lets talk excess pressure

[huntandjeep]

Are you re-sizing the new brass?  If you are full-length re-sizing are you turning your die down until the shell plate cam's over on the down stroke?  Basically, are you turning your die down until it just touches the shell plate or until it cams over the shell plate?

I haven't had to load any new brass yet. Using the previous loaded brass ( im loading it for the second time ). I ran the die down till it just touches the shell holder, let off on the ram and turned the die down another 1/4-3/8 turn. When I resize it cams over.

[huntandjeep]

If your getting sub. 1/2 out of your 6.5 but the bolt is a firm close, I'd bump the shoulder a slight Blonde one. And give it a try those are awesome groups and your primers don't look bad

Not sure what your meaning by bump the shoulder? Or how to do it 

[2labs]

Are you re-sizing the new brass?  If you are full-length re-sizing are you turning your die down until the shell plate cam's over on the down stroke?  Basically, are you turning your die down until it just touches the shell plate or until it cams over the shell plate?

I haven't had to load any new brass yet. Using the previous loaded brass ( im loading it for the second time ). I ran the die down till it just touches the shell holder, let off on the ram and turned the die down another 1/4-3/8 turn. When I resize it cams over.
[/quote





By doing this,your taking fire formed brass and sizing it back to Sammi specs.
If your not sharing reloads with buddies and only shooting these out of this gun there is no reason to work your brass that much. A slight shoulder bump and neck size is all that's needed. Get more mileage out of your brass also.
And there's always scotch tape! The red neck case gauge.

[300rum]

Are you using a case gauge on your brass and trimming after re-sizing?

[300rum]

You can't just screw your FL die in and expect your ammo to case gauge without either knowing the specs of you your chamber or using a case gauge. 

You have to know where to set your shoulder of your brass.  Your 7mm, a belted magnum, headspaces off the belt on the brass's first shot and then you need to bump the shoulder back on you next loading.  You will be headspacing off the shoulder from here on out with that brass.  In order to set your shoulder you have to know where to set your die, you probably aren't screwing your die in far enough to set the shoulder back but this isn't a place to be guessing, you need to know your chamber.  Likely it will be somewhere in the .0015 to .005 range.

If you don't set your shoulder you will find over pressure soon (bad, bad).  If you bump your shoulder back too far you will have case head separation (bad, bad).

After you set your shoulder and re-size, you will need to trim to length (or at least measure to see if you need to trim) as you are stretching the neck of the case. 

[300rum]

When you fire a cartridge in your chamber, the cartridge expands to the exact size of your chamber.  When you reload that once-fired cartridge with a full length die you need to "bump" the shoulder of the cartridge back with your die, this allows your cartridge to chamber and headspace correctly in the chamber.  When you bump the shoulder the neck of the cartridge can lengthen so you need to trim to desired length. 

If your getting sub. 1/2 out of your 6.5 but the bolt is a firm close, I'd bump the shoulder a slight Blonde one. And give it a try those are awesome groups and your primers don't look bad

Not sure what your meaning by bump the shoulder? Or how to do it 

[huntandjeep]

Are you using a case gauge on your brass and trimming after re-sizing?

No and no. Guess those are the next 2 items I need to pick up.
Are you talking about a case gauge like the Lyman ez case gauge or something more like a Wilson case gauge or RCBS precision mic ?

[300rum]

https://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25549/catid/3/L_E__Wilson_Case_gages

[300rum]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gage-5-bushing-set-with-comparator?cm_vc=ProductFinding

[huntandjeep]

Ok that's what I thought you were talking about .

[jasnt]

I've never bumped shoulders in any rifle I have.  I Neck size only. Sure it has a slight resistance when closing the bolt but it's not nessasary to do so and it will work your brass more making it hard and needing anealed more often. Been doing it this way for six years now. I've got a batch of 300wm brass with almost 40 reloads with not one split,crack, or head separation.  Jme

[Old Man Now]

You can't just screw your FL die in and expect your ammo to case gauge without either knowing the specs of you your chamber or using a case gauge. 

You have to know where to set your shoulder of your brass.  Your 7mm, a belted magnum, headspaces off the belt on the brass's first shot and then you need to bump the shoulder back on you next loading.  You will be headspacing off the shoulder from here on out with that brass.  In order to set your shoulder you have to know where to set your die, you probably aren't screwing your die in far enough to set the shoulder back but this isn't a place to be guessing, you need to know your chamber.  Likely it will be somewhere in the .0015 to .005 range.

If you don't set your shoulder you will find over pressure soon (bad, bad).  If you bump your shoulder back too far you will have case head separation (bad, bad).

After you set your shoulder and re-size, you will need to trim to length (or at least measure to see if you need to trim) as you are stretching the neck of the case.

Excellent!!
I have loaded for my Rem. 7 mag since 1978 (37 yrs) and can only remember 2 times of ever having problems with it. Sticky bolt can be: high pressure or tight fit on the casing.

But, I would also suggest you invest in a RCBS Case Mic for that cal., it will surely help!. I have a case mic for every cal. that I load for - 7 in total. Once you start using one, you will soon realize that it's a great tool to have. They check the head space.

Also, I use the Redding shell holder's, these come in a set of 5 for different cal.s and also a great asset for reloading, especially if loading for several rifles in the same caliber.

[Bill W]

I've shot "hot loads" out of my 7x57 since around 1987 and after that many years don't feel the need for it.  I'd get bright marks on the back of the case and based on conventional thought that's in the pressure range of 65K.  The difference in trajectory of a hot load vs a regular load is negligible.  And on an animal, dead is dead.  Doesn't matter if it's a hot load or a normal load.

I still have a small batch of hot loads but once they are shot up I intend to return to normal pressure.   

The hot loads were developed using an older Bob Hagel book on "practical ballistics".

Per benchrest shooting I've learned that there are three "nodes" that will show the best accuracy.  A node found with lower velocity, a medium velocity node and one that exhibits pressure signs on the back of the case.

In competition the smallest group wins.  On an animal the x ring is at least 10"x10" and dead is dead.

[mazama]

Having reloaded 40+ yrs ihave found you can do every thing right and still have problems,load a bunch of ammo and some woll not be same,had tight loads on one gun because brass sat without cleaning the case necks stretched and pulled out after resizing. Have found corncob media in chamber made for tight seating.If you shoot loads you will have to push shoulder back,I now use only once fired brass for hunting loads and I cycle every round to make sure there is no problems.

[huntandjeep]

So the 2 case gauges 300rum linked are what I need . Is the Wilson better than the Hornady ? Or will the Hornady do the same job .
Allen