Tuning

[WoolSocks]

Wondering if I’ve hit the limits of how well my bow can be tuned. I’m shooting a Bear Arena 34. Have gone through several rounds of improvements.

1. Broadheads were hitting 8 inches left at 40 yards. Tried paper tuning myself (we have a press at the bow range, so was just putting twists in), but couldn’t get much improvement.

2. Was time for a new string anyway so I took it to Nock Point for a new string and tune up. Got better accuracy, but still throwing 8 inches left.

3. Took it back to nock point. They found a very slight lean in the cam and fixed that, tuned it up again. Now it’s still throwing broadheads to the left, but less so (3-4 inches at 40 yards)

Perhaps this is as good as it gets? I’m getting a bit tired of messing with it. At this point I can shoot good groups with mechanicals (6 arrows in 2inch groups  at 40 yards, or 3 inch groups at 60). COC Broadheads move about an inch left per 10 yards, and get somewhat less accurate groups. Kind of starting to think mechanicals are my solution here.

Other info
28.5 draw length
440grain arrow. Getting about 75lbs of KE.
3-fletch Easton bloodline arrows. 11 percent FOC.
I do spin test my arrows
Drop-away rest.

Thanks for any opinions!

[Longfield1]

Knock tuning or move the right just a smidge to have a happy medium. 4" at 40 yards is not acceptable in my book.
What kind of fletching style and degree.
If you shoot a bareshaft through paper at 6 feet what kind of tear are you getting.

[hughjorgan]

Have you not tried moving your rest in small increments to get your field points and Broadheads to come together?

Have you ever shot a bare shaft out of your setup?

[Stein]

Move your rest, you should be able to get them to hit same point pretty easily.  It only takes a very small adjustment and I would probably mark your rest before you start and then again when you are done.

[WoolSocks]

Move your rest, you should be able to get them to hit same point pretty easily.  It only takes a very small adjustment and I would probably mark your rest before you start and then again when you are done.

Will moving the rest get the broadheads to group with field points, or just move both groups to the right? They did paper tune it at the bow shop.

[hughjorgan]

Move your rest, you should be able to get them to hit same point pretty easily.  It only takes a very small adjustment and I would probably mark your rest before you start and then again when you are done.

Will moving the rest get the broadheads to group with field points, or just move both groups to the right? They did paper tune it at the bow shop.

Forget about the paper tune. You need to Broadhead tune, that means moving your rest. If your broad heads are hitting left of center make very small adjustments to the right if there hitting right move the rest left. Your BH should eventually group with your field point.

[MR5x5]

Move your rest, you should be able to get them to hit same point pretty easily.  It only takes a very small adjustment and I would probably mark your rest before you start and then again when you are done.

Will moving the rest get the broadheads to group with field points, or just move both groups to the right? They did paper tune it at the bow shop.

Forget about the paper tune. You need to Broadhead tune, that means moving your rest. If your broad heads are hitting left of center make very small adjustments to the right if there hitting right move the rest left. Your BH should eventually group with your field point.

This!   

[Sakko300wsm]

Move your rest, you should be able to get them to hit same point pretty easily.  It only takes a very small adjustment and I would probably mark your rest before you start and then again when you are done.

Will moving the rest get the broadheads to group with field points, or just move both groups to the right? They did paper tune it at the bow shop.

Forget about the paper tune. You need to Broadhead tune, that means moving your rest. If your broad heads are hitting left of center make very small adjustments to the right if there hitting right move the rest left. Your BH should eventually group with your field point.

This!   

 

[OltHunter]

Agreed on the last couple posts.

Another thing to look at is your draw weight and point weight. What are those? You seem severely under spined.

If you have to move your rest more than 1/16" you should be fixing lean/spine/something else. Everything should be tuned around factory suggested center shot.

I also can't speak to a Bear for tune ability.

There is also nothing wrong with mechanicals as well. Not my choice, but would happily support someone's decision to use them.

A poor tolerance broadhead will never tune well.

[Come Get Some]

Do you still have tuning issues?  Have you ever walk back tuned?
 Guarantee it will solve the problem. Paper wjetjer it is bare shaft or fletched is a waste of time.
 All bows are center shot bows.
 Set your rest at 3/4" to center of arrow, place D loop[nocking point] a slight bubble high. Very slight.
 Set top cam a little faster than the bottom cam.
 Get as close to zero at 20 yds as possible.
 Shoot an arrow in the bale at 20 yds
  Walk back to 30 yds, aim at the first with your 20 yd pin
 Since you have moved to 30 yds you poi t of impact will be slightly lower.
 If your point of impact is right move your rest slightly to the left, if it is to the left move your rest slightly to the right
 Make sure it is a good shot. Once your pojnt if impact is directly below your first arrow all of your broadheads and field point will fly the same as long as your arrows are properly spined and you have no vane contact issues.
 4 fletched arrows also are a must. Sloves alot of broadhead tuning issues.
 Feel free to pm me for more information if needed.

[branches]

Walk back tuning sure has helped me. You can see the difference in your bow when shooting at longer distances.

[Come Get Some]

Night and day difference

[Parasite]

One of the best tuning improvements I ever made to my setup was buying arrows that were better quality (Black Eagle), offset fletching, and more importantly having the arrows spine indexed. Makes a world of difference. Hang out on the ArcheryTalk forum for more and better advice.