The little things

[Vo2max]

Thanks again and I just put in my order for the Rampage 250's along with the canes and inserts. Again, much appreciated.

Erik

[RadSav]

Lower Your Anchor –

Far too often I see shooters of short bows raising their anchor point up to the corner of their mouth so they can reach their nose to the string.  While this idea may seem good in achieving a secondary reference point it often causes many more issues than the one problem it solves. 

Many of these shooters have made the change from a longer axle-to-axle bow to one much shorter.  They focus so much on the secondary point of reference that their anchor point is floating at a set distance.  Then in a fit of madness they exclaim that their new bow just doesn’t shoot as well as the old one.  But it is rarely the bow at fault.  It is usually the primary anchor (or lack thereof) that is to blame.

There is a reason the tip of the nose is considered a “Secondary Reference” and not the “Primary Anchor” point.  A secondary reference helps maintain consistency in left/right grouping and the consistency of the head in relation to the bow, but it has no structure to maintain a vertical anchor.  Dropping your anchor to a solid reference on the jaw bone is one of the most advantageous little things you can do for your consistency.  And best of all…this little thing is absolutely free!

There is really no set-in-stone method of where and how to anchor.  As long as it is solid and repeatable is all that really matters.  The jaw bone is easily defined even with gloves or a hand numb from the cold.  My personal preference with an index finger release is to cup the jaw bone in the gap between the thumb and index finger.  With a T-Handle release I prefer to rotate my thumb down and place the gap between the index knuckle and the middle knuckle hard into the jaw bone.  Before going to a D-Loop I shot a Wynn glove type of release that would allow me to shoot with my middle finger.  Trigger travel was horrible with this release, but I was able to use the same rock solid index/middle anchor as I have with my target T-Handle release.  That combination put a lot of dead animals on the wall and still does put all the wife’s animals in the freezer.

One of the fringe benefits of this lower anchor point is that it raises the peep sight.  This in turn raises the sight bracket.  And when that happens you have more room between the pin guard and the arrow.  This does two things: 
#1 - It allows you to have longer sight marks sometimes reaching as much as 120+ yards.  That leads to some exceptionally fun and beneficial practice .
#2 – The increased distance between the sight and the arrow keeps clanging of the arrow to a minimum.  When those excited hands get a little shaky in the presence of a trophy with keen hearing that can be a real benefit!

Once you find that perfect solid anchor then you can worry about second reference points.  You don’t want to lengthen the draw length as it relates to the position of your arm.  However, you can lengthen the draw length by shortening the D-Loop or using a release with a more forward mounted trigger.  On my own short bows I end up doing both by shooting the Carter Quickie release, a D-Loop as short as possible without allowing interference between the arrow nock and the release hook, and I go even further by placing the trigger as deep into the hand as possible while still allowing my finger to be placed behind it during draw.  This will usually give me ¼ to ½” more draw length without effecting my form or adding tension to my shoulders.

There are other forms of secondary reference points as well.  The most popular of which is the use of a kisser button.  Archers have been using kisser buttons for longer than I have been shooting a bow.  They are very effective and most are easy to install.  There are small ones, large ones and even kissers made from a simple short serving of thread with a nock set crimped on.  A person could even use a kisser up the string to contact the nose if they should so desire.  Just be sure to tie them in place very well as they will slip easily if not located over some serving thread or tied into place with some attention to detail.

[steeliedrew]

RadSav,

I've been shooting with the string to the very tip of my nose for almost 4 years now.  I'm going to have to anylize everything again.  haha

For reference, I shoot a 33" axle to axle bow.  Care to enlighten us on what a "short bow" is exactly?

Thanks for the knowledge.

Drew

[RadSav]

RadSav,
For reference, I shoot a 33" axle to axle bow.  Care to enlighten us on what a "short bow" is exactly?

Depends on the height of the shooter!

Myself, I rate anything over 40" as long, anything under 36" to be short and anything under 30" ridiculous.

