Author Topic: AR-15 223 Reloading (Read 17267 times)

CoryTDF · « **on:** March 03, 2009, 08:46:58 PM »

Hello all,

I have a question about reloading 223 ammo. I have a Remington R-15 VTR and i'm having trouble with my reloads. I shot 20 rounds today and had 7 misfires. I'm having trouble with the bolt going all the way forward. It will fire a few rounds and then i'll pull the trigger and all i hear is "click". If I ram the forward assist i can get some of the rounds to fire, but i shouldn't even have to mess with that.

I am using rcbs standard 223 dies, Hornady brass, Nosler 55grain ballistic tip boat tail bullets, and 24 grains of Hodgden benchmark powder. I have no complaints about the load it has produced close to half inch groups "when they fire!"

Has anybody had a similar problem? How did you fix it? If anybody has any advice for me that would be great.

Thanks,

Gutpile · « **Reply #1 on:** March 03, 2009, 09:10:19 PM »

Check over at predatormasters.com there's a thousand threads about AR's and reloading. There have been a few threads about this same problem on the R-15 I don't recall the solutions though.

Good luck.

Ray · « **Reply #2 on:** March 03, 2009, 09:16:06 PM »

Make sure it is lubed a little.

Cannot commment on that particular load. Just a thought.

jmkuhlman · « **Reply #3 on:** March 03, 2009, 09:47:29 PM »

Well there could be a few issues. I just read that a batch of R-15 firing pins are short and out of spec.

However, your bolt is not going home and that would lead me to believe it is a lube problem or a case issue. Did you set you resizing die all the way down? When I first starting reloading, I didn't seat it all the way down and some my 7MM loads would not allow me to lock down the bolt. I had to force some and this was an issue. You could also be exceeding the case length. Are you within spec on case length and max length?

littlebuf · « **Reply #4 on:** March 03, 2009, 09:55:25 PM »

it would be hard to go over on max length since the round wouldnt fit in the magazine. i have the r-15 my reloads just barely fit in the mag and i dont full length size just neck size. i would make sure you have a good lube. i use tetra gun oil and rem oil, no problems

Ray · « **Reply #5 on:** March 03, 2009, 10:00:32 PM »

I think he was talking about case length as opposed to OAL. Although I have never experienced a problem with long case length in regards to misfires and difficulty in getting the round into the chamber before. Not saying I know anything special. Just saying they are not the same.

CoryTDF · « **Reply #6 on:** March 03, 2009, 10:14:09 PM »

Thanks for the suggestions guys!

Yeah i have lubed the gun thoroughly. I have a lot of experience with the weapons system from my time in the military, but not much experience with reloading. My case length and overall length is within spec. according to the Speer manual that i have been using. jmkuhlman I'll try to adjust my dies and see what that does. anybody know anything about having to use smaller dies. I don't know anything about it but i heard that i might have to get a different set of dies. I'm going to check out predatormasters.com

Thanks guys,

If you have anymore ideas feel free to send them my way I'm all ears.

Ray · « **Reply #7 on:** March 03, 2009, 10:17:41 PM »

Are there any markings on the rounds or brass which might indicate something is wrong with them in a certain spot?

Have you measured the problematic ammo and also the good ammo to look for any differences? Length,width anything...

Is the powder and load someone else's with the same rifle setup or is it something you picked out of a book on recommendation?

Is the load light in powder?

Have you tried a different powder with the same results?

How does it do with factory ammo nosler 55bt?

Ray · « **Reply #8 on:** March 03, 2009, 10:24:46 PM »

One more thing. Not necessarily an AR-15 thing...

