Helical fletching

[JJD]

Is there some sort of rule of thumb for helical fletching?
Sort of like a faster twist rate in a barrel stabilizes heavier bullets better and a slower rate for lighter bullets.  Like maybe more helical for heavier arrows an vice versa for lighter?

Most people I have talked to run a right hand helic rather than left, is there a reason for that?

Do Blazer vanes run helical ok?

Jig recommendations?

Yeah, I got more questions than a 4 yr old on a sugar high 

[Redbeard]

Right helical always worked for me.  It helps the broadhead twist tight on impact.  Other than that I never noticed much difference. But thats me.

[stromdiddily]

3 degree helical on my blazers out of the bohning jig look and fly great. Have also done max hunters...

[MR5x5]

Right or left with a drop away rest makes no difference.  Left can tend to loosen tips.  Back in the slow days, a right handed shooter would typically shoot left helical so the arrow would rotate away from the rest on launch.

[JJD]

A Friend loaned me a EZ fletch mini (right) some vanes and some glue.
I re-fletched 5 carbon express maxima, 2 inch blazer vanes.
I had a broken arrow and used it to practice on.  After a couple of try's, I got what I thought was the right amount of glue on each vane.
Prep arrows by getting all the old glue off, Comet and scrub pad with hot water, air dry, then wipe down with a gun cleaning patch & Lacquer thinner and air dry.
I believe maybe the Pine Ridge glue is too old (several years old and previously opened) or I was not using enough.  I lost 2 of 15 vanes but the rest seem to be holding up.
In shooting them with field points, I don't notice much difference in arrow flight or accuracy, will try them with broad heads and compare.

[RadSav]

I have found some difficulty using the EZ fletcher when I got my first one.  Especially when using the Cyanoacrylate glues.  I found my problem was getting the jig too tight.  Once I switched to sliding the ring down just tight enough to hold the fletching to the shaft it got much better.

Also, I keep Comet as far away from my shafts as possible!  The film it leaves behind is dang hard to get off.  I would think trying lacquer thinner afterward should do the trick, but maybe it does not.  No need to use both IMO.

[lamrith]

I did not go thru that much labor when I re-fletched my arrows and they are holding well.  At least 20 shots thru wb  rest and into box target and thru stables with no failures. 

I used potatoe peeler to remove old vanes and scrape smooth as possible.  Aircraft stripper to remove oils and then Cyanoacrylate glue.  Used to much and has nasty looking globs but was 1st try and holding well.

What glues are people using with their ez-minis?  The Cyanoacrylate stuff is not very forgiving

Yeeesh auto correct can be a pain!!

[Katmai Guy]

Have been using an Arizona EZ fletch for about 20 yrs with Flex fletch glue.  Rubbing alcohol both shaft and base of vane, let air dry, fletch, let sit for about 10 min. done.  Haven't had a failure yet.

[JJD]

I have found some difficulty using the EZ fletcher when I got my first one.  Especially when using the Cyanoacrylate glues.  I found my problem was getting the jig too tight.  Once I switched to sliding the ring down just tight enough to hold the fletching to the shaft it got much better.

Also, I keep Comet as far away from my shafts as possible!  The film it leaves behind is dang hard to get off.  I would think trying lacquer thinner afterward should do the trick, but maybe it does not.  No need to use both IMO.

I was kinda under the impression that the Comet was to lightly rough up the surface to give glue something to grab on to, rather than as a cleaner.
If I'm wasting my time with that procedure, I will no longer do it.

Katmai,
From gunsmithing work, I know that rubbing alcohol is not pure and leaves a residue behind, I'll stick with the thinner.
As the old adage goes, If it works for you, don't mess with it.

Thanks for the advice guys, appreciate it

[RadSav]

Depends on which rubbing alcohol you are using.  If you can get better than 97% it is usually ok.  We use 98 or 99% to clean microscope lenses and mirrors.  Those have to be 100% film free to work properly.

If you want to rough up a surface use a fresh Scotch Brite pad.  Way more abrasive than Comet without the bad stuff.

I still prefer a quality lacquer thinner from an automotive paint store.  Beware of cheap thinners from Home Depot.  They will often leave a film too! 

If using cyanoacrylate glues you can also use 1 parts Simple Green with 3 parts water.  Not sure what the dilution rate is with Simple Green concentrate.

Also be careful with how your wiping towel is cleaned and dried.  Fabric softeners and Bounty sheets will ruin a good cleaning.  I use the blue disposable shop towels.

[JJD]

For sure on the thinner, ya gotta get the stuff thst is used to thin quality paint, not the Walmart stuff that is used to clean paint brushs. 
Most of the "rubbing" alcohol at variety stores barely breaks 80%.  I ya hunt down the good stuff, Denatured 90% or better, it's clean.

Again, this is experience with gunsmithing, but should be the same.

Never heard of using Simple Green, interesting.

Thanks for your input.

[lamrith]

I already had some handy, not sure $ wise it makes sens for people to go buy it, but I am using DX330 Wax and grease remover. 
Is it a product by ppg for cleaning surfaces prior to painting and found @ autobody supply stores.  Then a clean disposable towel much like Radsav, so not concerns on detergents or fabric softeners on a rag...

[RadSav]

I already had some handy, not sure $ wise it makes sens for people to go buy it, but I am using DX330 Wax and grease remover. 
Is it a product by ppg for cleaning surfaces prior to painting and found @ autobody supply stores.  Then a clean disposable towel much like Radsav, so not concerns on detergents or fabric softeners on a rag...

I was unfamiliar with the PPG - DX330 so I looked up the chemical makeup.  Rather interesting!  With two different ingredients for breaking down resins and polymers chains on top of the high Naptha content it sure sounds like a good choice when refletching old arrows.  And with 5-10% n-Heptane it should really nock the daylights out of any oil residues!  I might have to try that in the future

Definitely do not want to soak your carbon arrows in the stuff.  That could be a future school yard science test though

[lamrith]

Yeah I had it purely because of a past painting project.  everyone said biggest issue with fletching is oils so I gave it a shot.  Yes I used this on the arrows I refletched.

Time will tell, as I am new to this archery side hobby.  I have a feeling it will be like reloading for firearms, a whole art in itself.

[RadSav]

Never heard of using Simple Green, interesting.

Before Goat Tuff started selling their own cleaner Simple Green was their instructed method of cleaning shafts prior to fletching.  I fletch very little with Cyanoacrylate glue, but when I do I still use the Simple Green process to avoid all the issues with vapors.  Can do everything from cleaning to fletching in the house and never miss a minute of the football game!  Just be sure to dilute well or you will be rinsing a long time!

[Come Get Some]

I use Comet on all of my shafts. Wipe with a clean paper towel. Fletch with Max Bond and AAE Max hunter vanes. NEVER lost one. I use the same method for target. We shot an arrow thru a target in Redding. I reached thru with a leatherman, grabbed the X-10 by the AAE vane with the pliers and pulled. My wife kept shooting the arrow. No damage to the vane or arrow.
 I run a Qtip down the sides of my vanes after fletching. I do a dozen arrows in 20 minutes. You can shoot them immediately and pull the arrows by the vanes. They DO NOT COME OFF ever..Just saying

[JJD]

How far do you delute the Simple Green?

[RadSav]

How far do you delute the Simple Green?

I was told with the spray to dilute it 1:3 though I have used it straight with no problems.  Just really conscious to rinse extremely well.  I found an old note from Goat Tuff that said 1 ounce to two cups of water with the concentrate.

[JJD]

thanks again RadSav