Leaving montec in the dust!!

[JJD]

Ive shot the muzzy mx3 and they seem to be a great head, the g5 striker are going to be my next buy. Ive been spinning heads and checking the weights. The g5 strikers where all the same 102 grs for about 12 heads and spin very nice. The muzzy all hit 100gr and the 125 hit 125grs, some spin great others not so well. Slick trick was 100-104grs over 6 heads, wasp boss 102grs, shuttle t where 102-108grs, and the thunder heads where 102grs over 8 heads. Most of the heads where spinning great on my beman pro hunters and the kinectic too.

A little plumbers thread tape and they all should spin fine.  Except maybe a Shuttle-T here or there.  Even then nothing to worry about if you have adequate fletching.

I'm guessin you are talkin teflon tape.  What does it do?  Applied to the broadhead threads?

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

Slick trick griz trick.  They are 1 1/4" cutting diameter.

[Button Nubbs]

Slick trick griz trick.  They are 1 1/4" cutting diameter.

broke a blade and a rib of a bull I shot with those.

[CoryTDF]

Slick trick griz trick.  They are 1 1/4" cutting diameter.

broke a blade and a rib of a bull I shot with those.

Did you kill the bull? Is this your way of saying you are happy or unhappy with them?

[Button Nubbs]

Slick trick griz trick.  They are 1 1/4" cutting diameter.

broke a blade and a rib of a bull I shot with those.

Did you kill the bull? Is this your way of saying you are happy or unhappy with them?

I killed and recovered the bull shot it at 930 am jumped it twice during the day and let him lay over night. Found him in time without losing meat but it was getting close. I won't shoot them again.

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

I've been reading another post about that on another forum.  Sounds like the new grizz trick 2 has a larger metal peice in the back of the blade.  But many folks had the same blade breaking problems.  Good to know.  Thanks.

[CementFinisher]

magnus snuffer ss anyone?

[RadSav]

Ive shot the muzzy mx3 and they seem to be a great head, the g5 striker are going to be my next buy. Ive been spinning heads and checking the weights. The g5 strikers where all the same 102 grs for about 12 heads and spin very nice. The muzzy all hit 100gr and the 125 hit 125grs, some spin great others not so well. Slick trick was 100-104grs over 6 heads, wasp boss 102grs, shuttle t where 102-108grs, and the thunder heads where 102grs over 8 heads. Most of the heads where spinning great on my beman pro hunters and the kinectic too.

A little plumbers thread tape and they all should spin fine.  Except maybe a Shuttle-T here or there.  Even then nothing to worry about if you have adequate fletching.

I'm guessin you are talkin teflon tape.  What does it do?  Applied to the broadhead threads?

Most all broadhead ferrules are turned on a swiss screw machine.  So it is nearly impossible to make one crooked.  Same thing on inserts.  But one broadhead might be on the shy side of AMO standard male thread dimensions and one insert might be heavy on the female thread dimensions.  Sometimes this leads to alignment that is not quite perfect for alignment Nazis'.  Generally a few wraps on the threads and first 3/16" of the parallel section will take up any sloppiness between the male and female pieces making them spin true.  This also keeps broadheads and field points from working loose while shooting or rattling around.

Works really good for keeping your sight screws and stabilizer from working loose too!

Warning:  A little tape goes a long way.  Usually only takes two or three wraps.  If you get too much tape sometimes it can get very difficult to get your points out of the inserts.

[CoryTDF]

Went with Slick Trick Magnums 100 grains . Looks like the Shuttle T lock would have been good as well but They are $10 more. When buying a dozen heads that adds up. I'll try these out this year and see what happens.

[h2ofowlr]

Ive shot the muzzy mx3 and they seem to be a great head, the g5 striker are going to be my next buy. Ive been spinning heads and checking the weights. The g5 strikers where all the same 102 grs for about 12 heads and spin very nice. The muzzy all hit 100gr and the 125 hit 125grs, some spin great others not so well. Slick trick was 100-104grs over 6 heads, wasp boss 102grs, shuttle t where 102-108grs, and the thunder heads where 102grs over 8 heads. Most of the heads where spinning great on my beman pro hunters and the kinectic too.

A little plumbers thread tape and they all should spin fine.  Except maybe a Shuttle-T here or there.  Even then nothing to worry about if you have adequate fletching.

I used to use the bow string wax that comes in the tube.  I would rub the threads across it and screw them in.  Worked very good as well.
I'm guessin you are talkin teflon tape.  What does it do?  Applied to the broadhead threads?