One time I loaded up some ammo and it was having an issue with chambering. I later noticed that it was because somehow during the reloading process I had accidentally and slightly malformed the brass. It was not obvious at first until I took that ammo home and noticed it after looking closely.

shoot-em-dead · « **Reply #9 on:** March 03, 2009, 10:28:29 PM »

I'm very,very new to reloading but my Speer book says that the most common reason for misfires is the "high primer";the re loader fails to fully seat the primer in the case. When a primer is not fully seated, some of the force of the firing pin drives the primer deeper into the pocket and an additional 50% of energy may be required to activate the primer. This may explain the misfire but the action problem sounds like it needs to be lubed. I always try to keep some in my truck just for my 10-22. I have lubed it twice in the same day if I do a lot of shooting.

I just saw you posted you have a Speer book. If it is manual #14, the info is on page 35

dontgetcrabs · « **Reply #10 on:** March 03, 2009, 10:41:13 PM »

Sounds like you might need to up the powder level a bit. If you do not have enough pressure to cycle the action fully the bolt will not have enough inertia to close completely?

CoryTDF · « **Reply #11 on:** March 03, 2009, 11:00:33 PM »

Ok,
i went back over everything that went wrong. I was having trouble in about 4 of the 7 misfires with the round not seating all the way when i first released the bolt. I hit the bolt release and let it slam forward. and the bolt did not seat. The other 3 misfires happened while firing my five shot groups. On all seven of the misfires the rifle went "click" and the when i checked the primers they were clean not even a cambering mark.The gun is lubed and i have fired about 100-120 rounds of factory Hornady V-Max 55 gr. with no problems. I am still trying to fish for information on predatormasters.com but it is a lot of info and I'm not finding anybody with my specific problem. If anybody knows a link that could help me out i am willing to take a look. Thanks keep it coming! I really want to reload so this is very frustrating1

jmkuhlman · « **Reply #12 on:** March 03, 2009, 11:16:30 PM »

Just checked out your load at 24 grains of Benchmark and you are fine in this aspect. I'm checking around some other sites still.

jmkuhlman · « **Reply #13 on:** March 03, 2009, 11:25:14 PM »

Here is a helpful link, it appears to be a low charge or required case trimming. What is your case length? the charge should be good, but there are some steps you can take to insure this.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?s=af9a1abdebad0554f6f0c9572ea90f15&showtopic=80294&pid=931481&st=0&#entry931481

Ray · « **Reply #14 on:** March 04, 2009, 04:57:51 AM »

I would look at powder charge and brass. You never specified the load details which I was getting at above. What is the min and max recommended powder charge for this load? You also did not say you measured and closely inspected the two different sets of brass looking for differences. It would not hurt to look at the primers too. Don't just gloss over the fine details because you might miss the problem.

luvtohnt · « **Reply #15 on:** March 04, 2009, 06:30:35 AM »

Quote

had the same problem. 11 of 20 federal xm193 failed to fire in my Remington R15. I put in a $1.50 dpms hammer spring, and it goes bang every time.
It does have a noticeably heavier trigger pull with the heavier hammer spring, but I can deal with the compromise.

Found this on another site, there were 4 different people with the same problem as you and this seemed to be a solution.

Brandon

Gutpile · « **Reply #16 on:** March 04, 2009, 06:41:14 AM »

I think I know what your doing. I think you may have the seater die set to low which is crushing the case partially when seating the bullets. On the ones that have not chambered run your fingers up and over the shoulder, if you feel a small swell at the shoulder thats what your doing. Sometimes you can see the swell. Anyways if your having probs with rounds not chambering that'd be my guess. It doesn't take much for the case to be malformed enough not to chamber. Just back off the seating die a little bit. Start measuring you brass and trimming. AR's stretch brass pretty good.

The thing that stumps me is that I thought AR's would not fire if out of battery???

Big10gauge · « **Reply #17 on:** March 04, 2009, 07:57:35 AM »

My 223 ar's just will not shoot Black Hills VG's due to lack of gas pressure

Probably either gas or case issue unless you have changed your buffer spring? If you are short stroking you can buy another spring and try cutting it down until the bolt cycles correctly for your reloads.

