BROADHEAD QUESTION

[akirkland]

I'm just curious as to what kind of broadheads you guys are running these days. I shoot a 08 Bowtech Guardian with a 28.5 draw length set at 65 pounds. I've always had good luck with the BEMAN ICS Hunter 340's with 2 inch blazers. So I'm gonna stick with them. Ive used Muzzys and Thunderheads in the past. Ive taken deer with both broadheads but i know there are better products out there. Laugh if ya want but i really liked the Muzzys. Problem is... out of a pack of 6, every one of them weighed 3 to 6 grains shy of the 100gr. they should have weighed. So what do you guys think? I would appreciate any suggestions, info or ideas regarding this subject. Thanks!

[Kain]

I am using the shuttle T-lock just becuase SOOO many guys recommend them and I really dont have the time and money to try a bunch of different heads.  I have not stuck an animal but they do fly nice.

[JPhelps]

I shoot 100 gr. slick tricks and they work well. 
The price is right and they are tough as nails. 

[Sliverslinger]

This is one of those things that could go on forever. Everyone has a particular broadhead and a reason why it is better than others. I think there are a ton of them out there that will do the job and it seems like everything is a tradeoff... Slicktricks, Muzzys, Grizztricks, Copperheads, Montecs, Strikers, Shuttle T's, they all have great qualities. In my opinion the very best broadheads available are the Silver Flames but I certainly don't have the money to shoot them. I've been using G5 Montecs for a while and I think they are a very solid and dependable head. I'm going to try G5 Strikers this year because I think they are quite a bit sharper, though a little less durable than the Montecs, and they have a slightly bigger cutting diameter. I've also considered trying the Slick Tricks and Grizztricks. Really, it boils down to which one your confident in and can place your arrow right in the boiler room. I think the cheapies no-name brand broadheads at Wal-mart would do the the job if placed in the right spot. However, confidence in your equipment is a big factor so let that be your guide in choosing. Best of luck this year!

[RadSav]

There are more Crappy broadheads out there today than ever before.  So your question is really quite a good one.  Muzzy and NAP Thunderheads are popular for a reason - they are a well made product at a very affordable price.  NAP and the four blade Muzzy use a good quality stainless for reasonably sharp blades.  Starting this year Slick Trick will finally be adding a quality stainless blade to their design.  With the new Rage owners I expect that we will see the return of Rocky Mountain.  Whether they will return with the usual Rocky Mountain quality we will have to see.

If not for the shape of the Shuttle-T blade they might never work or become popular.  Of all the blades I have tested to date they are head and shoulders above everyone else in the "Dull" blade category.  Does make them safe to handle as you never need to worry about cutting yourself.

The problem in getting a good answer about a broadhead is most archers have never killed anything and yet commit themselves to passing advise as if they actually have expanded knowledge on the subject.  Others that have seen some success have not experienced enough to fully understand what a good broadhead does or does not.  Figuring instead to grade a broadhead based on whether they recovered the animal and how big the hole is.  An animal shot through the lungs that was recovered two miles away with a five inch hole in it's side is praised to have been shot by "The Worlds Greatest Broadhead Ever!"

In Oregon I stopped to help a guy who was flagging me down out in the woods.  He had no arrows in his quiver and was extremely excited.  He went on and on about how fantastic the broadheads were that he was shooting. "They are absolutely the best"  he exclaimed,  "I have never hit anything in five years with my bow and this year I hit that cow eight times out of eight shots!" 

After he slowed down a bit I asked where the cow was and if he needed any help packing her out.  He said the last time he had seen her she was going over that ridge about a quarter mile from our position.  Three hours later I finally put her out of her misery with a Savora tipped arrow at 80 yards.  You would have thought I might have been able to get closer than that since she had eight of the greatest broadheads in the world in her.

My point is - Some heads are popular for a reason.  They work!  Look for sharpness, flight characteristics and durability.  Beware of experts that claim one thing about a broadhead, but have never seen an animal drop within 20 yards of being shot.  And if you can not cut a piece of paper with it when you take it out of the package don't expect it to do any better with hair, hide and artery walls.

I have never seen an elk wear a cinder block jacket or hide behind a 50 gallon drum.  But, I have seen a well designed broadhead with good sharp blades take the life out of a bull faster than you can say, "Wholly Crap I hit him!"

[Button Nubbs]

#1 magnus stingers or buzzcuts.

#2 shuttle-t

[JLS]

I think if you stick with Magnus, Slick Trick, VPA Terminators or Montecs you really can't go wrong.

One thing to consider is the better quality heads will also spin better and fly better from your bow.

