bow draw weight for elk?

[OltHunter]

this will be my first season bowhunting, i drew the multiseason elk and always wanted to try bow hunting for them.  here's what i was curious about.  i got a 60-70 hoyt magnatec xt2000 with a 70% let off.  now i initially had it set up for 70 pound pull, at 32.5 inches.  i could shoot field points out to 50 yards with good success but once i put the broadheads on it seemed like they would curve to the side or sink down, i couldn't really get a good pattern.  now after a shoulder injury, i knocked it down to 60 pounds, and was out shooting today and i could pattern my broadheads like my field points, they flew straight and i didn't have any problems.  it also seemed like i was getting the same penetration through my "black hole" target as i did with the 70 pound pull.  could this be true?

now i know that i should shoot a bow setup that is the most accurate but i want enough energy and power to ethically kill an elk.  so i was wondering if a 60 pound pull at 32.5 inches with 125 grain thunderheads and easton gamegetter 300 aluminum shafts (the heavy ones) will do the job?  i think i'm going to wait a little until my shoulder gets better and move up a pound at a time until i can get the most pull and the most accuracy.  i'm a 6'7" 220 ex pro ball player, so i'm not over drawing and really don't feel any difference between a 60 and a 70 pull, so i was curious if there is a speed that broadheads wont be as accurate or is it just a setup issue, i.e. nock point, rest, etc., that could cause this problem.  any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated.  thanks in advance.

[WAcoyotehunter]

Hitting the right spot is most important.  You'll be fine at 60 lbs.

[boneaddict]

He is correct about 60 pounds.  I'm not even going to pretend to understand the relationship between shooting broadheads and target points.  Its a real pain to practice all summer then realize your broadheads don't shoot anywhere close to your target points.  It does have to do with poundage, spine of the arrow, selection of broadheads etc.  i try to choose broadheads that shoot the same as my target points.  That personal preference thing.  There are thousands of articles out there on how to tune your arrows and broadheads.  I don't understand any of them.  Keep shooting and soon it will come together.  I'm winging mine at 85 pounds.  Both traditional and compound, with a %45 let off I believe.  I've never shot anything with the let off you are using.  I can almost imagine that might have something to do with it, but don't know for sure.  I'm just thinking of the torque?

[funkster]

 This is a touchy subject so I will approach with caution but here is the basics that I have found to hold true.The more poundage equals faster arrow speed, which intern equals you can shoot a heavier arrow and still shoot pretty flat for further shots(40 yards up)which is key here out west. Kinetic energy is really the most important number for taking big game animals. To find your bows kinetic energy you start with this simple formula, arrow speed squared x arrow weight divided by 450,240.This will give you your bows kinetic energy in ft lbs. I know opinion's will differ as to what the lowest number should be. From the research I found, alot of pro's say no less than 52lbs of kinetic energy for hunting elk,bear..ect.  I shoot a Hoyt Vetrix with a 30 inch draw set at 77lbs shooting a  477 grain easton axis arrow at 298 ft per second for 94 ft lbs of kinetic energy. It will blow an arrow almost through anything you can find in the back yard 2x6,3/4 inch plywood,phone books and even a tire. Don't get me wrong here, I agree 100% there is nothing to substitute good shot placement which does not need high poundage. However I feel things don't always go as planned especially in the field and I wan't to know if I hit the shoulder blade of an elk by accident it will go through.

BTW,if you are having problems with accuracy switching from field points to broadheads, I would suggest switching over to bohning blazer vanes and slick trick broadheads. You will be amazed as to how close they fly to field points and how they need little if any tuning.

[OltHunter]

thanks for the input, i was checking my arrows and noticed that the arrows that had the broadheads blades in the same position as the fletching flew a lot more consistent.  i practiced a little this weekend using just one arrow at a time and shooting one for about 5 shots.  the shoulder felt alright so i decided to up the poundage.  i had blades that lined up perfectly with the vanes and other that were inbetween the vanes, and i noticed that all the arrows flew true at 60 pounds but while i upped the poundage and thus the speed the ones that weren't lined up would curve off course while the others stayed pretty true.  as of right now i'm pretty sure i found my problem.  it seems like the more lined up the blades are with the vanes the better they flew at faster speeds.  i don't know if this is common knowledge or if the alignment doesn't really matter, but it seemed to help me. thanks again

[boneaddict]

What you are doing is basically how I figured mine out.  Then make sure you  mark where the blades are and put fresh blades in in the fall, or fresh points in the same position.