Shoot one bullet from a known working magazine, if the bolt goes back into a locked position you should have enough gas to operate the bolt correctly if not then it's probably a case resizing issue

Check for markings on your spent cases

Clean your gastube and block

Clean your chamber with a chamber brush, also your clean/check bolt lugs

Clean your feed ramp

Make sure you are full length sizing the brass

CLP the hell out of it

Other link
http://www.predatormastersforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=53050422&an=0&page=0#53050422

demontang · « **Reply #18 on:** March 04, 2009, 08:27:21 AM »

If your not using a full lenght sizing die it might be some thing to look at. They are some small base dies that you should use for semi auto .223's and you shouldnt just neck size for a semi auto. I have shot a few hundered reloads though my Oly and have no problems but my Dad's colt wont feed the light loads but I dont think that its a light loaded causing the problem. If you where closer I would be glad to come help but thats a long way to drive.

FALFire · « **Reply #19 on:** March 04, 2009, 08:35:55 AM »

Reloading for the AR can be a real experience and in many cases, not a good one.
Follow these procedures and you should be fine.

Without any case in the press, raise the ram all the way until it stops. Screw in the sizer die until it stops against the shell holder. Slightly lower the ram and give the sizer die 1/4 - 1/2 more turns. You should feel the ram "cam over" at full draw on the handle. What this is going to do, is it is set back the shoulder of the case just enough to allow the loaded round to fit into the chamber completely.

Now, lube up about ten cases and begin resizing paying special attention to the "cam over" feel of the ram on each case. Look at the shoulder of the resized case and compare that to a fired but non-resized case. You are looking at the shoulder to compare the setback of the adjusted sizer die. Once you see it, you will be able to quickly identify it.

Now for the bullet seating step. Without dumping powder or seating a primer we are going to adjust the bullet seating die. Remove the bullet seating adjuster stem from the die body. Place one of the resized cases into the shell holder and fully raise the ram into place, screw the die body down into the press until it very slightly touches the case mouth.

Now, BACK IT OFF about two full turns. Here is why... you do not want the case mouth to be touched by the die body. What happens is, the die body will actually push the shoulder back at the case body and create a bulge that will cause the case to not fully seat into the chamber of the rifle. If you carefully trim all of your cases then this step may not be neccessary but AR's can be very finicky so I would still back it off two full turns.

Now Screw in the bullet adjuster stem and seat your bullet to your desired OAL and test the dummy round in your mag and check for fit and operaton in your AR. You should be able to cycle all the dummy rounds thru your AR by hand without problems. Once you can easily cycle the dummy rounds begin loading live ammo and take it out for a test. Only load up a few rounds so you will not need to pull the bullets from a bunch of reloaded ammo during your testing.

Hopefully this will help in your reloading enjoyment.

Have fun,

Gary

thinkingman · « **Reply #20 on:** March 04, 2009, 08:49:27 AM »

WOW...this thread is packed with useful info.
Good job, guys.

Ray · « **Reply #21 on:** March 04, 2009, 01:26:51 PM »

I am with Gutpile. I have a suspicion it is malformed brass. It is not always easy to detect. It's also hard to diagnose from a computer screen far away.

littlebuf · « **Reply #22 on:** March 04, 2009, 05:56:23 PM »

Quote from: demontang on March 04, 2009, 08:27:21 AM

If your not using a full lenght sizing die it might be some thing to look at. They are some small base dies that you should use for semi auto .223's and you shouldnt just neck size for a semi auto. I have shot a few hundered reloads though my Oly and have no problems but my Dad's colt wont feed the light loads but I dont think that its a light loaded causing the problem. If you where closer I would be glad to come help but thats a long way to drive.

why shouldn't you just neck size for semi auto's ? i only neck size for my R-15 with no problems and great accuracy. i do trim every case as im loading hunting rounds and not just blasting ammo. for blasting i buy factory

Gutpile · « **Reply #23 on:** March 04, 2009, 06:27:13 PM »

Quote

why shouldn't you just neck size for semi auto's ? i only neck size for my R-15 with no problems and great accuracy. i do trim every case as im loading hunting rounds and not just blasting ammo. for blasting i buy factory

Your doing a no-no, be carefull. This is from the RCBS site;

Quote

Q. I see a Small Base Die Set listed for my caliber. Do I need these or should I buy a Full Length Die Set or Neck Die Set? How does each set differ?

