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Author Topic: Question for bank drift fisherman  (Read 13371 times)

Offline TommyH

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #45 on: January 15, 2012, 08:39:13 AM »
 I put some flouro on my pole and used it one trip for steelhead, my last eyelet has grooves in it all from the 6 oclock to the 9 oclock, i was bank fishing and it just destroyed the tip  :bash: :bash: any one else had that problem? it was an ugly stick lite 8foot6, now i will not even use it cause i no that i will be putting nicks in my line and the big one will get away! :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(

Offline RadSav

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #46 on: January 15, 2012, 09:20:20 AM »
That's a new one to me.  Most guys don't like the Flouro for leader because it is too soft and not abrasion resistant.  That's the type of thing I only hear about braided line.  And very few of those with the new guide systems.  No way flouro would be more abrasive to ceramic composite guides than other polymer line materials.

Few people use flouro as a main line because it usually has too much memory.
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Offline Huntbear

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #47 on: January 15, 2012, 09:23:50 AM »
I put some flouro on my pole and used it one trip for steelhead, my last eyelet has grooves in it all from the 6 oclock to the 9 oclock, i was bank fishing and it just destroyed the tip  :bash: :bash: any one else had that problem? it was an ugly stick lite 8foot6, now i will not even use it cause i no that i will be putting nicks in my line and the big one will get away! :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(

You sure you did not get braid on there?  I am agreeing with above post.  Flourocarbon line does not cut into guides like that. 
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Offline TommyH

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #48 on: January 15, 2012, 09:37:50 AM »
I put some flouro on my pole and used it one trip for steelhead, my last eyelet has grooves in it all from the 6 oclock to the 9 oclock, i was bank fishing and it just destroyed the tip  :bash: :bash: any one else had that problem? it was an ugly stick lite 8foot6, now i will not even use it cause i no that i will be putting nicks in my line and the big one will get away! :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(

You sure you did not get braid on there?  I am agreeing with above post.  Flourocarbon line does not cut into guides like that.

No i am sure, i have never put a braid on that pole or any pole, I used mono and flouro, i noticed the grooves after the flouro was on it for one weekend, maybe it was just a bad tip? :dunno:

Offline Huntbear

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #49 on: January 15, 2012, 09:53:02 AM »
Tips are easy to replace if you have not already done so. 

That is weird, had to be a bad guide.  I used to bass fish and used a lot of flourocarbon line, NEVER did it ruin a guide... :dunno: :dunno:
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Offline RadSav

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #50 on: January 15, 2012, 10:14:52 AM »
Guides on some of the older Uglystiks would chip rather easy.  How old is it?  Most of your good tackle pro-shops will have that thing looking like new in a jiffy.  I'd give one a call and take it in.  Sounds like a good reason to do some shopping!
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Offline Bone_Collector

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #51 on: January 15, 2012, 01:55:17 PM »
Your swivel may have been the culprit with the tip of the rod the rod tips are easy to replace and like said before a good sporting goods shop will be able to take care of that for you!

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Offline TheHunt

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #52 on: January 15, 2012, 04:17:15 PM »
I have only used seaguar fluorocarbon.  I have 10 lb, 12, and 27 lb strength.  I do not get the 27 lb out much.   I use 10 lb Maxima for my main line when drift fishing.  Then I use 12 Seaguar for the leader. You have to check your leader often for cuts and nicks like was stated above.  You can just run the leader between your fingers to feel there is anything really bad and a need to replace it.
 
With Fluorocarbon you have to spit on your knots before you tighten the knot and also the slower you should pull the knot tight or it will cut/burn into the line and make a weak knot.  For jig and bobber it is the ticket in my opinion with clear water as I use 30lb main line braid high vis.  I also use a med lite rod with not too much backbone so it is really almost a noodle rod to help those big jolts a steelhead will do to the line.  Fluorocorbon does not stretch.  So if you have braid for main line to your float than fluoro on your float leader you best have a lots of play with your rod.  As said before it is brittle line.  But that line is invisable in the water. 

But  without a dought it is great in gin clear water. 

Here is the picture of Seaguar Fluorocarbon.  You have to be very careful with the line but for gin clear water it is the ticket in my book. 



Here is the fish that came from the Grande Ronde in January when I took my son back to WSU.  I was using fluorocarbon to a wad of eggs. 

