Broadhead sharpening

[h20hunter]

So...Montec G5.......shot a couple for practice and want to touch up the edge. What do you guys use? I looked online and the official just looks like a flat honing surface. Would any flat surfaced wet stone be pretty much the same thing?

[Smossy]

So...Montec G5.......shot a couple for practice and want to touch up the edge. What do you guys use? I looked online and the official just looks like a flat honing surface. Would any flat surfaced wet stone be pretty much the same thing?

I think if I remember correctly it has diamond grains that help with fine sharpening, I don't think a wet-stone would work AS effectively.
That diamond plate comes with both (1200) & Rough (600) grain surfaces for bringing it down to shape, then honing in the edges.

[pianoman9701]

A flat diamond sharpener from Harbor Freight.

[hoyt2002]

flat stone will work fine. A diamond sharpener is alittle faster.

[JPhelps]

To sharpen a montec, shoot it in the bank a few times and it will most likely be sharper 

I would think a flat stone/diamond would give a less than desirable blade angle.

[Smossy]

To sharpen a montec, shoot it in the bank a few times and it will most likely be sharper 

I would think a flat stone/diamond would give a less than desirable blade angle.

I read somewhere that they designed the blade and grade of the hone (edge) around the sole purpose of it being able to be re-sharpened with the stone. I imagine it will never reach factory sharpness though.

[hoyt2002]

You can get them sharper than factory with a stone.

[724wd]

yeah, just a stone will work fine.  just did some last week!    

the montecs i have were not honed on a stone prior to leaving the factory.  you can see the striations from them being sharpened 90 degrees to the direction of travel, creating micro serrations on the blade.  when i resharpen, i run the blade with the direction of travel and use a medium-then-fine stone to remove those factory serrations, creating a much smoother edge.  now we can begin the debate for which is sharper, micro-serrated or highly polished edge    a serrated edge creates a slightly more ragged cut, and perhaps cuts better than the polished edge that make clean slices.  some make the case that the slightly ragged hole will not close up or heal as well as the slice created by a polished edge.  but a polished edge slices with less effort... so it's kind of a pick-your-poison scenario 

RadSav probably has more detailed information and opinions than i

[D-Rock425]

To sharpen a montec, shoot it in the bank a few times and it will most likely be sharper 

I would think a flat stone/diamond would give a less than desirable blade angle.

[DoubleJ]

yeah, just a stone will work fine.  just did some last week!    

the montecs i have were not honed on a stone prior to leaving the factory.  you can see the striations from them being sharpened 90 degrees to the direction of travel, creating micro serrations on the blade.  when i resharpen, i run the blade with the direction of travel and use a medium-then-fine stone to remove those factory serrations, creating a much smoother edge.  now we can begin the debate for which is sharper, micro-serrated or highly polished edge    a serrated edge creates a slightly more ragged cut, and perhaps cuts better than the polished edge that make clean slices.  some make the case that the slightly ragged hole will not close up or heal as well as the slice created by a polished edge.  but a polished edge slices with less effort... so it's kind of a pick-your-poison scenario 

RadSav probably has more detailed information and opinions than i

Not speaking for RadSav but, he has told me that slick blades do the trick better than serrated.  Serrated blade cuts can close up easier, like a zipper where slick blades cut is like trying to patch a hose that's running by putting 2 clean cut pieces back together.  It's just going to slip and slide while the blood continues to pump.

If I recall correctly anyway. 

[724wd]

you could be right... i dont remember which heals quicker

[returnofsid]

I recently purchased broadheads from White Tail Plus Pro Archery Shop, in Deer Park, WA, though for the life of me, I cannot remember they brand.  They recommended them to me and one of the selling points is that they were specifically designed to be sharpened with a flat stone.  They also sold me on their opinion that they fly very close to field tips.  I can attest to that.  With my bow sighted in, with field tips, I only had to make very minor elevation adjustments to get my broadheads sighted in.  The adjustments were so minor that my field tips still hit where I'm aiming.

