bow press and bare shaft tuning help

[earlmarne]

i went n shot an unfletched shaft today at around 15 yards and im consistently gettin the arrow twisted with the nock left and  hitting to the right of my aim point.im hoping theres someone with a bow press and some knowledge that can help me out here in spokane

[Button Nubbs]

What do you need a press for? Did you try adjusting the rest?

[earlmarne]

well i dont know much about all of this.but i paper tuned n got the rest shooting without any rips but now from what i read over on archerytalk i want to put twists in my yolk or buss cables to straighten it out for bareshaft tuning.as said though idk much except for what i read this is only my second month with a bow in my hand n i really want to get proficient enough to hit the woods soon.pretty positive i have my centershot squared away but then again idk wtf im doin here

[BULLBLASTER]

can you post some info about your set up? DL, DW, arrow spine and length and tip weight?
this will help to make sure that you are shooting the right spine for the set up. you are correct in that adding twists to the yoke will move the bare shaft toward the fletched if you add twists to the side where the fletched are shooting. but this will not help if you are shooting the incorrect spine.
i am in spokane, but dont have a press. i am heading to evergreen archery in the morning if you want to head out i can try and help out some. i will be broadhead tuning there.

[Button Nubbs]

hmmm i always thought you could bare shaft tune by adjusting the rest, like broadhead tuning only more precise. ive done it my way and any broadhead i screw on will hit same point of impact as my field tips. ill have to look more into that.

[earlmarne]

im shooting a crx 32 at 30 inch draw.i think im at 72 lbs my arrows are ics hunter 340 spine,they are cut at 30 n a quarter or 30 i cant remember n thats with 100 grain field point.ive went n broke all but 2 of my arrows so i think i will be best to wait till friday when i get paid n get back out to white tail plus n get some more arrows.i think i will be downloading the application for evergreen archery also so i can start getting out there.id love to take you up on your offer another time if possible.i have many questions about my form and anchor points n such.is this spine within reason for my specs?i think my arrows are weighing in at 420.i would really like to pack some more on em but dont want to shell out the cash for fmjs

[Button Nubbs]

with that draw length arrow length and poundage you may be better off with 300. a 30" draw + 72lbs + 30"arrow = wet noondle

[earlmarne]

think so?do they make the ics hunter in a 300 spine ?that would give me some room to stack some weight on the tip too n get better foc and total weight.

[Button Nubbs]

i believe they do but you may want to buy one of the spine selection programs out there before you go out buying a bunch of different shafts. it sounds like you would be better off with .300's or cutting a bit off of your arrows to stiffen em up a little but  without the program infront of me.

[BULLBLASTER]

i would be more than happy to meet you at the range and help you out all thiat i can. just PM me when you are ready.
i too would look at trying some .300 spine arrows, they will probably shoot better and weigh a bit more. i think greg mighht have some in stock at Whitetail Plus (good choice on shop as well!  ) i get pretty busy on the weekends this month but could meet you in the week. i am actually planning to be at WT plus some next saturday also.

[earlmarne]

alright,thanks man ill def. take you up on that soon.

[jechicdr]

You can download for free from Pinwheel Software the OnTarget program.  You can get figure out perfect length, spine, and weight of the tip you should put on there to get the FOC percentage you want.  If that is all you need, then you don't have to buy the program.  It's inexpensive enough though, that you might buy it for other features, or in case you buy another bow, or change arrows, or sights (can also print sight tapes).  I suspect you would be better off with a 300 spine arrow and a heavier tip (at least 125 if not 150 grain).

[earlmarne]

thats cool as hell.i had ballistic software for my pellet rifles,never thought about it for my bows.im downloading it right now.i like the idea of bn able to stack more weight up front.im in the process of trying to trade for a brand new strothers sx 1 as we speak n i may just be swithing everything over anyhow.i think this bow is way too small for me

[RadSav]

well i dont know much about all of this.but i paper tuned n got the rest shooting without any rips but now from what i read over on archerytalk i want to put twists in my yolk or buss cables to straighten it out for bareshaft tuning.as said though idk much except for what i read this is only my second month with a bow in my hand n i really want to get proficient enough to hit the woods soon.pretty positive i have my centershot squared away but then again idk wtf im doin here

What brought you to the conclusion you needed to play with your yoke or buss cables after shooting perfect holes through paper? 

Archerytalk is a dangerous place for the novice.  I will never ever recommend it to even veteran archers.

[earlmarne]

well i went n was shootin at 19 yards n tore one of my fletchings off from grouping so i had a lightbulb pop up n i tore the rest off n shot it baRE shaft at about 10 yards n got my arrow was comin in sideways.seems from what i read i needed to do some tunin,but now it would seem i need to get the correct spine n try again.idk im anal as hell about my equipment n have found out the hard way many times i should have had a pro mess with my stuff but eventually i know my equipment as i know myself  n with a tool tasked with such an important role i would like to know it as best i can.i just need some guidance so as to lessen the learning curve