« Last Edit: January 15, 2012, 07:21:09 PM by TheHunt »
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Offline KopperBuck

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #53 on: January 15, 2012, 07:26:38 PM »

 
With Fluorocarbon you have to spit on your knots before you tighten the knot and also the slower you should pull the knot tight or it will cut/burn into the line and make a weak knot.  For jig and bobber it is the ticket in my opinion with clear water as I use 30lb main line braid high vis.  I also use a med lite rod with not too much backbone so it is really almost a noodle rod to help those big jolts a steelhead will do to the line.  Fluorocorbon does not stretch.  So if you have braid for main line to your float than fluoro on your float leader you best have a lots of play with your rod.  As said before it is brittle line.  But that line is invisable in the water. 

But  without a dought it is great in gin clear water. 

Here is the picture of Seaguar Fluorocarbon.  You have to be very careful with the line but for gin clear water it is the ticket in my book.


Very true, on all accounts. Especially the knot care. I wet every knot before it's drawn down, but especially so with FL. If I get a line wrap that's not proper, it's cut and retie. Great pic by the way, why I go with it as much as I can, and the sink rate is exceptional.

Offline huntnnw

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #54 on: January 15, 2012, 09:47:53 PM »
my knots were not breaking...any nick on the line it would break there..just overall when u use a certain line for so many years you get use to its breaking point..the P-line was nothing...just yanking real hard on a snag I could snap any leader...not with maxima could I do that unless it was a leader with some wear or an a rock

Offline TheHunt

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #55 on: January 16, 2012, 07:53:19 AM »
my knots were not breaking...any nick on the line it would break there..just overall when u use a certain line for so many years you get use to its breaking point..the P-line was nothing...just yanking real hard on a snag I could snap any leader...not with maxima could I do that unless it was a leader with some wear or an a rock
Yep, you are right on target.  With the Fluoro gain stealth/invisablility but at the same time you loose that toughness.  That is why I like using it for float fishing.  Using it for drift fishing and it is going to be a gamble.
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Offline teal101

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #56 on: January 16, 2012, 09:30:52 AM »
I put some flouro on my pole and used it one trip for steelhead, my last eyelet has grooves in it all from the 6 oclock to the 9 oclock, i was bank fishing and it just destroyed the tip  :bash: :bash: any one else had that problem? it was an ugly stick lite 8foot6, now i will not even use it cause i no that i will be putting nicks in my line and the big one will get away! :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(

Any line can groove guides, even mono.  It's not the line itself that grooves the guides, it's the sediments in the water on the line that does it.  Braid is notorious for this because it is porous and absorbs water and the sediments in the water.  So long as your line gets wet, it can groove your guides.  If it is just the tip and the tip is not wrapped and epoxied you should be able to take a lighter to the tip.  This will melt the glue in the tip and you can pop it off.  Get a guide replacement kit which will have the glue and guide tops and re-apply.  Tip tops are pretty easy.  That or take it to your local rod builder :IBCOOL:

Offline teal101

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #57 on: January 16, 2012, 09:34:50 AM »
my knots were not breaking...any nick on the line it would break there..just overall when u use a certain line for so many years you get use to its breaking point..the P-line was nothing...just yanking real hard on a snag I could snap any leader...not with maxima could I do that unless it was a leader with some wear or an a rock

Fluoro has NO STRETCH.  There is no shock absorption there at all.  It's akin to braid in this quality.  Applying a quick yank can and generally will cause fluoro to snap if there is no give.  You need to re-learn how to set the hook and release snags with fluoro and braid alike.  I generally use a copolymer instead of straight fluoro on my rigs.  I may switch to copoly on my leaders this year as I went from a MH rod to a H rod with a stiffer backbone and I fear I might snap my 15lb fluoro leader since I use a braid mainline.  With copoly it is near invisible in the water, more abrasion resistant than fluoro, and so far has had less memory than mono for me.  I use either Yo-Zuri copoly or P-line fluoroclear.

Offline huntnnw

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #58 on: January 16, 2012, 09:40:14 PM »
my 8lb maxima chamelion and power pro braid is my drift set up of choice for the summer run over here...12lb on the clearwater river ;)

Offline huntnphool

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Re: Question for bank drift fisherman
« Reply #59 on: January 16, 2012, 09:57:54 PM »
People use 4' leaders or longer for one reason, to floss fish.  :bdid:

 Respectfully I disagree as well. I use a 4-6' leaders as well and not for flossing but to get a more natual drift. If you study hydro or "fluid Dynamics" you will understand where river fish sit in order to conserve energy. Often times this is directly behind structure that a short leader will not allow the bait to get to. With a longer leader, the line is able to naturally bend with the flow of the current, around the rocks and closer to the fish. With a short leader, the bait will not have the length required to move in behind your typical river size rocks as well as a longer leader will. Of course there is a whole lot more to it, river depth, weight used, river speed etc, but you get the idea. :twocents:

 
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