looking to get into archery...pointers!?

[NWWABOWHNTR]

Take your time and shoot lots of bows... then pick the one that feels best to you.  Now I am a traditional only shooter.. hunt with a longbow and do all the competitive tourneys with a recurve or longbow.  However,  if you are headed towards a compound,  take a look at the new Bowtech Assassin it is fully set up for $599.. beats spending $800 for a bow and then another $300-400 on rest, stab, quiver, and sight.  If you are going full out then also take a look at the Maitland Retribution as it may be the smoothest, quietest bow out there right now in my opinion.  I think WIlderness Archery in Bow (just north of Mt Vernon) is the only shop that carries them in Washington.. www.wildernessarchery.us  Roger there will take good care of you.  If you want the full bowhunting experience then stay away from the training wheels and pick up a decent recurve or longbow!    

[Huntboy]

Find a bow you like and shoot it alot.

[McCascades]

Shoot as many bows as you can. Don't lock in to just one manufacturer. Assuming  you will be looking at compounds, You will most likely need to visit several shops to do this. After you've shot a few you'll get to know what feels good to you.  The accessories for a bow can really add fast. Look for a package deal that includes most everything you need. Sights, quiver, arrow rest and maybe a stabilizer. The other thing you my need is mechanical release. Try lots of those as well. There are lots of options out there. Try as many as you can until you find one you are most comfortable with. Then do as the man said shoot some and then shoot some more. Then shoot a lot more.

Good Luck. Archery hunting is a blast.

[seansfire]

I shoot a Mission X3 which i think is a great bow and not all that expensive. I think a bare bow brand new runs about 300.00. I also have been shooting 2213 Easton Aluminum arrows ands 125 grain field tips and broadheads. Went with a 5 pin Spott Hogg sights.

If you are looking for good shops there is Kitsap Archery out in Belfair. A guy named Charlie owns the place and i willing to share his knowledge with you. Also in fife is Sportco.

Shop Ebay for arrows and accessories as they are way cheaper than the stores but stay away from online bows unless they are new in the box as you never know how a used bow has been treated. Also i just got a good Buckmaster target block from Wal-Mart for about $40.00. Good luck and i hope you enjoy the sport.

[zackmioli]

thanks a ton everyone! i will definitely keep everyone updated when i start going to archery stores and checking stuff out. me and a buddy are both going to get into archery this year together so it should be quite the adventure. im sure i will have a lot more questions as i get further into this! 

[elkbuster]

  When I started bow hunting about 4 years ago, I started at Cabelas in Post Falls, ID.  They have a good archery staff and they set me up in a good beginner bow just to see if I would like the sport.   I fell in love and will never go back.  I tried muzzleloader hunting also for a few years.  I live in north central WA about 3 hours from Spokane and 2 hours from Wenatchee.  There is a little outfitter in Omak WA, Cascade Outfitters that I do all my archery purchasing.  Richard is very knowledgeable about bows and bow hunting.  If you ever get up this way, check out his archery shop.  He carries Mathews and sells used bows that a lot of hunters have traded for a Mathews.  Good luck. 

[bow4elk]

Hey guys, I have always rifle hunted but after going to Montana this fall to call for my cousin who was bow hunting elk I am pretty sold on giving it a try. I am hoping to get a bow for christmas, if that doesnt happen I will be purchasing one shortly after the holidays are over. I am just looking for any kind of tips and advice, brand of bow, draw weight, arrows, different gear I might need, new strategies I might need to be aware of, etc.

So if you are willing to share anything I would love to hear it and I would really appreciate it. Oh and I will be able to set up a shooting area at my grandfathers house so Ill be able to get lots of practice.

Thanks!

If you want to come over sometime I'd be happy to spend some time with you on shooting form, shot routine, bow set up, etc.  I can get you going on elk vocalizations at the same time.  No charge or anything, just glad to help you get started right.

