Free: Contests & Raffles.
I have tried two different methods. Both labs, no pro but here are my observations..... The first I worked with ALOT on obedience initially as a puppy and she was extremely well behaved. I read dokkens books and started with his method. I never coaxed a high retrieve drive out of her, she was a bit aloof, and not food motivated at all. Loved small amounts of attention but didn't dig it like many labs. She did have a good nose and would retrieve, but had to drill often and we went all the time in those days, so she found some, including a few blind ones. I had a crazy good bond with that one, and there was no doubt she was MY dog. Tough when I lost her tragically. Started looking right away to get over that. Decided to go a different route, and went with a breeder, researched and wanted another lab but thought maybe if I looked for good lines I would have better odds of getting higher drive. It worked. She did a basic boot camp obedience class, and she did well. Worked with her at home for more obedience training. Till she was about 6-8 months. Put her in formal retriever program due to time constraints and to get some idea of working with dog for myself. It worked, she is a retrieving machine. Anything she can associate with you throwing it for for her she will bring back. The first year out she found more bone than my other did in three. And I barely worked with her after the formal training program, I introduced basic bumper drills and began substituting antlers for the bumpers. Then multiple antlers and hiding them, whenever she would bring them back I would throw a ball, or even toss the antler for her. I was working in the woods cruising and she would pick antlers often, and when we were actually shed hunting she did great. She is also obedient, fairly well behaved, though not the soldier the first one was. And this one can't control the licker. But she is a sweetheart with the family and a great dog. What I have learned..... You need control. They need to come immediately when called or whistled. Rule one for me. If my dog breaks, I halt them. Lots of exciting things in the woods, including deer and elk that don't need chased, swollen rivers and creeks etc... finding sheds is secondary to maintaining control IMO. Basic obedience, heel, and leash control are priority 1 to me. I am not handling my dog the way most dog handlers/upland/birdhunters do. This probably holds back from a true shed HUNTING dog. A dog your relying on to find sheds for you. Sure she brings back sheds, but i'm not stopping to send her into every thicket. She is along for the ride. I think many folks have this idea that they will double or triple they're shed take. In heavy cover you might. But you have to work the wind for the dog, and that may not be the most direct way for you to get through the area. That's where formal shed training really stands out. You have to let the dog do the work, and cater to them. Like hunting over an upland dog. I have little experience here as its not been my style so far. I also believe if your serious about a true shed dog, get a big running dog. My lab is small and lean and can cover country but she gets whooped in big country and I can certainly walk her into the ground over multiple days if she hasn't been training with me especially. If your training, take the dog with you. Runs, hikes, etc.... they aren't indestructible. If traveling to new different terrain, take foot care for them. Use Bravecto tick treatment. Sorry for rambling....
