Selecting the correct arrow spline?

[Yankee]

I'm curious what you guys think would be the correct splined arrow for my set-up:
- Bowtech Insanity CPLX
-70 lb draw weight
-30.25" arrows
-125 gr tips

I'm currently shooting Carbon Express Maxima Hunters with a 350 spline, but I'm wondering if this is too weak?  By paper tune, it seems to be shooting okay, but I'm not getting very good grouping out at 50 yards, which could certainly be my own fault.  It's shooting about 315 FPS at the moment.  Should I step up to 300's instead?

[owmygulay]

What is your draw length?

[Old Dog]

300.  Based on the length of your arrow, the poundage of your bow, and the 125 grain tip alone.  If you take into consideration that you are using a release (I assume), you are drawing more than 28" (based on your arrow lenghth), and your bow is rated at 330 FPS you have to adjust the actual peak wieght of your bow up by 10 pounds.  Your bow is set at 70#, but it acts on the arrow as though it were 80#.  It's called adjusted peak weight.  Hopefullt RadSav will chime in, and explain it a little better.

That should be a killer set up for elk.

[RadSav]

I'm curious what you guys think would be the correct splined arrow for my set-up:
- Bowtech Insanity CPLX
-70 lb draw weight
-30.25" arrows
-125 gr tips

I'm currently shooting Carbon Express Maxima Hunters with a 350 spline, but I'm wondering if this is too weak?  By paper tune, it seems to be shooting okay, but I'm not getting very good grouping out at 50 yards, which could certainly be my own fault.  It's shooting about 315 FPS at the moment.  Should I step up to 300's instead?

Can't get much better spline in an all carbon arrow than the CE Maxima.  But if you want to know about which spine would be better we can match best if we have your bows draw length.  Sounds like one heck of a good setup you have there

I think Old Dog is probably right on with the 300 spine weight.  Though the Insanity CPXL is rated at 340 IBO not 330 (so dang hard on dynamic spine) I think he may have thought Invasion CPX instead of Insanity.  I assume you meant CPXL instead of CPLX too   But, lets get draw length first just to be certain.  Include your personal height as well as a 30.25" arrow is pretty darn long.

Poor groups at 50 yards probably has nothing to do with the arrow spine.  Even a weak spined all carbon arrow should be stable by then.  50 yards is where you start really noticing all the little things in form and vertical stability.  Without writing another magazine article here there are some little things that help big at 50 yards;
*  Be sure to concentrate on the pin and know where the target is rather than the other way around. 
*  Shoot a sight with a bubble level.  Makes little difference at 20 but a huge difference at 50. 
*  If right handed place arrows on the ground and to your left.  So often guys start reaching for that next arrow before they have followed through with the shot they are taking.  Making it harder to get to the next arrow slows you down and often helps.

[Yankee]

Thanks for the input guys.  Yes, its a CPXL.  I'm 6'3", and am shooting a 31.5" draw.  I know this is too long according to the calcs, but shorter draws bother my shoulder and feels really uncomfortable.

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[RadSav]

Thanks for the input guys.  Yes, its a CPXL.  I'm 6'3", and am shooting a 31.5" draw.  I know this is too long according to the calcs, but shorter draws bother my shoulder and feels really uncomfortable.

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31.5" draw, 30.5" arrow, 70# and Maxima 350/340 Spine arrow    I would stop shooting the 340 spine arrow right now!  You are about 15# over weight for that spine weight.  Even at the 450/300 spine you are 9# over weight for the 300 spine weight shaft.  I would switch to the 300's right away.  And probably drop some weight too.

I take back what I said about 50 yard groups!  That much weakness of spine may very well be effecting accuracy at 50.  And 40, 30 & 20 as well.  Just might not be as noticeable at the closer distances.  Being 1.5" too long in draw length might be starting to show some signs at that 50 yard distance as well.  It's often hard to get consistant hand pressure on the grip when the draw length is that long.  That distance is also far enough that facial contact might be starting to show some accuracy issues.

When I started bowhunting I really wanted to shoot 2219's and Zwickey Black Diamond Deltas.  It just sounded way too cool not to   Problem back then was that no one made an 80# bow unless you were shooting 31 inches of draw length.  So I bought a 29-31# draw bow and shot it at 31 even though I was 29".  And I shot it great that first year!  High wrist, hips forward, shoulders back was so comfortable it felt like I was sitting in a recliner while I was shooting.  Well, until I wanted to shoot a goat on Catalina almost straight down  

Then things started to unravel that next season.  The more they unraveled the more I practiced.  Until finally target panic set in so badly I shot second to last place in the state shoot!  27 years later and lessons from some of the best coaches on earth I am barely able to control my target panic while shooting the proper form, proper weight and proper draw length.  I can never just relax and shoot mindlessly or bad things happen   Very, very bad things

I would be very interested to see what your wingspan is.  Some pictures of you at full draw would be beneficial as well.  Pain control and comfort are important in shooting well.  But you want to make sure in doing so you don't ruin yourself for the future.  I'd hate to see anyone experience the pain and frustrations I've had to endure over the past few decades.

[demontang]

My insanity cpx at 70lbs and 30" draw needs a true 300 arrow. The 340 dont shoot well out of it id change arrow spine. Its pretty limited in what artows come in 300 spine, im using axis right now.

[Yankee]

I appreciate the advice guys.  Radsav- I've been meaning to set my gopro up and take some video of me shooting just so I can see what my form looks like, maybe I'll take some stills from that and post up for all to critique.  When I've tried setting my draw shorter than 31.5, it feels like I'm stopping short on the draw.  I usually locate my string so that it's touching the tip of my nose at full draw. So, when I set up a shorter DL, my right arm (I'm left handed) feels bent too much, and I get a twinge in my shoulder when I hold that position.  At 31.5" I'm not slapping my sleeve with my string (which I think is one sign of having a DL set too long).

In any case,  I'll definitely switch to a 0.300 spine arrow- it looks like the Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 450 would do the trick. Beman has a couple of 0.3 options as well.

David

[D-Rock425]

Wish I had a longer draw

[RadSav]

I appreciate the advice guys.  Radsav- I've been meaning to set my gopro up and take some video of me shooting just so I can see what my form looks like, maybe I'll take some stills from that and post up for all to critique.  When I've tried setting my draw shorter than 31.5, it feels like I'm stopping short on the draw.  I usually locate my string so that it's touching the tip of my nose at full draw. So, when I set up a shorter DL, my right arm (I'm left handed) feels bent too much, and I get a twinge in my shoulder when I hold that position.  At 31.5" I'm not slapping my sleeve with my string (which I think is one sign of having a DL set too long).

The body is capable of conforming to quite a bit.  I used the same anchor point at 31 than I did at 29.  But the hips, balance, head and wrist were all out of alignment.  It did feel extremely comfortable and I liked it all the way up to getting into trouble.  I will PM you my email address just in case you want to email those photos more private.