Ahh, just found the packaging.  They are Magnus Snuffer SS broadheads. 

Another selling point was their Lifetime Replacement Guarantee.  As it was explained to me, you could shoot them into a brick wall, destroying the broadhead, sent it back to them and they'll send you a complete package of new replacements...

They also have another cool program.  If you harvest any game animal, with a Snuffer SS, send them a phot and testimonial and they'll send you a t-shirt or cap!  Unfortunately, I missed a huge bull Sunday! Lost an arrow and new broadhead...oh and the huge bull!

[JLS]

So...Montec G5.......shot a couple for practice and want to touch up the edge. What do you guys use? I looked online and the official just looks like a flat honing surface. Would any flat surfaced wet stone be pretty much the same thing?

Yes, sharpen these on a flat stone.  Finish them by stropping on a piece of leather and some metal polishing compound and you can get them scary sharp.

[MtnMuley]

Why don't you jsut buy the G5 sharpener from Montec .  I did, and it seems to work great.

[JLS]

yeah, just a stone will work fine.  just did some last week!    

the montecs i have were not honed on a stone prior to leaving the factory.  you can see the striations from them being sharpened 90 degrees to the direction of travel, creating micro serrations on the blade.  when i resharpen, i run the blade with the direction of travel and use a medium-then-fine stone to remove those factory serrations, creating a much smoother edge.  now we can begin the debate for which is sharper, micro-serrated or highly polished edge    a serrated edge creates a slightly more ragged cut, and perhaps cuts better than the polished edge that make clean slices.  some make the case that the slightly ragged hole will not close up or heal as well as the slice created by a polished edge.  but a polished edge slices with less effort... so it's kind of a pick-your-poison scenario 

RadSav probably has more detailed information and opinions than i

Not speaking for RadSav but, he has told me that slick blades do the trick better than serrated.  Serrated blade cuts can close up easier, like a zipper where slick blades cut is like trying to patch a hose that's running by putting 2 clean cut pieces back together.  It's just going to slip and slide while the blood continues to pump.

If I recall correctly anyway.

You are correct.

A cut that has more small tears in the tissue will release more clotting factors and thus help is close quicker.  A razor cut does not have near the tissue damage and will not release as many clotting factors as a blade that has serrations or rough edges.

[returnofsid]

yeah, just a stone will work fine.  just did some last week!    

the montecs i have were not honed on a stone prior to leaving the factory.  you can see the striations from them being sharpened 90 degrees to the direction of travel, creating micro serrations on the blade.  when i resharpen, i run the blade with the direction of travel and use a medium-then-fine stone to remove those factory serrations, creating a much smoother edge.  now we can begin the debate for which is sharper, micro-serrated or highly polished edge    a serrated edge creates a slightly more ragged cut, and perhaps cuts better than the polished edge that make clean slices.  some make the case that the slightly ragged hole will not close up or heal as well as the slice created by a polished edge.  but a polished edge slices with less effort... so it's kind of a pick-your-poison scenario 

RadSav probably has more detailed information and opinions than i

Not speaking for RadSav but, he has told me that slick blades do the trick better than serrated.  Serrated blade cuts can close up easier, like a zipper where slick blades cut is like trying to patch a hose that's running by putting 2 clean cut pieces back together.  It's just going to slip and slide while the blood continues to pump.

If I recall correctly anyway.

You are correct.

A cut that has more small tears in the tissue will release more clotting factors and thus help is close quicker.  A razor cut does not have near the tissue damage and will not release as many clotting factors as a blade that has serrations or rough edges.

Must be why surgeons use scalpels instead of steak knives...

[Jake T]

I use 400 grit sandpaper on a piece of granite countertop.  then i move to my whetstone.  i would stay with the sandpaper but the finer grits i have don't have a sticky back on them so they move around on the granite.

