Best after market exhaust?

[Ghost Hunter]

Time to replace the exhaust on my 2005 Ram diesel.  Any recommendations?   Cat back?  Turbo back? 4" vs 5".  Any help appreciated.  Got to get it done before spring bear season.

[Rick]

The factory exhaust is good for about 500hp.  Unless you have plans on more than that I'd just do something similar to stock.

[RIVERRAT]

MBRP ...in my opinion

[Rem14]

MBRP  also, went 4" turbo back stainless on 2000 Ram, easy install

[NW-GSP]

I have the banks monster 5" on my 04 GMC 2500 diesel. Not that loud at idle but it sounds really good when you get on it.

[Ghost Hunter]

Ordered the MBRP SS 5" Cat back.  Hope it's as easy as it sounds.  Looks like I have a project for next weekend.

[coachcw]

Stock pipes with muffler delete !

[snocohunter]

A lot of dodge guys like the Diamond Eye. Depending on what mods you have 4" is usually the best for our common rail trucks.

[longwalker]

MBRP ...in my opinion

Yup

[Special T]

I bought thier Kit for my 03 and installed it. Its sweet! I can tell you tho it is loud when above 2krmp or lugging it at 1300. Cheapest 5" kit i could find and its been working great for over a year now... Highly recommend

http://www.dieselperformancesystem.com/store/dodge/045-07-cummins-59l/exhaust-systems600/dodge-diesel-performance-exhaust-dps17-kit-free-ground-shipping

[JPhelps]

I have a Diamond Eye 5" on my '07 5.9 and love it!!! Low and deep and no annoying drone in the cab.  Not to mention it's one of the cheapest available.

[WoodlandShooter]

The factory exhaust is good for about 500hp.  Unless you have plans on more than that I'd just do something similar to stock.

yup!!
 actually a 4" exhaust is good for over 600 HP. at that level, the difference between a 4" and a 5" exhaust is actually only about 5 HP. hand calc's and also tested by the Ripster himself.

unless you start upgrading fueling AND the turbo, it's not worth doin muich to the exhaust excep a kitty delete.

my 2001 CTD with twins has a 4" exhaust. Primary turbo is a garrett GT42-02 with a 1.15A/R T4 turbine housing. It has a 4" outlet. The engine is currently making 635 RWHP.

[Huntboy]

Stock pipes with muffler delete !

 

[jackelope]

The factory exhaust is good for about 500hp.  Unless you have plans on more than that I'd just do something similar to stock.

 

Unless you want to sound like a Freightliner.

[baker5150]

Stock pipes with muffler delete !

 

I did this to my 06 Ram, still wasn't happy with the EGT's.  Went to AFE 5" SS Turbo back and haven't seen over 1200 degrees since.  Even towing a 10,000 lb trailer over the pass. 

[JJB11B]

Aero Turbine Muffler...

[Special T]

My exhaust needed replacing so i just went bigger. I might add that ive never been able to roll any coal since i went bigger. Rapping it up or getting on it with a trailer blows no coal on my rig...

[WoodlandShooter]

LOL, I can kill all three lanes of traffic!!!

[Mudman]

Stock 4" is good with deletes.  If not that buy the cheapest one. My 05 has stock and a muffler but my kitty ran away.  Muffler might too.   The egt problem is timing/tuning fuel and the 9cm turbo.  Heck I can run 1300egt on stock tune pulling heavy up pass with alot of throttle at 2500rpm.  Our turbo is crap for towing. Its next on my list, not exhaust. (Twins? Hmm)

[WoodlandShooter]

I looked at the stock curves on  our '06 with EFI Live....that post injection event is where all the heat comes from

2200 to 2600 RPM, and the post injection event is off, but outside of that, it is adding fuel.

Under 2200 it is there to help spool the turbo, over 2600 it is there to help clean up the exhaust emissions

[Mudman]

I was told 3rd inj. event is emissions egr stuff and to quiet engine.  The programs use it to their advantage usually rather than disabling it.  Its not responsible for egt temps as the tunes control it completely.  An aftermarket turbo will be around 12cm-14cm exhaust so engine isnt choked.  The stock 9cm isnt good for towing temps but spools quick and low for driving.  Older dodges turbo was 12cm as well.  Tater built turbos-google him- is great upgrade of stockers and cheap and all original 351 turbo. I will likely go with Tater or atsAurora 3000k.