A. The Small Base Die set is intended for use for ammunition to be used in auto, semi-auto, and lever action rifles so that the loaded round chambers and extracts easily. The Small Base Sizer Die sizes the case from the shoulder to the head of the case a couple of thousandths smaller than a Full Length Sizer Die. In certain calibers it also sets the shoulder of the case back a thousandth or two more than the Full Length Sizer Die. The Full Length Die Set or Neck Die Set is not normally recommended for ammo to be used in auto, semi-auto, or lever action rifles. The Full Length Die set is recommended for ammunition used in bolt action rifles, particularly for ammunition to be used for hunting. The Neck Die Set can also be used to produce ammunition for use in bolt action rifles. The Neck Sizer Die sizes only the neck of the case so it will hold the bullet firmly. It does not size the body of the case nor does it set the shoulder back. Neck sized cases will usually chamber for three or more firings, depending on the powder charge and chamber dimensions. However, over a period of time, a slight drag will be noticed when the bolt is locked. At this point, cases will need to be full length sized and the shoulder set back so they will chamber and extract easily.

Ray · « **Reply #24 on:** March 04, 2009, 06:30:22 PM »

Please specify what was wrong with my information? I believe you have quoted the wrong person or something. Your response doesn't even speak to what I was discussing at all.

Gutpile · « **Reply #25 on:** March 04, 2009, 07:05:15 PM »

Not you. Sorry. I meant to quote littlebuff. Fixed it.

demontang · « **Reply #26 on:** March 05, 2009, 08:19:42 AM »

Just neck sizing can cause feeding problems in semi autos, which is the problem here so I would try a set of small base dies to narrow down the problem.

CoryTDF · « **Reply #27 on:** March 05, 2009, 05:57:46 PM »

Okay,

Sorry it's been a bit since could get on and there is a lot of information here. Let me see if i can clear up a few things.

1)My case length is 1.74
2) overall length is 2.210
3)Powder is Hodgen 335 and Hodgen benchmark
4) the min and max load for these to the best of my resources and knowledge are 23-25 grains for both powders.
5) I am having great luck accuracy wise with the 24 grain load.
6)I am full length sizing them with a full length RCBS die set.
7) i have noticed some scratches on the side of the casing and the bullets if i eject them after chambered.
8)THE GUN IS CLEAN

I want to make sure that i am explaining this problem correctly.If my bolt is lock to the rear
and i insert a mag. then release the bolt. I may or may not have trouble with the round fully seating. It doesn't happen every time but enough to tell me something is wrong. It may even fire a few rounds and then misfire. At a quick glance the bolt appears to be closed, however, when the trigger is pulled it will click. When i eject the round the primer is clean not a mark on it. If i then reload the round and slam the bolt forward it might chamber. It is not a problem i can produce with every round. Like i said i do know that it happens enough for me to know that something is not right.

I had a friend recommend small base dies. Has anybody used them? Do they cut down your brass length?
The weather has been crap the past few days so i have not been able to go shooting. I still have 20 of the original rounds that i loaded i'm going go shoot them and take the micrometer and a note pad and get VERY specific details about the rounds that give me trouble.

Keep it coming you guys are great!

Ray · « **Reply #28 on:** March 05, 2009, 06:01:28 PM »

take a look at gutpile's post. Make sure you are not accidentally malforming some of the brass when you place the bullet in with the press. It would be easy to miss but he gave some tips and some areas to pay attention to.

