Free: Contests & Raffles.
Lockers come first, IMHO.
Do the slip yoke eliminator on the transfer case. If you don't do this, don't bother lifting it. You'll be miserable and regret it. http://www.extremeterrain.com/wrangler-jeep-slip-yoke-eliminators-explained.html
For what you said you want to use it for, I wouldn't bother with him a lift.Put a locker in the rear and throw some decent 31"s underneath it and you'll go most anywhere you need to go.
Quote from: gasman on April 19, 2017, 07:19:11 PMFor what you said you want to use it for, I wouldn't bother with him a lift.Put a locker in the rear and throw some decent 31"s underneath it and you'll go most anywhere you need to go.that's what I think as well. ARB air lockers, 2 inches, a real bumper and winch.... all you need.
.........So complicated. I do want a lift, I do want 33s. Cabin is 10 minutes from the top of Stevens pass.... Having your diff drag in snow, or bumper push snow.... The goal is 33s, gonna be a snow rig more than anything, lockers would be nice, had a Rubicon for while. Is there a middle of the road setup that will give me the lift without having to redo everything else? Not looking to go to Moab or go wheeling weekly.....
Don't forget to put a drop pitman arm on if raising it 2+ inches along with adding a bracket for your front track bar. You'll need to keep your steering geometry as close to stock as possible. The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other. Slip yoke eliminator kit a must as everyone has said and a Tom Woods drive shaft (great shafts at great price). I wouldn't shim the skid plate/transfer case. Defeats the whole purpose of a lift. You'll also have to add longer sway bar end links.
Quote from: timberghost72 on April 20, 2017, 09:08:21 PMDon't forget to put a drop pitman arm on if raising it 2+ inches along with adding a bracket for your front track bar. You'll need to keep your steering geometry as close to stock as possible. The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other. Slip yoke eliminator kit a must as everyone has said and a Tom Woods drive shaft (great shafts at great price). I wouldn't shim the skid plate/transfer case. Defeats the whole purpose of a lift. You'll also have to add longer sway bar end links.Dropped pitman arm is not necessary ( as long as you don't move the axle side of the track bar ). I'm not using one on mine. You have use a transfer case drop bracket unless you buy adjustable control arms. You want the rear pinion pointed at the rear yoke of the transfer case.
Quote from: huntandjeep on April 21, 2017, 06:18:35 AMQuote from: timberghost72 on April 20, 2017, 09:08:21 PMDon't forget to put a drop pitman arm on if raising it 2+ inches along with adding a bracket for your front track bar. You'll need to keep your steering geometry as close to stock as possible. The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other. Slip yoke eliminator kit a must as everyone has said and a Tom Woods drive shaft (great shafts at great price). I wouldn't shim the skid plate/transfer case. Defeats the whole purpose of a lift. You'll also have to add longer sway bar end links.Dropped pitman arm is not necessary ( as long as you don't move the axle side of the track bar ). I'm not using one on mine. You have use a transfer case drop bracket unless you buy adjustable control arms. You want the rear pinion pointed at the rear yoke of the transfer case.Yes you could get away with doing it this way but as the saying goes, just cuz you can doesn't mean you should. This just introduces more problems down the road. Best to do it right the first time. Lowering the skid plate puts undo stress on the engine mounts and exhaust. Not correcting the steering geometry to where it should be puts alot of un-needed stress with the steeper angle on already weak tie rod ends. Especially when you add larger tires.
and after all of that it might make weird unexpected turns left and right when you're doing 70mph down the freeway. That is about the time the lifted jeeps all go to craigslist to die..
I put a 4" lift on my wrangler. Tried the transfer case spacers and axle wedges in the rear, but had nasty driveline vibration and the yoke was way out of the trans so I went with an SYE.For a SYE Checkout Adams Driveshaft. I went with the Teraflex Extreme short SYE kit. They have it with the SYE AND a driveshaft as a package. You install the new tailshaft with SYE, send them a measurement once installed, and they make a custom DS for you. They made mine in 2 days and shipped it out. Installing it this weekend. Then they will follow up with you and advise if you need more angle to your rear axle or not. Shims are extra, not included in the SYE kit, but they help advise for proper final setup.
