Bow Tuning - help!

[buckfvr]

I didnt want to have to suggest that or explain it.........

[halfpipe88]

Thanks guys.  I'll play with my rest and see if that changes it.  I have caught myself a few times tilting my bow, but it does still do it when I consciously hold it straight.  Thanks for all the tips!

[sirfunkeybut]

Any chance it could be the yoke? I can't remember the symptoms but its a part of tuning a bow

[JLS]

You can impart hand torque on a bow with a relaxed grip.  Many folks don't understand this, so they overlook hand torque as a possible issue. 

Bareshaft tuning is another good way to tell what your arrow is doing as it comes off of the bow.

[jechicdr]

The French tuning takes into account the right/left difference between close and far shot.  The impact point of the arrow at close distance is determined more by the position of the rest relative to center shot (the arrow after it leaves the bow will then try to correct its flight).  The impact point at far distances is determined by where the bow wants to shoot the arrow (a function of the bow and the arrow stiffness, weight, etc).  To French tune, you shoot at a vertical line on a target 9 feet away.  If arrow hits left, move pin(s) to left until impact point is on line.  Then shoot at 10 or more yards at vertical line.  If grouping is to left of line, then move rest to right and vice versa.  You are essentially moving the impact point of the closer shot by moving the rest in the direction that the far shot is hitting.  Then repeat process over and over until distant shots and close shots are hitting the line.

[Todd_ID]

The French tuning takes into account the right/left difference between close and far shot.  The impact point of the arrow at close distance is determined more by the position of the rest relative to center shot (the arrow after it leaves the bow will then try to correct its flight).  The impact point at far distances is determined by where the bow wants to shoot the arrow (a function of the bow and the arrow stiffness, weight, etc).  To French tune, you shoot at a vertical line on a target 9 feet away.  If arrow hits left, move pin(s) to left until impact point is on line.  Then shoot at 10 or more yards at vertical line.  If grouping is to left of line, then move rest to right and vice versa.  You are essentially moving the impact point of the closer shot by moving the rest in the direction that the far shot is hitting.  Then repeat process over and over until distant shots and close shots are hitting the line.

This "modified" french tuning works well.  You can fix a lot of tuning problems with sticking to this one program. 

A laser level works very well for creating the vertical line you are shooting at; getting close to the line doesn't count: you've got to hit it exactly, otherwise you'll end up with a headache in tuning later down the road. 

Move the sight frame only at 10' until you hit the line and the rest horizontally only at 10 yards until you hit the line.  Go back to 10' and move the sight frame only and back to 10 yards and move the rest only.  A few times back and forth, and the rest and sight frame are set.  All that's left to do is broadhead tuning at 40 yards to get the nock height/rest elevation set to where broadheads and field points hit the same, and then set the pin gaps for the yardages.

With this system you can tune your bow in an hour with about 50 shots, and the end result is excellent broadhead flight and, more importantly, confidence in your shooting and the ability to re-tune anytime you want/need.

[halfpipe88]

A trip to Ranch & Home for some help turned into leaving my bow overnight to get a new cable & string, re-timing the cams, and re-centering the rest and it appears to be back on track!

[bowtech experience]

just look up french tune on youtube and do that, itl solve your problem if its not hand torque or another issue

[bankwalker]

The French tuning takes into account the right/left difference between close and far shot.  The impact point of the arrow at close distance is determined more by the position of the rest relative to center shot (the arrow after it leaves the bow will then try to correct its flight).  The impact point at far distances is determined by where the bow wants to shoot the arrow (a function of the bow and the arrow stiffness, weight, etc).  To French tune, you shoot at a vertical line on a target 9 feet away.  If arrow hits left, move pin(s) to left until impact point is on line.  Then shoot at 10 or more yards at vertical line.  If grouping is to left of line, then move rest to right and vice versa.  You are essentially moving the impact point of the closer shot by moving the rest in the direction that the far shot is hitting.  Then repeat process over and over until distant shots and close shots are hitting the line.

This "modified" french tuning works well.  You can fix a lot of tuning problems with sticking to this one program. 

A laser level works very well for creating the vertical line you are shooting at; getting close to the line doesn't count: you've got to hit it exactly, otherwise you'll end up with a headache in tuning later down the road. 

Move the sight frame only at 10' until you hit the line and the rest horizontally only at 10 yards until you hit the line.  Go back to 10' and move the sight frame only and back to 10 yards and move the rest only.  A few times back and forth, and the rest and sight frame are set.  All that's left to do is broadhead tuning at 40 yards to get the nock height/rest elevation set to where broadheads and field points hit the same, and then set the pin gaps for the yardages.

With this system you can tune your bow in an hour with about 50 shots, and the end result is excellent broadhead flight and, more importantly, confidence in your shooting and the ability to re-tune anytime you want/need.

Thanks for that description!!! Just went out and ran through this process. Now I'm shooting the best I've ever shot. Thanks!

[GregE]

Lots of helpful information-  WTG folks!!