Gutpile · « **Reply #29 on:** March 05, 2009, 06:25:33 PM »

Quote

Now for the bullet seating step. Without dumping powder or seating a primer we are going to adjust the bullet seating die. Remove the bullet seating adjuster stem from the die body. Place one of the resized cases into the shell holder and fully raise the ram into place, screw the die body down into the press until it very slightly touches the case mouth.

Now, BACK IT OFF about two full turns. Here is why... you do not want the case mouth to be touched by the die body. What happens is, the die body will actually push the shoulder back at the case body and create a bulge that will cause the case to not fully seat into the chamber of the rifle. If you carefully trim all of your cases then this step may not be neccessary but AR's can be very finicky so I would still back it off two full turns.

Now Screw in the bullet adjuster stem and seat your bullet to your desired OAL and test the dummy round in your mag and check for fit and operaton in your AR. You should be able to cycle all the dummy rounds thru your AR by hand without problems. Once you can easily cycle the dummy rounds begin loading live ammo and take it out for a test. Only load up a few rounds so you will not need to pull the bullets from a bunch of reloaded ammo during your testing.

Falfire had a better explanation than I. Basically if you don't back off the die you will be crimping the case. This will slightly crush the cases that are just a tiny bit long. I stress tiny. The shoulder then bulges and the shell wont chamber. You can sometimes see the bulge and you can normally feel it. I'd almost bet thats whats happening. "Been there done that."

Do you have any of the cartridges that wont chamber. Take a look at them and see if you can see the bulge.

CoryTDF · « **Reply #30 on:** March 05, 2009, 06:39:57 PM »

Gutpile,

Yes i did manage to find one of the rounds that would not fire. I'm glad you said something i forgot to mention this before. there was one round in particular that most defiantly was malformed it had a noticeable bulge on the shoulder. This round was for sure crushed. I did a once over of the brass that i fired that day and i cant see any problems with any of the other casings. It may bee that they are so slightly bulged that i will need to use the micrometer to tell i will give that a try. Thanks for the advise. i'll keep you updated.

sorry just wanted to use that!

Gutpile · « **Reply #31 on:** March 05, 2009, 06:45:06 PM »

Thats the problem then. Just back off the die and screw the center pin down till you get back to the proper depth. Any that were slightly bulged that did end up firing would be "blown" back out from the pressure and the bulge would be gone. They'd take the exact shape of the chamber. I had a feeling thats what the problem was. When I first started reloading I did the same thing. I was stumped.

CoryTDF · « **Reply #32 on:** March 05, 2009, 08:58:52 PM »

If the weather permits it i'm going to go out tomorrow and try to load some new stuff and shoot it. I'll keep you informed.

MasterMisser · « **Reply #33 on:** March 06, 2009, 11:31:21 AM »

warning!!! This is not going to be the readers digest version!!!
OK Cory so like we talked about the last few days. there are a lot of possibilities! but the reason why this is happening is because all the different brands of brass are different in thickness. you bought factory loaded ammo and saved your once fired brass. which is what most of us do. the problem lies in the resizing! when a factory loaded case is fired it expands. when cases are different thickness it means some cases are going to expand more easily than others. when you reload different brands of cases you run a risk of the overall dimensions of the cases being different in size before the resizing stage. so now you need to re size the cases. it is very dangerous resizing a case that actually pushes the neck down into the shoulder of the case. this will cause an increase in pressure and could very easily damage your gun! there are factory specs for a reason!!! i have read everyones post threw this thread and i do not recommend neck sizing! the case's overall diameter is not changed when you neck size a case. which means it will have difficulty in cambering once reloaded. the reason your able to get some of the cases to fire and some not is due to the fact that the cases overall diameter are different in size which is not allowing the bolt to fully lock in place. your powder charges are fine. it has nothing to do with those or the bullet. your gun being a semi auto is having a problem with fully cambering the reloaded round. not due to the neck size, or the powder or even the primer not being fully set into the primer pocket! its the simple fact that the bolt is not fully locking! if the bolt doesn't fully lock the firing pin will not strike the primer. (hence the click). as you and i have discused several nights on the phone now... you need short base dies!!! short base dies are going to re size the case just under factory spec. this will allow the reloaded round to fully chamber and the bolt to lock allowing for the firing pin to make contact with the primer. some of the posts in this thread can be very dangerous and should NOT be tried.