My wife with her 24.5" draw length rates bows under 30" short and sweet, 36" bows long and clunky and 40" bows ridiculous.

As an engineer I see 40" bows as pretty sweet, 36" bows dang near perfect and anything under 32" a mechanical nightmare!

[D-Rock425]

I like to keep my bows right around the 35 ATA length if I can. 

[whacker1]

Love it, tagging along to see what I can retain and return to retain more.

Thank you

[Band]

As an engineer I see 40" bows as pretty sweet, 36" bows dang near perfect and anything under 32" a mechanical nightmare!

I'll bet I'm not the only one who dropped everything they were doing to go measure their bow.

[RadSav]

I've had two 30" bows in here recently for some custom strings and tuning.  I don't know why I even bother telling friends I will work on these bows.  After a few days of playing with them the same thing happens.  I grab the hair on my head, scream in frustration and yell "I hate these F*&#@ng things!!" 

PSE single cam bows with their asymmetric idler wheel are about the only ones I can tolerate.  My Bear Assault, which I shoot very well (avatar), is 31" and I had to put PSE's idler wheel on it before I could handle the mental anguish. Even building a decent looking string on these short bows is a major challenge.

The wife absolutely loves her Hoyt Kobalt and it's 28" A2A.  And of course she tears up strings faster than I can find the time to make them.  I keep buying her faster bows, lighter bows, longer bows, more expensive bows, prettier bows and all she wants is to shoot her little Kobalt.  String is almost all serving, the bottom cam leans like the Tower of Pisa, timing has to be absolutely dead nuts perfect and yet she shoots the thing Crazy Good...pisa me off but good!  I know her Bear bow shoots just as good, faster, quieter and never goes out of tune.  I know for certain her Hoyt twisted Carbon Pretzel with the horrendous block hubcaps shoots faster, quieter and has dang near zero lower cam lean.  I'm beginning to think, other than the fantastic grip, the only reason she likes the Kobalt is that she knows it drives me nuts. 

I'd like to get her to use a shoot through cable system on that darn bow.  Then I could sleep at night

[JJB11B]

As an engineer I see 40" bows as pretty sweet, 36" bows dang near perfect and anything under 32" a mechanical nightmare!

I'll bet I'm not the only one who dropped everything they were doing to go measure their bow.

What is the Alien X A2A Measurement?

[RadSav]

What is the Alien X A2A Measurement?

I think the X was 31.5 and the XL was 33.25"  Would have to download Martins old catalogs to find out for sure per year of your bow.  But that is the length of the model years I had.  If I recall those were '12 model year.

[JJB11B]

I think I bought mine in 2010

[j_h_nimrod]

This thread was well timed. After a long hiatus I am stepping back into the sport in a small way. Since I last shot everything has changed and I was a bit lost trying to figure it all out. This thread has helped a lot in my understanding and getting my bow properly tuned. Thanks, RadSav.

[JJB11B]

I need arrow recommendations. Since I have been shooting my bow I have been using the green label quickstrike arrows that Steves Archery sells. I shoot a 2010 Rytera Alien X 70# and maxed out on the draw length (bow says 29'' I am 6'4") anywho, I am down to my last 3 arrows and want to get new ones. I think I want to change to something that would be a little more common to find in sporting good stores. The quickstrikes are pretty expensive and honestly hardly anyone carries them.

[RadSav]

If Steve set you up with that bow I doubt it is still set at 29"  -  6' 4" is usually between 30 and 30.5".  Why don't we measure for "True Draw Length" first.  Draw the bow back and have someone mark the shaft at the plunger hole.  Then measure the arrow from the crotch (bottom of the saddle) to the mark.  That will be the bows "True Draw" length.  Take that number and add 1.75" and you have the bows AMO draw length.  From there we can be more qualified and accurate with recommendations.

[scoutdog346]

Radsav where is ur shop?