300 WSM Reloading question

[Rickyrebar]

Ok, as I have started all of my previous posts, I would like to mention that I am new to reloading, so take that into consideration when answering please. I have got some great responses from several of you, but some responses go right over my head, so please keep it simple.

I'm getting ready to dump powder and go shooting for the first time with my own hand loads and would like some input on different methods for working up loads.

As well, can I get your opinions on the following method for working up a load. A local gunsmith suggested I try this...

He said to follow the load data from my manual (Nosler #6 for a 300 WSM 180Gr. Ballistic Silver-tip), using the components of my choice (W760 powder, CCI Magnum Primers, once fired and FL resized Winchester nickel plated cases). Note: Nosler lists 3 loads using W760 - 60Gr, 62Gr & 64Gr (Max.).
He suggested I start with the middle load & work up loads in 1 Gr, increments to the Max. load, 3 rounds each. I have read, that you should work up 1/2 Gr. increments, his opinion was that with a larger rifle 1/2 Gr increments were a waste of time & components.

At the range, shoot a factory load similar to what I am reloading (Winchester 180 Gr Ballistic Silver-tips), & measure the diameter of the case (before & after) with a micrometer above the head, recording the difference.
Now begin shooting the hand loads taking the same measurements @ the head as with the factory round. The idea was to work up the ladder using the diameter expansion of the fired factory case as a yard stick in comparison with the reloads to determine when you are approaching the pressure threshold.
I wish I had written down his instructions, they made total sense at the time but now I can not remember them clearly enough to be comfortable with it. But, he also mentioned something about pulling a bullet on a factory round and putting the powder that I am using in place of the factory powder, seating the bullet... shooting it and measuring the head... I don't remember exactly what the reasoning was behind that, I think it was to record the "factory" case expansion with the hand load powder.
Anyway, does this make any sense to any of you? I'm pretty sure he was following a method of Ken Waters, he mentioned his books (Pet Loads & Notebook) several times. I need to track them down.
Opinions, suggestions, regarding working up a "starter load" for a newbie would be welcomed.
Thanks

[coyotewallace]

I myself start a little lower then in the middle of load data and I do go 1/2 grain at a time(3 shot groups on the normal). I watch for pressure signs in the case/primer and bolt getting sticky. I use one target for each load and I write all info. down on the target and put the target in my log book. after I have that info.I fine tune my rifle from there looking for the sweet spot.
Keep in mind I'm no bench rest shooter its all about letting the wind out of something for me but at the end of my load testing I'm shooting groups not patterns

[carpsniperg2]

that seems a little bit more than what a beginner needs to do. what i will always do is start 1/2 grain lower than the listed min load and work up 1/2 grain at a time to 1/2 grain under max i never shoot max. almost all my guns are at the middle loads in the book maybe 1 grain higer in some cases and all i have found with the hotter loads is more pressure signs even though i am shooting the same size group never needed to go max. just watch your cases for bad signs and etc.

[Huntbear]

Even in magnum cases, 1/2 a grain is a good moving point.  I load for the 300 wsm.  Yes, that cartridge seems to like near max loads, however, you need to work up to them SLOWLY.  When I am getting a good group, and the velocity I like then I will jump up and down by .1 gr. to see if I can tighten the group up even more. 

Just take it slow, keep your reloaded shells separate, and marked.  Inspect each case after firing, and you should be perfectly fine. 

[Rickyrebar]

Even in magnum cases, 1/2 a grain is a good moving point.  I load for the 300 wsm.  Yes, that cartridge seems to like near max loads, however, you need to work up to them SLOWLY.  When I am getting a good group, and the velocity I like then I will jump up and down by .1 gr. to see if I can tighten the group up even more. 

Just take it slow, keep your reloaded shells separate, and marked.  Inspect each case after firing, and you should be perfectly fine. 

1/2 Gr. it is, better safe than sorry.
Another question, what is an acceptable tolerance in neck length before needing to trim? Most of my once fired cases are around .005 below, I'll occasionally run into the odd ball that is .001 -.003 above.   

[arees]

I agree with working up in 1/2 grain or less increments as well, especially with the 300 WSM.  Mine only shoots well right at max pressure and I am not a fan of the cartridge because of that.

[Huntbear]

Even in magnum cases, 1/2 a grain is a good moving point.  I load for the 300 wsm.  Yes, that cartridge seems to like near max loads, however, you need to work up to them SLOWLY.  When I am getting a good group, and the velocity I like then I will jump up and down by .1 gr. to see if I can tighten the group up even more. 

Just take it slow, keep your reloaded shells separate, and marked.  Inspect each case after firing, and you should be perfectly fine. 

1/2 Gr. it is, better safe than sorry.
Another question, what is an acceptable tolerance in neck length before needing to trim? Most of my once fired cases are around .005 below, I'll occasionally run into the odd ball that is .001 -.003 above.   

If they are new brass, load em up.  If they are once fired in your gun, chamber the brass, see if they chamber, if they do, load em.  However, I would trim em down the next time.  You will also save a lot of brass trimming if  you get a neck sizer die, but only if  you are loading for your gun only.

[Rickyrebar]

Even in magnum cases, 1/2 a grain is a good moving point.  I load for the 300 wsm.  Yes, that cartridge seems to like near max loads, however, you need to work up to them SLOWLY.  When I am getting a good group, and the velocity I like then I will jump up and down by .1 gr. to see if I can tighten the group up even more. 

Just take it slow, keep your reloaded shells separate, and marked.  Inspect each case after firing, and you should be perfectly fine. 

1/2 Gr. it is, better safe than sorry.
Another question, what is an acceptable tolerance in neck length before needing to trim? Most of my once fired cases are around .005 below, I'll occasionally run into the odd ball that is .001 -.003 above.   

If they are new brass, load em up.  If they are once fired in your gun, chamber the brass, see if they chamber, if they do, load em.  However, I would trim em down the next time.  You will also save a lot of brass trimming if  you get a neck sizer die, but only if  you are loading for your gun only.

They are once fired & FL resized. They chamber fine, however as I said they are a few tho. over SAAMI specs. So with having said that, they are good to load up?
Is there an acceptable measurable tolerance I should be watching for, or is it more being able to chamber the case?

[Huntbear]

yes, they are fine this time.  You will need to trim the next time you reload them.  Looks like you are ready to roll on, get em charged and post pics of your results.

[yorketransport]

Reading that even confused me! I think that the smith made it sound more complicated than it needs to be. My basic strategy when i started was to "start low and go slow". In a case this size, I think .5 grain increments is about right. Do this until you get some good groups, then I'd go smaller if you wanted to really tune the load. The 300 WSM can be a little unpredictable in my experience. I've loaded for 4 different guns in this caliber and all of them gave sudden pressure signs when I approached that particular gun's max load. Sometime's that was 2 grains under the listed max, other time's it was at or above the listed max.

As far as using factory ammo as a gauge, I don't even know about that. I've seen more than a few factory loads in all of the WSMs give erratic pressures.

Andrew

[high country]

some powders (double based for exp) react more violently then others and should be used cautiosly. they work magically well, but tend to spike quickly. addionally, powders like win 296 become violent when reduced much below max pressures. none of this am I aiming at your case, just adding some head scratching material for the future.