MasterMisser · « **Reply #34 on:** March 06, 2009, 11:44:09 AM »

on another note... it might have something to do with malformed brass but the only reason why i think differently is due to the fact that most of your rounds are firing. you only had 7 not fire. and if the shoulder of the brass was actually being pushed back into the case causing a bulge then all the rounds would have this problem not just some. remember that dies and presses are designed to give the user consistent loads. if you set the die to low, as being suggested don't you think this issue would of taken place with all your reloads... not just 7???. i see where gutpile is coming from but i do not believe that this is the case due to the inconsistent factors associated with your loads. just my two cents. but hey what do i know

Gutpile · « **Reply #35 on:** March 06, 2009, 01:32:47 PM »

Quote

then all the rounds would have this problem not just some.

Not really. Not all brass stretches the same after firing. Some will be just a smidge longer than others, especially if it been fired more than other brass. Some barely stretches at all. So if the seating die is backed off say 1/4 turn then it'll only try to crimp some of the shells. When I had the problem only a few did it and I just made sure to measure every case after sizing and trimmed what brass needed it. Problem solved.

That said, I can't say FOR SURE thats whats going on here but I have a strong suspicon it is.

Don't mix brass. Trim it religiously, back off the dies. You'll be good to go.

Don't back off the sizing die. Thats not at all what I mean. Back off the seating die, and screw the pin down so you still get the proper overall length.

Quote

MasterMisser

I love that name!!

Should be my name.

MasterMisser · « **Reply #36 on:** March 06, 2009, 01:59:23 PM »

Quote
MasterMisser

I love that name!! Should be my name.

thanks... it was corys idea. and i agree with you on the fact that cases stretch differently but i think that with these cases sense they have only been fired the one time im not compleatly sold on the fact that they stretched that much. but only time will tell. and many many loads

CoryTDF · « **Reply #37 on:** March 07, 2009, 08:43:27 PM »

Alrighty then,

I just went out and bought the small base dies. I followed the instructions to the letter. I made up 20 rounds and plan to shoot them tomorrow. Overall i feel like the rounds look the same as the others but we shall see. Everything is to spec and i guess now all i can do is go shoot. Just keeping ya'll updated I'll be back with the results tomorrow as long as the wind isn't howling like today.

FALFire · « **Reply #38 on:** March 08, 2009, 09:17:43 AM »

You don't need small base dies, I've been reloading for 35 years and currently load for about a dozen AR's in various calibers, I have never needed small base dies in any one of them and that includes the lever action and pump acton rifles.

You cannot use neck sizing dies on any AR period. You will eventually end up with problems.

The problem you are having sounds exactly like what Gutpile is trying to describe to you. During your bullet seating step, you are pushing the shoulder back very slightly creating a bulge where the case shoulder and the case body meets and that is what is causing the problem. This is solved by simply backing the SEATING DIE off, try two full turns from what the factory instructions tell you.

If the bolt on an AR does not go fully into battery and lock up, you will end up with a KABOOM, where the round actually fires but there is nothing to contain the round in the chamber and you will literally blow the gun apart. It happens quite frequently to new reloaders that don't fully inderstand the process and problems associated with the AR platform.

As stated in these posts, you must back off the bullet seating die so that the crimping portion of the die body does not touch the case neck. If you want to crimp the neck simply use a Lee Factory Neck Crimping Die.

If you did not follow the instructions I gave you about adjusting your SIZING DIE, then you will also be creating the same syptoms as the crushed shoulder. You MUST push the shoulder back very slightly during the RESIZING STEP to allow the case to fully seat into the chamber.

