Let’s see your jerk line setups

[CP]

Here’s mine –

A wind duck stake anchors 3 foot bungee cord tied to 3 floaters tied 18” apart.  I clip on 100 lb test power-pro which I keep on a cheap fishing reel and run that back to the blind.  I stick a full body field decoy on the anchor stake. 

[h2ofowlr]

Looks like it should work.  I have many variations I have tried.  Keep welding up new spreaders, stakes and gadgets to increase the ripple factor.

[vandeman17]

Any ripples and movement is good movement. I actually broke on of the clips on my jerk cord line and it has worked out better. I put a few geese on the edge of my spread and then the anchor ends up right next to them. First decoy on my line is a goose then there is a gap where the broken clip is then I put on two duck decoys. I actually like the look of it.

[DrakeKill]

i don't have a picture available but..

take a piece of 1x4 board, cut it down about 6-8", then take a jig or hand saw and cut out the top and bottom center leaving about 1/2" of wood on each of the 4 sides should be more or less an H when you are done - this is your line spool (I like this over round spools because I can secure the bungie to an end without having to tie anything or use another bungie for storage and I can wrap the line on a post the same way and use the hole thing as a handle rather than having to pull on the line itself - makes it a lot easier to pick up off the ground or boat floor and not have to take my eyes off working birds)

1/8" round nylon utility line; I keep a couple hundred feet on mine but use what you like

1/4" shock cord as the bungee (I use 100% stretch rated cord) - I use about 3 feet; seems to be just about right for play versus pull on the string

6lb down rigger ball (enough weight to hold even a big set but still pull out and pack, and you don't have to worry about water depth or trying to drive a steak into the rocky bottoms of the Columbia)

attach them all inline in that order

I don't tie permanent loops or use clips (so my rig always spools up nice). Make a bight in the line, twist once, reach the loop just made to the main line right about the twist and pull it through - this basically gives you a nice "slip loop" - not a knot! that can go around any decoy keel (with gloves on too) so I don't have dedicated lineless decoys for the string; I can use any in the bag or change when I want - position the face of the loop in different places on the keel to make the each block turn a little differently on pull for more realistic movement

[h2ofowlr]

If you go to a kite shop you can get the spool or the flat string wrap.  I get the flat plastic string holder and put 200lb braided P-Line.  A little pricey, but works awesome and invisible to the birds.  You can get the bulk bungy at Wal-Mart, Coastal, etc.  Works good.  You don't always have to hook them to decoys.  I have used 1x4 cedar fence  boards, primed marsh grass green, in 12" pieces and drilled holes in each end.  Run those every 24" apart and run 4-5.  You can run a split, like a "Y" with two anchor points and load decoys around these points.  It causes all sorts of ripples.  A dozen decoys can take place of several dozen decoys in the late season.  Giving motion to all them.  No idle floater. 

[magnus100]

Mine is just a 3 pound lead ball with a 2 foot bunji chord and 3 decoys about 2 feet apart. My line is 80 pound powerpro. Works well.