[throttlejocky20]

Practice practice practice. Just when you think your getting good practice more.

[stickslinger]

as everyone else said PRACTICE!!!! but also get a range finder and practice judging yardage.. I have seen alot of rifle hunters pick up a bow and since they are not used to seing animals closer than 100 yards they tend to get real exited (I guess thats what you call it) and start flinging arrows at animals that are way too far, next thing you know there are animals walking around with arrows in the ass, legs, head, and so on

[elkslayer99]

A good place to get some help is Great Northwest fishing and Archery Doug is a real nice guy very helpful!! They have an indoor range and are there by Skookum Archery Range.

Scott

[gjbruny]

too many guys get caught up on the bow itself. when bowhunting and learning to bowhunt, the bow itself is the least of your worries........... with that said......... don't get hung up on speed when buying your bow. too many people forget that bowhunting is about stealth and "the game" is played at close range....... if you need speed to extend your range, keep the rifle in your hands. just about any 50lb@28" compound on the planet these days will blow through critters with absolutely no problem. heck, i blew clear through a big wisconsin buck this year (2 ribs total) and as the arrow came out, it filleted the off side rear leg between the knee and hock (steep quartering to shot) before the broadhead burried into a fallen branch. the buck i killed here in WA got two ribs busted and an off side leg busted (no passthrough). both of these were with a RECURVE PULLING 43@28"!!!!! i've burried arrows up to the fletch with 50lb recurves and longbows on big bulls and never, not had an exit wound on elk with those same weight stickbows which put out probably 1/3 the energy of todays compounds. make sure you find the most forgiving bow possible vs. the fastest.... trust me when i say that foam and flesh are two different animals... i have seen guys that can circumsize a gnat at 50 yards but when that buck steps infront of them, they can't remember their first name let alone keeping proper form and following through when shooting at that live critter..... and with these newer highly reflexed bows with crazy let-off, good form is not an option, it is manditory.... by the way, a buck or bull that just had an arrow pass through it can't tell the difference if the arrow was going 180fps or 280fps (none of my deer, bears, elk or caribou could but i guess none of them lived long enough for me to ask them either   )..... and both speeds will produce passthroughs with the right broadheads. with bows, you always give up something to get something. it's too bad nobody makes the good old truly forgiving compounds anymore. regardless, arrow placement is MUCH more important than draw weight or arrow speed..... you hit the thick part of a shoulder plate on an elk, moose, or hog, and it is game over nearly every single time...... doesn't matter how fast your bow is. practice with whatever you have and be honest with yourself as to what your max effective shooting range is..... if that means you are proficient at 15 yards, hold off on a 20 yard shot.

like i said before, the bow is not nearly as important as learning how to get within bow range of game. it is amazing how many guys i know and have met over the years that have the latest and greatest equipment, spend every second of free time at the range (and some are phenominal shots) but very rarely put game on the ground, let alone mature animals. scouting and learning about your quary is the key.... spend 90% of your time scouting and 10% shooting your bow and you will be deadly.

[bow4elk]

too many guys get caught up on the bow itself. when bowhunting and learning to bowhunt, the bow itself is the least of your worries........... but......... don't get hung up on speed. just about any 50lb@28" compound on the planet these days will blow through critters with absolutely no problem. heck, i blew clear through a big wisconsin buck this year (2 ribs total) and as the arrow came out, it filleted the off side rear leg between the knee and hock before the broadhead burried into a fallen branch. the buck i killed here got two ribs busted and an off side leg busted (no passthrough). both of these were with a RECURVE PULLING 43@28"!!!!! i've burried arrows up to the fletch with 50lb recurves and longbows on big bulls. make sure you find the most forgiving bow possible vs. the fastest. with bows, you always give up something to get something. it's too bad nobody makes the good old truly forgiving compounds anymore. regardless, arrow placement is MUCH more important than draw weight or arrow speed..... you hit the thick part of a shoulder plate on an elk, moose, or hog, and it is game over nearly every single time...... doesn't matter how fast your bow is. practice with whatever you have and be honest with yourself as to what your max effective shooting range is..... if that means you are proficient at 15 yards, hold off on a 20 yard shot.

like i said before, the bow is not nearly as important as learning how to get within bow range of game. scouting is the key.... spend 90% of your time scouting and 10% shooting your bow and you will be deadly.

