Free: Contests & Raffles.
I did wanna ask you guys a question though.I trim every time. Keeping the case necks the same length means equal bearing surface holding the bullet in each case-thus it helps minimize inconsistency .with everybody that talks about neck tension.It really doesn't matter though.?I don't crimp unless semi-auto rifle.
Quote from: hunter399 on July 21, 2018, 05:12:08 PMI did wanna ask you guys a question though.I trim every time. Keeping the case necks the same length means equal bearing surface holding the bullet in each case-thus it helps minimize inconsistency .with everybody that talks about neck tension.It really doesn't matter though.?I don't crimp unless semi-auto rifle.I anneal, trim, fullsize, run a mandrel through necks, dip in Imperial dry necklube, sort bullets and seat to .001 and concentricity < .001. With that done ES will still vary between 4 and 40 depending on powder and seating depth. I suspect at the perfect powder/depth I may be able to shortcut all the other prep.
Quote from: Magnum_Willys on July 21, 2018, 06:07:33 PMQuote from: hunter399 on July 21, 2018, 05:12:08 PMI did wanna ask you guys a question though.I trim every time. Keeping the case necks the same length means equal bearing surface holding the bullet in each case-thus it helps minimize inconsistency .with everybody that talks about neck tension.It really doesn't matter though.?I don't crimp unless semi-auto rifle.I anneal, trim, fullsize, run a mandrel through necks, dip in Imperial dry necklube, sort bullets and seat to .001 and concentricity < .001. With that done ES will still vary between 4 and 40 depending on powder and seating depth. I suspect at the perfect powder/depth I may be able to shortcut all the other prep. Question for you magnu m Willy why do you trim your brass , just wondering some are telling me it's not necessary.
Quote from: hunter399 on July 21, 2018, 06:35:28 PMQuote from: Magnum_Willys on July 21, 2018, 06:07:33 PMQuote from: hunter399 on July 21, 2018, 05:12:08 PMI did wanna ask you guys a question though.I trim every time. Keeping the case necks the same length means equal bearing surface holding the bullet in each case-thus it helps minimize inconsistency .with everybody that talks about neck tension.It really doesn't matter though.?I don't crimp unless semi-auto rifle.I anneal, trim, fullsize, run a mandrel through necks, dip in Imperial dry necklube, sort bullets and seat to .001 and concentricity < .001. With that done ES will still vary between 4 and 40 depending on powder and seating depth. I suspect at the perfect powder/depth I may be able to shortcut all the other prep. Question for you magnu m Willy why do you trim your brass , just wondering some are telling me it's not necessary.It depends alot on how well your resizing die matches your chamber. If you have a smaller die it shrinks the brass and it has to go somewhere which is out the neck. On mine my neck grows .010 each time which is putting it at max specs. If I bought a gauge and measured my neck clearance maybe I could go a bit longer. Plus I'm pushing the brass hard so its expanding a lot. Your cartridge has a min and max specification for length. I trim to min each time for consistency. If I neck size I don't need to as it only grows .001 each time. With the perfect fullsize die it might not grow much. I had a custom die made off my brass by whidden but it still grows .010 with just a .002 or .003 shoulder setback.If your brass is less than max length you don't need to trim unless anal for consistency like many handloaders are.
Your cartridge has a min and max specification for length. I trim to min each time for consistency. If I neck size I don't need to as it only grows .001 each time. With the perfect fullsize die it might not grow much. I had a custom die made off my brass by whidden but it still grows .010 with just a .002 or .003 shoulder setback.