Go back and very carefully follow my previous instructions and you should find that you are not getting one of the dies adjusted properly.

Remember, during the resizing step, you need to feel the CAM OVER of the press handle as the case is fully inserted into the die, that is what is pushing the shoulder back very slightly. You must back off the bullet seating die two turns after you touch the case mouth with the bullet seating die body to prevent the case mouth from being crimped during your bullet seating step. Then simply turn in the bullet seating stem until you have reached the desired OAL.

Your powder charge and bullet selection is not the problem.

One thing MasterMisser did not mention is case spring back. Once you resize a case, the brass does not come fully back into it's original shape, regardless of the dies you use. You always get case spring back and how much will depend on case thickness and the work hardness of the brass. If the brass gets too hard you need to anneal the brass to relax it so it forms easier. Usually I just toss the old brass as it has, in the past, been cheaper to buy new. There is lots of info available on the internet on how to anneal brass properly and it is very easy to do.

If you do not completely understand this procedure please ask for additional help. It's much cheaper than blowing up the gun and injuring yourself or others.

CoryTDF · « **Reply #39 on:** March 08, 2009, 07:34:35 PM »

FALFire,

I tried adjusting my dies the way you told me and the first round into my gun got stuck. I have run my hands over my brass more times than i can count. I can't feel and deformations. I have measured the brass with a micrometer and it is all within spec. So i decided that because the short base dies are only $29 i will try them and load up some rounds. I did this mostly because the Speer manual that i have specifically mentions that i might need them for a semi-auto. MasterMissers recommendations seem valid enough and when i went back to my manual and found the same information i figured that it was worth a shot. I loaded twenty rounds today and went out and shot them. They preformed well, in fact, they shot as well as my factory Hornady ammunition. I don't know who is right here it may be both of you. However, for me and my gun short base dies seem to be the ticket. I have both sets of dies and alot of time so i will keep playing with the standard dies and see if i can get your method to work. I have come to the concussion that this is far more complicated than i originaly estimated. Lucky for me i enjoy it and look forward to leaning as much as i can. Either way i have found a round that works and i am happy. thanks for you help.

FALFire · « **Reply #40 on:** March 08, 2009, 07:57:20 PM »

Cory, I for one, certainly hope you get this problem figured out because the seriousness of a non-lockup round going off is enough to make anyone give up reloading. I will have to admit, trying to diagnose a problem on the internet is problematic to say the least, however, there have been multiple inquiries regarding this exact same issue and many times over it has come down to improper reloading techniques. Now, it is certainly possible you also have an out of spec sizer die, that would, in itself, cause you the same grief.

The small base dies should fix the problem but as many other reloaders, new and old, have found, in most cases the standard die set works just fine. It sounds as though you have a fix for the problem.

Enjoy.

ICEMAN · « **Reply #41 on:** March 08, 2009, 08:08:09 PM »

I have yet to reload for my .223, but I have been tooling up and getting components. All info provided here is valuable most importantly the warnings. Reloading is always an item to take seriously and exercise maximum caution. Thanks to all.

FALFire · « **Reply #42 on:** March 08, 2009, 08:44:47 PM »

Quote from: ICEMAN on March 08, 2009, 08:08:09 PM

I have yet to reload for my .223, but I have been tooling up and getting components. All info provided here is valuable most importantly the warnings. Reloading is always an item to take seriously and exercise maximum caution. Thanks to all.

You are so correct, and don't hesitate to ask questions. Safety is first, groups come from consistant loading good groups come from good safe consistant loading. It's imperative that you follow the basic rules of reloading for each caliber and each new gun you are reloading for.

MasterMisser · « **Reply #43 on:** March 09, 2009, 02:32:39 PM »

well I'm glad to see everyone is enjoying this thread. there is alot people take forgranted in the reloading process and falfire is right when it comes to consistant accurate reloads. i hope my recommendations were helpful and I'm glad to see them work for you Cory.

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