[Axle]

This company makes the best stuff for sharpening broadheads:

Phone (260) 563-1730
Fax (260) 563-2603

Truangle Broadhead Products
447 Euclid St.
Wabash, IN 46992

[Thefisherman83]

I use one of these on my shuttle T's.  Easy to use, works great. 

http://www.eders.com/product.php?productid=177055&gclid=CPyOn5rAjLoCFc01Qgod5w0AgA

[sakoshooter]

I've sharpened my share of broadheads over the years. Some sharpen up easy. Some sharpen up very sharp. Some just look cool. I like them hair shaving sharp. It's only got to work once but that being said, it's the only chance that broadhead is going to have.
I tried resharpening(after he tried) a quiver full of Montec broadheads of my buddies a while back and really wasn't impressed with the final outcome. They seemed very soft. Easy to sharpen but not to a satisfactory edge in my opinion. Not enough temper to reach that shaving sharp edge. My buddy had a bunch of Magnus Stingers that he switched to.

[passing-thru]

My buddy had a bunch of Magnus Stingers that he switched to.

Smart man 
I resharpen mine a couple times and then send in for the replacement blades...Love them

[DoubleJ]

Magnus.  One hell of a blade

http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,94466.msg1213623.html#msg1213623

[sakoshooter]

I've resharpened a couple Magnus Stingers. Easy to make them shave hair. I resharpened the blades on a Slick Trick Viper Trick twice. Two complete pass thru's on two deer. Shaves hair and is ready for an elk as we speak. Good steel sharpens up well.

[xXLojackXx]

I use the carbon steel Montec G5's and sharpen them on the G5 flat stone and they get pretty darn sharp. Sharp enough to kill and elk with a pass through at 54 yards. Not sure what else you could want from a broad head ? 

[Smossy]

I use the carbon steel Montec G5's and sharpen them on the G5 flat stone and they get pretty darn sharp. Sharp enough to kill and elk with a pass through at 54 yards. Not sure what else you could want from a broad head ? 
Replaceble surgical carbon blades with a titanium head.

Replacable surgical carbon blades with a titanium head.

[RadSav]

I use 400 grit sandpaper on a piece of granite countertop.  then i move to my whetstone.

   Right on track there Jake!  A lot cheaper than the big diamond flats.  Back when I shot the MA-3 and Bodkins we used a piece of glass and emery paper.  Then a honing compound on the glass.  I've since purchased a bunch of fancy high dollar stones and I don't think I have ever gotten any better results than we did back then.

I tried resharpening(after he tried) a quiver full of Montec broadheads of my buddies a while back and really wasn't impressed with the final outcome. They seemed very soft. Easy to sharpen but not to a satisfactory edge in my opinion. Not enough temper to reach that shaving sharp edge.

I have found the same thing with the stainless version.  The carbon version is better from a temper standpoint, but the MIM sintering process still lacks the purity of a quality strip steel (or the bar stuff VAP uses).  UDDEHOLM is making some gains in this area for powder sheet so the technology may not be that far away.  Just not yet.  I expect G5 will be on the cutting edge as that technology becomes available.  Those G5 guys don't let much technology get past 'em.  Good folks too!

Replacable surgical carbon blades with a titanium head.

Ask MLBowhunting about the blood trails and quick kills using surgical carbon blades and Titanium ferrules.   Sure wish the materials and manufacturing hazards would allow the price on those to be within everyone's budget.  Cause I'm really digging those things right now!

They will never sell great as most do not see the advantages of carbon over stainless and the titanium bar is freakishly expensive (I think MLB's brother has destroyed about $1,000 worth of them already)   But we will have some available for next year.  I will be shooting them for sure!

[coachcw]

I just don't sharpen bh, I use one to three for tunning and practice then fresh ones to kill . I figure once it leaves my bow in the woods it's done . I would hate to see a failure due to reuse . but they make good grouse arrows .

[BABackcountryBwhntr]

worksharp makes a awesome field sharpener.... I always have it in my pack... its great for sharpening fixed blades... even has both 3 and 4 blade wrench as well.