Excellent stuff!  To your point about FPS, I always say that fast bows just miss faster.  Shot placement and razor sharp broadheads are the keys to quick, humane kills, period.  Welcome to the site, by the way!

[lilswab]

too many guys get caught up on the bow itself. when bowhunting and learning to bowhunt, the bow itself is the least of your worries........... but......... don't get hung up on speed. just about any 50lb@28" compound on the planet these days will blow through critters with absolutely no problem. heck, i blew clear through a big wisconsin buck this year (2 ribs total) and as the arrow came out, it filleted the off side rear leg between the knee and hock before the broadhead burried into a fallen branch. the buck i killed here got two ribs busted and an off side leg busted (no passthrough). both of these were with a RECURVE PULLING 43@28"!!!!! i've burried arrows up to the fletch with 50lb recurves and longbows on big bulls. make sure you find the most forgiving bow possible vs. the fastest. with bows, you always give up something to get something. it's too bad nobody makes the good old truly forgiving compounds anymore. regardless, arrow placement is MUCH more important than draw weight or arrow speed..... you hit the thick part of a shoulder plate on an elk, moose, or hog, and it is game over nearly every single time...... doesn't matter how fast your bow is. practice with whatever you have and be honest with yourself as to what your max effective shooting range is..... if that means you are proficient at 15 yards, hold off on a 20 yard shot.

like i said before, the bow is not nearly as important as learning how to get within bow range of game. scouting is the key.... spend 90% of your time scouting and 10% shooting your bow and you will be deadly.

Excellent stuff!  To your point about FPS, I always say that fast bows just miss faster.  Shot placement and razor sharp broadheads are the keys to quick, humane kills, period.  Welcome to the site, by the way!

Great points guys.  Effective shooting range. Just because you have pins does not mean you can KILL out that distance effectively.  I ran into many hunters that gamble on questionable shots because they don't try to get closer.     It just doesn't make sense to wound an animal!  Know yourself, Know your prey, Know your equipment!

[blackveltbowhunter]

  Lots of good advice here. Here are some of my random ramblings hope they make a little sense- As stated before dont get to hung up on equipment, but..... be confident with it whatever your choices are. Second guessing sights, rest, bow,arrows etc.... may seem foolish to others but will affect YOUR performance cuz you begin to doubt yourself. And practice, practice, practice! Shooting your bow whether traditional or compound should be like second nature to you.
     Archery hunting is far different from rifle and can be frustrating depending on the tactics you have perfected in your rifle hunting years. Example: If you have primarily hunted deer from treestands, ground blinds, or are an excellent still hunter, the transition to archery hunting may require only moderate tweaking to your tactics. If you have hunted spot and stalk on the other hand, drastic changes in technique are sure to follow.
For elk a six point bull at 300 yards feeding will pump u up, the same bull at 20 yards, slobbering, bugling, and thrashing may cause you to have a heart attack, much less hold your composure through a shot sequence and follow through.
     Pay attention to an animals posture. Body angle, and level of alertness. IMHO this is priorty number one prior to taking a shot. I may get razzed for this but here goes; in my experience your better off taking the first shot you KNOW you can make at an undisturbed animal, than a closer or clearer one at game ALERTED to your presence.

[halflife65]

Blackvelt, you're unethical.  I would only shoot at XX yards (pick a number) and you don't have the ability to shoot that far, so you shouldn't.  There, took care of that.

Now that I've unfairly blasted Blackvelt, the advice is actually really good.