[baker5150]

Stock 4" is good with deletes.  If not that buy the cheapest one. My 05 has stock and a muffler but my kitty ran away.  Muffler might too.   The egt problem is timing/tuning fuel and the 9cm turbo.  Heck I can run 1300egt on stock tune pulling heavy up pass with alot of throttle at 2500rpm.  Our turbo is crap for towing. Its next on my list, not exhaust. (Twins? Hmm)

I dont tow with a tune.  Still need to build the trans.
1300 stock tune is high as hell   I never see anywhere near that pullin hard and heavy over 20.

[Mudman]

Really?  Interesting, 6.7 cummins? The 6.7 turbo I read can adjust from 9cm to 25cm.  What year truck? Stock?  With no tune loaded bed and 27'TT loaded probably around? 8500lbs? 5 people, gross around 19k.  Blewitt pass I layed her to the floor in direct drive stock tune and she ran around 1320egt at 35psi turbo.  I then put edge on tow tune and had some extra power but egts ran mid 1350's.  Put edge to 3 and could not hit her too hard, had to watch gauges but climbed just as well.  Keep in mind Im running 70+mph doing this pushing alot wind at elevation.  Love these cummins. 1300egt is normal max on stock truck these years.  I will not pull at anything over 1350egt sustained and I shoot for less of course.  EFI is best tunes by far but only for 06-up years.

[baker5150]

Really?  Interesting, 6.7 cummins? The 6.7 turbo I read can adjust from 9cm to 25cm.  What year truck? Stock?  With no tune loaded bed and 27'TT loaded probably around? 8500lbs? 5 people, gross around 19k.  Blewitt pass I layed her to the floor in direct drive stock tune and she ran around 1320egt at 35psi turbo.  I then put edge on tow tune and had some extra power but egts ran mid 1350's.  Put edge to 3 and could not hit her too hard, had to watch gauges but climbed just as well.  Keep in mind Im running 70+mph doing this pushing alot wind at elevation.  Love these cummins. 1300egt is normal max on stock truck these years.  I will not pull at anything over 1350egt sustained and I shoot for less of course.  EFI is best tunes by far but only for 06-up years.

I'm in a 06 5.9.   1250 is my max.  I can pull like hell in tow mode, just don't have the trans for it yet.   

[Mudman]

1250 is good.  If I could remember the link off a forum about Cummins testing their engine.  They tested cummins under 100% load 24hours for looong run, months I think. (prolly had remote oiler) egts were mid 1300's and everything was tip top, bearings piston etc.  So Cummins rating was 1300+egts.  Heck the 2nd gen hx35 at 12cm tows great but moves air easier with lower drive pressure but its a 235hp system too. If you running efi your temps will be lower than mine for sure.  Wish they would create efi for older 3rd gens.   These trans can take more then people think.  The boost launchs and racing etc is what kills em off.  Gentle and roll into it helps out alot.  TQ converter slip is first to go it seems but better safe than sorry.  I have worked mine hard with tunes for 25k but smart about it.  Oil and bands every 10k and still good shape at 125k total.

[Special T]

You guys could just use the 6 speed stick instead of those $6k juice boxes. An Automatic IS a wear item. I can buy a lot of clutches for the price of ONE of your rebuilds.

[baker5150]

You guys could just use the 6 speed stick instead of those $6k juice boxes. An Automatic IS a wear item. I can buy a lot of clutches for the price of ONE of your rebuilds.

I wanted a stick when I bought my truck new in 06.  But I need the wife to be comfortable driving it as well.
And the 06 manual has a lower rated towing capacity than the auto.

[Special T]

Ive done a combined weight of 30K Lbs from longview to skagit valley. They work fine for pulling trust me...

[baker5150]

1250 is good.  If I could remember the link off a forum about Cummins testing their engine.  They tested cummins under 100% load 24hours for looong run, months I think. (prolly had remote oiler) egts were mid 1300's and everything was tip top, bearings piston etc.  So Cummins rating was 1300+egts.  Heck the 2nd gen hx35 at 12cm tows great but moves air easier with lower drive pressure but its a 235hp system too. If you running efi your temps will be lower than mine for sure.  Wish they would create efi for older 3rd gens.   These trans can take more then people think.  The boost launchs and racing etc is what kills em off.  Gentle and roll into it helps out alot.  TQ converter slip is first to go it seems but better safe than sorry.  I have worked mine hard with tunes for 25k but smart about it.  Oil and bands every 10k and still good shape at 125k total.

