even with special coatings. Some people are happy with that, but the OP said he wanted a good trigger; those aren't a "good" trigger they are just a small improvement over stock, nothing more.

Yes I have used the right to bear teflon trigger. It is better than some $200 triggers I have tried and there are few dozen reviews where others say the same thing. Is it my first choice? No but it doesn't make sense to argue that they can't reduce the creep in a $40 trigger when you can get a $10 screw adjuster to do the same thing.

Read the reviews for yourself:
https://www.righttobear.com/Enhanced-Nickel-Teflon-Trigger-Assembly-p/enta-01.htm

[pat2bear]

Thanks everyone lots of good info. I’ll start checking these out.

[Yondering]

Don't waste your money on an ALG or other coated mil-spec type trigger if you're interested in an actual good trigger. They are lighter, but still have a mile of creep.

There is no rule that states you must spend XX to get a trigger without creep. It's a mechanical process.

Reminds me of a friend that told me I'd never get sub MOA with a stock stag trigger. I didn't tell him I already was.

Not all mil spec triggers are built the same and there are tons of reviews on coated triggers where people say they are no longer going to spend $200 after trying one.

I didn't say anything about a rule on how much to spend. I did say there are a few good options for $80-$100.

Have you used the ALG or other coated mil-spec style triggers? I have. They all have just as much creep as stock mil-spec triggers, they are just lighter. If you look at (and understand) the design, it's obvious why. Yes they vary, but the design requires a large amount of creep and relatively heavy trigger pull, even with special coatings. Some people are happy with that, but the OP said he wanted a good trigger; those aren't a "good" trigger they are just a small improvement over stock, nothing more.
I'm speaking of experience here, not just repeating what I've read online or claiming whatever I bought is better, as so many people do. I do a lot with trigger improvements, on every rifle and pistol I own, which includes quite a few ARs, so my intention is to answer the OP with what I know will work well for him rather than just saying what I've heard or validating my own purchases. If he asked how to make a stock AR trigger light and crisp I can show him that too, but it's a lot more involved than most people can do, and for the amount of work put in he's better off spending $100 or so.

If the OP is in the market for a low budget trigger, a $60 ALG is an improvement over mil-spec.  I didn't say it was a great trigger and certainly didn't give him an option for a $200 trigger.  My first trigger upgrade was low budget and for the money, I'm very happy with the ALG as I wasn't willing to "work" on the mil-spec trigger.  He can keep the trigger pull of mil-spec or drop down to 4.5 - 5 if he chooses.

You can spend $60 for a mediocre ALG trigger, or $80 for an excellent Larue. Seems like you'd have to be pretty hard up for cash to make the ALG seem like the right choice.

[hunter399]

One and done
Free shipping

https://www.graniteridgeoutfitters.com/JMT-Saber-Single-Stage-Drop-in-Trigger-SABERTRIGGER.htm