[General Disarray]

My question is are you 7' 2" or just part gorilla? 32.5" draw length or is that the length of your arrow?

[boneaddict]

Here are my statistics....I'm 6'5 and I shoot a 31 inch draw, and even with an overdraw, I shoot 29 inch arrows.  It sure helps with speed when winging them sharp sticks.  My longbow I shoot max length arrows, which are 31 inches I believe.

[Crunchy]

I bet the number one reason for broadheads and field tips not shooting together is an improperly tuned bow.  I had the same problem in the past, but have done all the proper tuning to my bow and no difference at all.

[jackelope]

Here are my statistics....I'm 6'5 and I shoot a 31 inch draw, and even with an overdraw, I shoot 29 inch arrows.  It sure helps with speed when winging them sharp sticks.  My longbow I shoot max length arrows, which are 31 inches I believe.

I always thought an overdraw was illegal in WA. way back when when i used to shoot a bow in new york, i had an overdraw, which is nice because it allows you to shoot shorter stiffer arrows when you are a lanky 30.5" draw like me. at least that was back when there wasn't no such thing as carbon arrows.

[Machias]

Nope overdraws are legal, here are the restrictions concerning arrow length and weight.  "It is illegal to hunt big game animals with any arrow, including broadhead, measuring less than 20 inches in length, weighing less than 6 grains per pound of draw weight with a minimum arrow weight of 300 grains, and having sharp broadhead blade or blades less than seven-eighths inches wide."

60 pounds with those arrows will blow right though a properly hit elk.  Do yourself and the sport of bowhunting a big favor though, in hunting conditions don't shoot over 40-45 yards, and in most instances on deer that is even pushing it.  Makes no difference how good you are on stationary target in practice.  You can be dead on and hit EXACTLY where you were aiming when you released the arrow, doesn't mean the animal will still be standing there in the same angle and spot as when you released.  If you want to take those 50 yard and beyond shots you should take up muzzle loading, IMO.

[jackelope]

not sure why i ever thought they were illegal...maybe because of the weight restrictions.

[boneaddict]

I agree with you about shooting distance Machias.  I don't ever intend to shoot anything over 40 yards.  In fact 30 yards or less is where I like to be shooting.  I'm sure my bow has the capabilities to shoot at 80 yards, but I think thats un-ethical.  In fact, I'm not sure I've killed anything at over 30 yards or have taken a shot at anything over 30.

I hope overdraws aren't illegal.  That would be BAD since I just admitted to having one on my bow.

[jackelope]

olthunter...how is the black hole target holding up to the broadheads?
i bought one too and it seems to do ok with the field tips but i haven't shot any broadheads into it.
seems to be an ok target for the $$ and the small amount i'll be shooting at home.

[OltHunter]

general disarray....i believe my arrows are 31.5, and i wouldn't say that i have gorilla portions, i read a guide that said divide your wingspan by 2.5 as a starting point and it gave me inbetween 31.5 and 32 and drawing it felt the most comfortable and gave me the best anchor point at 32.5 so i stuck with it. 

i have four pins, at 10,20,30,40.  i'm proud of my hunting ethics and standards and know that it can be done but i wouldn't ever shoot past 45 yards.  i wasn't trying to look for more speed and power so i could shoot farther. 

jackelope.....yeah it does great with target points and i would say the target is holding up alright with broadheads.  i would say one spot can take about 5 hits before there's a little bit of a chunk out but I have never had an arrow go through and they have to hit in the exact same place.  some would go all the way to the vanes and stop.  i would definitely recommend trying to move spots on the target around, but with that said it has taken a beating with broadheads and is holding up.  usually when i pull out an arrow it takes a portion of the plastic with it, about 2 inches long. i've probably shot about 30-40 times into the center of the target with broadheads..