My biggest worry on my trans is the temp.  When pulling in Tow mode the temps climb quickly.  Stock it will hold around 200 all day.
I need to install a lock up switch for the TC.  Lower temps pulling, more torque to the wheels, and better down hill braking. 

[Special T]

I would also add that Ive pulled 26k over the pass and back so many times I lost count. I used to put on 150k miles a year pulling my trailer.

[baker5150]

Ive done a combined weight of 30K Lbs from longview to skagit valley. They work fine for pulling trust me...

I don't doubt it, they are more than capable, but there is no way I could get my wife to do that in Seattle traffic with a manual. 

The 48re with a few mods is absolutely bullet proof.  I am lucky enough to have a good buddy that builds trans. so it wont cost much more than a case of beer in labor.  Just need this one to start acting up to give me a reason to do the build.

[baker5150]

I would also add that Ive pulled 26k over the pass and back so many times I lost count. I used to put on 150k miles a year pulling my trailer.

I pull between 26k and 28k regularly, depending on what Im up to.  The truck does great.

[Special T]

The newer auto's are probably better. I had an older one. It was a dog except on flat level ground and the best thing i did was send it down the road.

For dragging or truck pulls an auto is likely the way to go... but for hauling freight a 6speed stick is the way to go.

[Woodchuck]

Sing it with me boys.....ALLISON. I run Amsoil and trans temps stay at 180 workin hard, 1/4 million on it and don't miss a lick, samples come back beautiful every time. 

[HUNTINCOUPLE]

Sing it with me boys.....ALLISON. I run Amsoil and trans temps stay at 180 workin hard, 1/4 million on it and don't miss a lick, samples come back beautiful every time. 

That's impressive!

[baker5150]

Sing it with me boys.....ALLISON. I run Amsoil and trans temps stay at 180 workin hard, 1/4 million on it and don't miss a lick, samples come back beautiful every time. 

 
We ran a few at work and never had an issue with the trans.  That's one thing GM got right.  It was everything else that turned me away from their 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.  We stopped using them in our fleet, they just couldn't hold up to everyday use.  They just fell apart around themselves. 
Had some engine (Duramax) issues to the point the dealer was just throwing parts at them.  I never felt good about them, we even had the service manager tell us to make sure we swapped the injectors out before the warranty was up.    
Never a transmission issue thou.

[Mudman]

Allisons are the best but-rebuilds cost a lot more when they go.  The 48re is a common swap on newer Rams as it is cheaper and bulletproof for extreme use.  For 3500$ you can have a bulletproof 48re/converter.  Someday mine will be replaced with a Firepunk Trans.  I wanted a stick but it sold in the 2 hours it took me to drive to it.   Clutches are not cheap either.  I like the control of a manual.  I installed a Mystery switch/TQ lock-up. (CHEAP) Very handy, and does help with trans. temps but only at certain points.  To lockup 1-2 gears you need a valve body upgrade.  I dont.  But locking drive and OD is nice and helps coming down pass.  Also I use a race stlye quick flip switch as you may forget its on when stopping.  This can get violent and break shafts as cummins will refuse to die.

[baker5150]

Allisons are the best but-rebuilds cost a lot more when they go.  The 48re is a common swap on newer Rams as it is cheaper and bulletproof for extreme use.  For 3500$ you can have a bulletproof 48re/converter.  Someday mine will be replaced with a Firepunk Trans.  I wanted a stick but it sold in the 2 hours it took me to drive to it.   Clutches are not cheap either.  I like the control of a manual.  I installed a Mystery switch/TQ lock-up. (CHEAP) Very handy, and does help with trans. temps but only at certain points.  To lockup 1-2 gears you need a valve body upgrade.  I dont.  But locking drive and OD is nice and helps coming down pass.  Also I use a race stlye quick flip switch as you may forget its on when stopping.  This can get violent and break shafts as cummins will refuse to die.

Firepunk Trans are the way to go, but shipping it here, and the core back makes it too expensive.   Add the triple disc TC and your pushing $5000 for a mild built trans you could do yourself.