[STIKNSTRINGBOW]

There are way too many options, lots of good ones, I suggest the best you can afford.
In my early Archery days, I heard a lot of hype about all kinds of broadheads, but almost all my friends were using 125gr Thunderheads.
I personnally killed 4 deer and an Elk with them, and they performed almost flawlessly, even used one twice, first on a deer, then an Elk (after replacing blades)
after taking up a recurve, I have used several different glue on broadheads, successfully on both deer and Elk,
from Bear "Geenheads" to Zwicky, as has been stated, good steel, SHARP, and as solid as possible, and SHARP !!, did I mention SHARP ?

[BowBender87]

Up until this year ive shot the G5 montec 100grain.  Ive taken 5 elk with them but have never been impressed with the blood trails.  The only reason ive been able to find the elk ive shot is theyve fallen within sight or ive had to do some hands and knees tracking. This year im switching to the muzzy 4 blade.  They are a much sharper broadhead out of the package, i just hope they are as strong as the montecs.  But regardless of how sharp the blades are...they wont help unless you put em in the pump house.   

[RadSav]

Up until this year ive shot the G5 montec 100grain.  Ive taken 5 elk with them but have never been impressed with the blood trails.  The only reason ive been able to find the elk ive shot is theyve fallen within sight or ive had to do some hands and knees tracking. This year im switching to the muzzy 4 blade.  They are a much sharper broadhead out of the package, i just hope they are as strong as the montecs.  But regardless of how sharp the blades are...they wont help unless you put em in the pump house.   

Good choice!  You should find them plenty durable enough for animals.  The best blade in the Muzzy line without question.  Huge improvement over the three blade models.

I should have a new digital camera for the Leitz metalurgical microscope in a month or so.  Currently I can only take 35mm or Polaroid.  I'll post pictures of blade edges before and after shots through a contant source of resistance like ethafoam or laminated cardboard.  The results will change the way you look at broadhead blades forever.

[GreatWhiteHunter]

Thunderhead 125's. For 3 or 4 years now. I've had killer performance. I tried them because they were on sale at GI Jews, and really liked them. I put one through a does two front shoulders, and it was a full pass through. And was in shootable condition afterwards.

Second choice shuttle T locks. A couple friends use them, and have nothin but good things to say. Even thought of switching this year to em myself. Ive shot a couple target shooting, and they seem to fly great when properly tuned.

[MIKEXRAY]

I also shoot the Beman ics hunters with 2 inch blazers and I have been shooting the G5 Stryker's  in 100 gr.   The Strykers have the replaceable blades as I am not that adept at sharpening.  Mine hit the same as field points as far as impact out to 60 yards and my broadhead shots actually seem more stable throughout the flight.  I've only shot one animal, a mule deer  @ 20 yards. He dropped in sight about 30 yards away.  The blood coming out of his side looked like a garden hose on about half way, broadhead hit far leg bone & held together just fine.  I have only shot a couple of heads and am no expert but with the results I have shooting I'm not going to mess around searching for better.   Mike

[Crunchy]

I am a slick trick 100 fan.  Been shooting those for the last few years.  I prefer a replaceable blade, with a chisel tip, rather than cut on contact.  I have killed elk with Muzzy and G5 strikers, but didnt like the performance of either. 

[Battle Ready]

Ive shot so many different types of broadheads that I feel like I know a of just a few that I feel comfortable taking a life with.

I primarily look at blade sharpness, not just out of the box, but a few days out of the box...that's why fresh blades are a must for me. Spend some time with a microscope and you will see what sharp is, and what polished metal is.

I shot the Shuttle T-loc, and I was called on its sharpness after a well placed shot turned into a much farther recovery than was needed. I was embarrassed that I didn't really look at the broadhead blades well because they came so highly recommended. My friends know I do my very best to make sure the kill is as swift as possible, and that I hold them just as accountable. It was hard eating my words. The next season I shot another deer, nearly identically in location to the deer last year..and it wobbled over within 10 yards...with an outstanding blood trail.....that deer was killed with the Savora Contender.

I don't know why its so important to have broadheads that shoot through cinder block, but I do know that I never heard my bowhunting idols brag about being able to shoot the bricks or barrels...but went on and on about how sharp they got their blades. Ive seen more than one picture of Fred bear with band aids on his finger tips...lol. I myself sport a few scars from sharp blades and a little carelessness.

So, find the broadhead that flys well for your set up...first question your set up..and make sure its all tunes very well. Then question yourself...is it you or you bow...then look at the broadhead if its not flying well. BUT SHARPNESS IS NUMBER ONE...Stay away from any broadhead thats dull, no matter how strong it is. The one thing that is real...critters die much faster when arteries are cut, not so fast when a hole is punched through.

Good luck with finding the broadhead thats best for you..keep em sharp.

[BOWHUNTER45]

I have shot Wasp for many years and I will never change ....give the 100gr wasp boss 3 blade a try and watch animals die ...if you hit them right I guarantee Ray charles will follow the blood trail .... Like someone said above ...most of the animals I have shot died right before my eyes ......