What arrow and broadhead should I switch too?

[Russ McDonald]

If anyone watched the sportsmens channel last weekend you would of seen what happened with those mechanicals ,,,,2 shows in a row where the deer were lost ... One was hit in the shoulder and left a huge hole but never recovered and the second was hit high above the lungs and again a huge hole and not recovered  and both were shot from a tree stand ...and the best part for me was they showed trailcam pictures of the bucks after the season was over and went on to say the deer lived ...O.K but the holes just heeled up and no marks of being hit were found ...YEAH RIGHT 

I would think same thing can happen with and fixed blade broadhead....it is called shot placement.....look at my thread with the pictures that buck was shot in the shoulder.  I will say though that not all broadheads are created equal either.

[RadSav]

Sort of like asking NASCAR fans what car to drive.  Never leads to much, but I'll try to help.

85 grain TH's should completely screw up your FOC and yet you say they flew better beyond 40 yards.  So what that is telling you is that the planing surface of the blades is having a larger impact on your grouping than FOC.  So I would not be asking myself what broadhead I should change to.  I would be asking myself, "Why?"  All has to do with how your arrow is flying, how it is tuned, where your positive and negative energies are and how surface area and aerodynamics are effected by those things.

I would venture to say you are shooting straight fletched vanes or damn near it.  Perhaps very flexible vanes that are chattering at those speeds.  Might be a certain speed that the vanes do not like.  That is one of the things that makes the Blazer, Max Hunter and other stiff short vanes so good.  You will probably be served better by changing the fletching and increasing your helical/offset than you would be changing broadheads.  If your Thunderhead 100's do not fly well going to a smaller profile head is just putting a bandaide on a compound fracture.  May stop the bleeding, but the bone is still broken.

I am quite anal about my arrows and my tuning.  I go so far as to make my own brass inserts so I can hit the exact FOC that has proven best for me.  I only use one single fletching jig so every arrow is fletched exactly the same as the rest.  Yes it is overkill, but it makes my brain happy.  And yet with all that my favorite broadhead profile is near identical to that of the Thunderhead 100.  I can make and/or use whatever broadhead I want and yet that is the profile I prefer for myself.  No change in my groups between broadheads and field points 30, 50 or 100 yards.

I've been making quite a few different heads.  Some short and wide, some long and skinny and some similar to the WASP Bullet.  Not a single one of them shoot any different out of my equipment than the other at any range.  It's all in the tuning, FOC, spine match and force of gyroscopic precession.

I would definately focus on my arrow and tuning first.  Then decide if you wanted to change broadhead profile once the bones have been reset and healed.

[Mudman]

Ok.  I will switch to ics with blazers.  Radsav you are right i am shooting standard 4 inch vanes.  The thunderheads do fly better than the muzzy.  I will do this first before monkey with heads.  What is a realistic grouping to be expected at 60yards with broadheads for an average shooter? I am thinking 6inches.

[BOWHUNTER45]

I am just being me  But its a proven fact a fixed blade will have a better chance of penetrating a shoulder than a mechanical . that's all I am saying 

[RadSav]

Ok.  I will switch to ics with blazers.  Radsav you are right i am shooting standard 4 inch vanes.  The thunderheads do fly better than the muzzy.  I will do this first before monkey with heads.  What is a realistic grouping to be expected at 60yards with broadheads for an average shooter? I am thinking 6inches.

Make sure they are helical or heavily offset.  Maybe even 4 fletched.  I use Blazers four fletched and Max Hunter's three fletched.

I think the average guy that has been shooting for a while with good form and tuned equipment should try to accomplish groupings of 1" per ten yards regularly.  You will have your good days and your bad, but that is realistic for consistancy.  You should never settle for your broadhead groups to be any larger than your field point groups.  No reason they should be different if you are tuned properly and shooting without a lot of wind and rain.

[Mudman]

 :tup:Thanks for info. 1 inch per ten yards, got that with field tips.

[coachcw]

maxima hunter 350s four fletch rh helical blazers ans 100 slick tricks . you will be hitting your field points . I cross x the fletchs to the string and line the blade up with the string . although I like the wieght forward maxima hunters there are many good arrow choices . get away from those store baught three fltech arrows and you will be happy.

[Mudman]

 

maxima hunter 350s four fletch rh helical blazers ans 100 slick tricks . you will be hitting your field points . I cross x the fletchs to the string and line the blade up with the string . although I like the wieght forward maxima hunters there are many good arrow choices . get away from those store baught three fltech arrows and you will be happy.

I have been reading up on those arrows.  Thanks.

[Mudman]

Okay carbon ex maxima hunter 350 blazers at a 29halfinch arrow with shuttle 125s.  Shot a little to 40yards and so far very pleased!  Question is what is proper technique for aligning broadhead with fletching?  Inline or opposite or whatever flys best?

[Button Nubbs]

Dosent matter.

[RadSav]

Dosent matter.

If your arrows are tuned there is no difference.  If you arrows are flying poorly it does make them fly more consistently poor.  That's all.  No aerodynamic benefit. 

When shooting "point of aim" a consistant alignment does give you a more consistant visual reference.  But, that can be any reference to fletching you prefer.

My Bowtech's shoot best when the arrow is close to the riser.  On those bows I do align the broadheads to better clear the riser since I draw the broadhead over my hand.  That is the only time I worry about it when shooting a bowsight.

[Axle]

arrow choice is alright ...just need to screw in a 100 gr Wasp Boss and problem solved ... Again just one out of thousand opinions on here ...I love being alone 

You are not alone. I use Wasp too. Been using them for years. 

[BOWHUNTER45]

arrow choice is alright ...just need to screw in a 100 gr Wasp Boss and problem solved ... Again just one out of thousand opinions on here ...I love being alone 

You are not alone. I use Wasp too. Been using them for years. 

holy sheet ...you are kidding right 

[Axle]

holy sheet ...you are kidding right 

When I couldn't get the highly advertised brands to fly straight  , someone said 'try the wasp'. I did and never looked back.

[BOWHUNTER45]

Thats what I am saying ...Now they have made the Boss and the Bullet and thats sweeter yet ..