Most all broadhead ferrules are turned on a swiss screw machine.  So it is nearly impossible to make one crooked.  Same thing on inserts.  But one broadhead might be on the shy side of AMO standard male thread dimensions and one insert might be heavy on the female thread dimensions.  Sometimes this leads to alignment that is not quite perfect for alignment Nazis'.  Generally a few wraps on the threads and first 3/16" of the parallel section will take up any sloppiness between the male and female pieces making them spin true.  This also keeps broadheads and field points from working loose while shooting or rattling around.

Works really good for keeping your sight screws and stabilizer from working loose too!

Warning:  A little tape goes a long way.  Usually only takes two or three wraps.  If you get too much tape sometimes it can get very difficult to get your points out of the inserts.

[GorgeCustomCoatings]

I personally shoot Montec's, but I have a buddy who believe it or not shoots various broadheads thru road signs (ones that have been pulled down for wear/tear) and sees which one looks the best after hitting a metal sign. His answer hands down is Shuttle T's.  Kinda  a crazy testing scenario but he swears by the results.

[Dr. Death]

Shot Thunderheads and Wasp for years, switched to Shuttle T 100 gr last year and couldn't be happier. Shot through both my Bull and buck last year, both went less then 30 yards.

[RadSav]

I personally shoot Montec's, but I have a buddy who believe it or not shoots various broadheads thru road signs (ones that have been pulled down for wear/tear) and sees which one looks the best after hitting a metal sign. His answer hands down is Shuttle T's.  Kinda  a crazy testing scenario but he swears by the results.

So next time an animal is hiding behind a road sign your good to go  
Crazy what some guys believe is the most important aspect of broadhead performance. 

Terminal performance of a broadhead is directly related to the interaction of oxygen and sharpness from beginning to end of penetration.  It would be easy to design heads that are superior in every way for durability and penetration of road signs, cinter blocks, steel drums, 3/4" marine grade plywood, bullet proof glass and bovine skapulas, but they would fail in every way to improve upon terminal performance of a properly head treated, strip ground carbon or AEBL stainless razorblade. 

Conjecture and supposition should never be the foundation of a broadheads design.  Known facts through the studies of metallurgical, clinical and medical sciences should be the foundation.  Once that foundation is set only then should the gimmicks of flash and zazzle be framed and finished above.  It is an ethical obligation the designer must endure out of respect for all the animals consumers' will harvest with his/her product.  The designers goal should be to reduce the distance traveled not only on perfect impacts, but less than perfect impacts as well.  He/she should also design to minimize failures while assuring non-lethal impacts heal rapidly with little risk of long term suffering from infection and other related fatal hazards.   Then the biggest challenge of all...putting it all together in a cost appropriate package the end consumer will feel is cool, wicked and sic. 

[superdown]

This will be my first year bow hunting. What broad head would you recommend?

I personally shoot Montec's, but I have a buddy who believe it or not shoots various broadheads thru road signs (ones that have been pulled down for wear/tear) and sees which one looks the best after hitting a metal sign. His answer hands down is Shuttle T's.  Kinda  a crazy testing scenario but he swears by the results.

So next time an animal is hiding behind a road sign your good to go  
Crazy what some guys believe is the most important aspect of broadhead performance. 

Terminal performance of a broadhead is directly related to the interaction of oxygen and sharpness from beginning to end of penetration.  It would be easy to design heads that are superior in every way for durability and penetration of road signs, cinter blocks, steel drums, 3/4" marine grade plywood, bullet proof glass and bovine skapulas, but they would fail in every way to improve upon terminal performance of a properly head treated, strip ground carbon or AEBL stainless razorblade. 

Conjecture and supposition should never be the foundation of a broadheads design.  Known facts through the studies of metallurgical, clinical and medical sciences should be the foundation.  Once that foundation is set only then should the gimmicks of flash and zazzle be framed and finished above.  It is an ethical obligation the designer must endure out of respect for all the animals consumers' will harvest with his/her product.  The designers goal should be to reduce the distance traveled not only on perfect impacts, but less than perfect impacts as well.  He/she should also design to minimize failures while assuring non-lethal impacts heal rapidly with little risk of long term suffering from infection and other related fatal hazards.   Then the biggest challenge of all...putting it all together in a cost appropriate package the end consumer will feel is cool, wicked and sic. 

[RadSav]

This will be my first year bow hunting. What broad head would you recommend?

I spoke with our grinder and stamper last week and we are still 10-12 weeks out on our new production blades.  And I can not make ferrules until first article blades hit my door here in Washington.  So it doesn't look good for new Savora's this year.  But, there are still some good heads being made out there.  I would refer you to my first post on this thread.  Those are fine blades attached to fine ferrules.  You do not get a high carbon blade option, but each of those manufacturers are now using the better stainless in their blades.  I would probably use the Stryker or WASP if I wasn't using my own heads.