Bow "jumpy"

[hntrspud]

Started shooting my new bow, and I noticed that when I release, it seems like it wants to jump one way or the other. I have been able to get decent groups, but I would like to make them smaller. What causes this? Diamond Infinite Edge, 30" 60lbs

[buckfvr]

Left right, or out of your hand ?

[hntrspud]

The bow jumps, doesnt come out of my hand, but my old bow was much heavier also. Left I think

[CoryTDF]

Not and expert but I call that " Hand shock" and it can really be felt in older bows without parallel limbs. do you have a stabilizer on it. That can help offset weight and help bring the bow forward.

My wife shoots a Diamond Razor Edge and it's nice and smooth.

[MtnMuley]

How do you like that bow?  I just ordered one yesterday for a friend.  Draw lengths from like 15"-31" and poundage from 5-70#.  Price was great as well.

[buckfvr]

Going only by the pictures I could find, it appears the bow design is somewhere between parallel and reflex, more to parallel though but still, there will be some energy expelled forward rather than just up and down by the truer parallel designs that cancell out most of the shock by expelling energy in opposite, cancelling directions.

This, along with the short axle to axle length will make the bow more apt to move around after the shot.

I would be sure and use a wrist sling and make sure you are not extending or flexing the fingers on your bow hand......relax the hand and allow the bow to sink in a bit and find the sweet spot.  A different grip may help as well.....Torqueless or another.

[Special T]

Is it possible your draw length is a little long? I have heard that "jumpy" description used by people who needed to have the draw lenght shortened a little. 1/2 to an inch?

[Stick em]

Is it possible your draw length is a little long? I have heard that "jumpy" description used by people who needed to have the draw lenght shortened a little. 1/2 to an inch?

Does it jump after you release or as your releasing. That is a great bow but has a really short axle for a 30" draw. This bow was designed to grow with the archer and at 60#/30" it sounds like you could do with a much larger bow. Having a shorter axle bow means you need great form.

[RadSav]

Jumping or twisting?  Do you notice it after the shot or while it is happening during the shot?  Do you have a bow quiver on it?  Are you shooting with a bow sling?

3# bow is pretty dang light.  At 30" draw and 60# things are going to jump a bit.  But we might be able to manage it with answers to those questions.

[Old Dog]

I've noticed that the cam timing is off on a lot of the Infinite Edge bows.  That may be your problem.

[hntrspud]

Jumping or twisting?  Do you notice it after the shot or while it is happening during the shot?  Do you have a bow quiver on it?  Are you shooting with a bow sling?

3# bow is pretty dang light.  At 30" draw and 60# things are going to jump a bit.  But we might be able to manage it with answers to those questions.

To be honest I really like the bow. It shoots insanely fast compared to my older bow. My older bow had an inch longer draw, but I find this to be much more comfortable. I can find my anchor point every single time without thinking with this bow. Would it help to lower the lbs to 55?

I seem to notice it during the shot. Twisting is a better description. I have the stock quiver but will be changing that as it is noisy. I have a bow sling, yes. I did notice that I had it a little loose, so I tightened it up. I do have a tru-glo stabilizer, 4 oz.

[hntrspud]

and I also was used to having my hand completely relaxed on my other bow, could that also have an affect? How do I change my grip?

[RadSav]

Keep that sling loose!!! 
55# is not going to make a difference. 

Sounds like it is nothing more that a lightweight bow with a heavy quiver attached.  There could be some issue with trigger pull from a form standpoint, but I expect that would only effect things a little.  Longer heavier stabilizer would probably do wonders.  As would getting a lighter quiver that mounts extra close to the bow.  Sims Windjammer stabilizer with Balance System mounted on the front or a BeeStinger Pro Hunter would be my suggestions for stabilizers on that light of a bow.  Side quiver, two piece quiver or something similar to the Tight Spot would also reduce the twisting.

Cam timing is an occasional issue with those bows since they are a simple two cam system.  However, timing issues would give you a Jump rather than a Twist.  That's why I asked to clarify that.  Does not sound like that is your problem.

[hntrspud]

What length of stabilizer should I look for and what can I expect to pay? I just want to make sure that when I am looking around that I don't overpay. The current quiver holds the arrows close, but they rattle on the site. It is a 2 piece.

[hntrspud]

It also has the stock site on it. I suppose I should upgrade, but it all adds up. I am trying to get everything working before season and don't want to break the bank.

[RadSav]

It has been a long time since I went out and bought a stabilizer so all I can do is guess at price.  But I'd guess the Bee Stinger 10" with a decent weight might run 80 -$100.00.  Sims Windjammer w/Balance I'm guessing at 50-$60.00.

I would be feeding you a line of bull pucky if I were to tell you exactly what length and weight you needed.  Since I can not see what and how severe the issue is.  This is the type of trouble shooting where a good well stocked pro shop is invaluable!  Most good shops that carry Bee Stringer will have the components available for you to try on their range.  I doubt you will need to go 12" or at the heaviest weight.  With a light weight bow a small amount of weight will make a big difference.  8 - 10" should be enough to manage the twisting.  Just need to get out and shoot some to see what you like and what gives you the best combination of advantages.

As far as quiver...I wish I had a sure fix for you there.  Problem is most quivers these days are high priced garbage. The Tight Spot has a loyal following, but I theorize that has more to do with how bad the others are rather than how good it is.  I used the Tight Spot all of last year on my Bear Anarchy and despised it greatly!  Problem was, on that bow, it was my best option and there was no better choice.  I bet I dropped a grand on quivers trying to find something better and failed to do so.  I've begun trading and swapping for older Hoyt two piece quivers.  Then spending the time and money to modify them to work with the newer and different brands of bows. 

The quiver options are so bad these days we have started dropping some serious change on R&D to develop something new and universal.  But that could take years to finalize and get to market.

Hope you get things under control.  And since you say you are shooting it well I expect you will! 

[hntrspud]

Well I went out and got a limbsaver system with the balance. Its the same as the simms windjammer. 10". My question is, do I put the weight on the opposite side of the pull? If its going left, then put it on the right? Also, if you put the puck  weight we'll call it, farther away from center of the stabilizer, does that pull more to that side. I know it may be basic physics, but still not sure. I also notice that with this bow the arrows are about an inch to inch and a half long. That make a big difference?

[RadSav]

Length of arrows should not make any difference on twist/jump.  Generally you want the puck to help offset the weight of your quiver.  So start with it at 3:00 and slowly adjust 3:30, 4:00, 4:30...to find the best position for you.  It's nice if you don't have it sticking straight out at 3:00, but if that's what it takes to make you comfortable it is what it is.  With the extra weight extended from the grip and the light bow 6:00 might be all that is needed.  You just won't know until you shoot it.

If you have continued issues try posting up a video of you shooting.  There may be other things at play.