[Mudman]

So true.  I have a builder to build at my specs which happen to mirror Firepunks-almost. I think a turbo will do me in, if I ever get a new turbo.  I did find a new kit for twin turbos and its very cheap.  On3performance.  New untested product.  I hope to see reviews soon. http://www.on3performance.com/shop/2003-07-dodge-cummins-compound-tt/

[WoodlandShooter]

I was told 3rd inj. event is emissions egr stuff and to quiet engine.  The programs use it to their advantage usually rather than disabling it.  Its not responsible for egt temps as the tunes control it completely.  An aftermarket turbo will be around 12cm-14cm exhaust so engine isnt choked.  The stock 9cm isnt good for towing temps but spools quick and low for driving.  Older dodges turbo was 12cm as well.  Tater built turbos-google him- is great upgrade of stockers and cheap and all original 351 turbo. I will likely go with Tater or atsAurora 3000k.

Third event is ONLY for emissions. It is so far retarded (in timing) that the fuel arives too late to add any real power. Economy can drop by ~ 0.5 MPG. That change when towing from 10.5 to 10 MPG is a big hit.

The 1st (pre) event is to quiet the knock.

also, the pre and post event timing is referenced off of the main, so if you change the main timing, both the pre and post change.

Pictured is the pre, main, and post timing maps.

as usual (and we already kinda know this) 2200 RPM is the sweet spot for towing Keeps you from wasting fuel by getting the Post event activated, and it also allows for a slightly more advanced main event timing

[Mudman]

Good info.  My truck likes 2300-2600rpm towing the hills.  Flat land much lower 18-2400rpm?  I run turbo boost up to 36-38psi max on edge.  Heck these are good in stock form but much better with few upgrades.  I understand that programmers can control the injection events and create power with these, pressure, duration and timing.    I really dont know the extra inj. event accounts for much mpg loss.  10mpg?  I ave. 12.5 to NE Wa. 400miles and 14mpg back home.  Towing good size load, and I have heavy foot.  No 50mph here.

[WoodlandShooter]

Heading to the Desert 100 and back we got ~10 pullig the toy hauler, got the same heading to China Hat. This is a smal  trailer, but it is a barn door. Truck has 3.73 gears and is an auto.

My 2001 will get 10.8 doing the same stuff..and it will do it faster. But it has twins, cam, head porting, big injectors (mach 6+) yadda yadda yadda

[Mudman]

Woodland did you check out my link on 3rd gen. twins?  What ya think?  Are you running a program on 3rd gen ?  Im curious how much mpg is effected.  I run edge on 3, 2 tow when hills around and stock up big hills when towing 27'TT.   Normal driving edge on 3, mpg varies 16-20ish depending on alot variables.

[WoodlandShooter]

Woodland did you check out my link on 3rd gen. twins?  What ya think?  Are you running a program on 3rd gen ?  Im curious how much mpg is effected.  I run edge on 3, 2 tow when hills around and stock up big hills when towing 27'TT.   Normal driving edge on 3, mpg varies 16-20ish depending on alot variables.

well, that kit is definately "pretty" Cant tell anything as they dont say diddly about the turbo. Also, it looks ilike it still uses the OEM turbo as the seccondary...so, well, you are still corked there.

Call Source Automotive to get a good set of twins  http://sourceautomotive.biz/

My 3G is still bone stock as the tranny is still bone stock also. If I ever do dive into it, the stock turbo is getting replaced by a Garrett Stage 2, the charge cooler is getting replaced by a BD unit ( I have one on my 2G) The Cam is getting replaced by a Helix II or a Hamilton. The the Kitty is going in the trash.

after all that, then I may just go with a Smarty Jr....oh and a tranny... all that should get it to ~20-22 empty and 12 loaded but I cant justify the cost as of yet.

[Mudman]

Pricey place.  If I do twins it will be a stocker/s472 type kit.  Im researching info on that on3 turbo trying to get info.  Think its about equal to s475?  Great company with the gas turbo community is all I found out so far as this 1st diesel product.  Firepunk tested with them and said real good things about product.  Do you know this company? http://www.agpturbo.com/agp-bw-cummins-5-9-bolt-on-turbo-upgrade/     http://www.theturbopro.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1819  Reasonable prices. ATS Aurora 3k, 62-65-12or14 from Tater is what Im thinking for a good single without crazy mods.  Or twins and arp studs? Want good tow rig.

[WoodlandShooter]

I just built my own twins. Used a Holset HX40 and a Garrett GT42-02.

Been out of the game for a while. Last time I was playing, Piers still had a shop in Abbotsford.