The title I wanted to use but seemed too long for the subject space is
How to make your KORO rodent traps more lethal without actually modifying them.
I planned on writing an article for the Fur Shed about this but what I am finding out seemed to important to wait until the next Edition. I think I will write a longer more comprehensive story about this for the Spring Edition. I hope John doesn't get mad for putting this out early.
Many of you know I have been fooling with these traps for a while, probably longer than anyone else. I have tried a lot of tweeks to make them work better with somewhat inconsistent results. Of course constrained by the fact we cannot significantly modify these traps and stay within the letter of the law. That being said I have tried a lot of minor modifications. I have come to the conclusion the traps are best used right out of the box. You don't need to do anything to them however there are a couple things you can do that make them deadly
Lubrication : if you will notice the hinge part of the jaw is a hollow pin that doesn't come quite together on one side. These have a name which escapes me. It fits over the frame of the trap. All that contact creates a lot of friction. When the traps are new it is not so noticeable but that friction slows the trap down. Especially so after a year when it takes on a little rust or if you do like I did and dip them. That gums them up a bit and slows them down. It can get so bad they won't even close all the way and be as slow as molasses.
Put a little lubrication on them and they are faster and more powerful then when they came out of the box. I used some silicone spray lubricant. Spray a little along that gap in the pin when sprung and set. Then give it another spray, same gap when set. Work it back and forth a couple times and you are good to go. Probably any spray lube would work as well. I don't think any of the animals these traps are set for will be bothered by the smell. We are not trapping coyotes here you know.
A striker bar on your box: We can't modify the trap but we can build the box to accomplish the same thing. Guys have asked me about welding a striker bar on the jaw and I have told them no. Last year I decided to try something similar on the box. Pretty simple really. Just a piece of 3/4 angle iron attached to the box. The traps lower bar is tight to the angle iron and the striking jaw goes over it. Angle iron is 2 1/4 inches wide. Kind of a dislocater effect. I remember there was a killer trap company that made conibears with the jaws offset. Kind of the same idea.
I use a paperclip to hold the trap tight in the box. The results have been great. Out of 14 now I have had one last long enough to dislodge the paperclip. They are dead and never move for the most part. All have been dead, even the one that did move the paperclip. Pretty quick kill!
Here's a few pictures to show what I am talking about.
One more thing, don't get your fingers in the way once you do this or you will regret it.
