Reloading for accuracy/consistency help

[bullfisher]

Honestly I used an old and very precise balance beam that I later compared to a $300 digital scale.  No difference I could find.

same results here. Balance style are the most consistent. Unless it’s covered in dust or getting some wind from a fan or open window.

To the op.  This may help you out a bit
https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLX2aeFXzRrvfwdl-35vchJhAMdptqoykW

+2 on the beam scale. I recently went back to a beam scale for load work up. Nothing worse then working up a stack for testing only to find your electronic scale was having attitude problems...

[bobcat]

Balance beam scales, what else is there? In 35 years of reloading I've never used anything else. And I'm still using my 35 year old RCBS scale. I don't know much about the electronic scales, other than if you want one that's consistent and reliable you need to spend a good chunk of change. I'll stick with my Lee dippers and my old RCBS scale. I get great SD's when I find the right bullet/powder combination.

[h20hunter]

Definitely something to be said about if it aint broke don't fix it!

[BULLBLASTER]

I use my beam scale to periodically check my electronic

[j_h_nimrod]

Something not mentioned is the reliability of your chronograph. Some are much better at giving you a general speed than an exact speed. FWIW, with my cheap chrono I have never even approached an indicated single digit es with better than most reloading practices, yet a 6” target at 600yds is dead with most 100 yard MOA loads I have. I get a lot of duplicate speeds and then a far out speed that hits within an acceptable distance, not sure if it is the chrono or the fact I am frequently shooting in marginal conditions.

[yorketransport]

I guess I'll be the first one to ask, what's your current load that's giving you the high ES? Odds are that you just need to switch powder.

I've never had a problem getting single digit SDs and an ES of less than 15 using some of the cheapest components I can find. I have a pile of Lee dies, use an old Lyman 505 scale I picked up at a garage sale 10 years ago, anneal whenever I feel like getting around to it, never weight sort my brass, refuse to clean or uniform primer pockets, tumble my brass in the same corn cob/walnut mixed media I've used for the last 3 years, and I'd rather amputate my own arm with a dull hacksaw blade than trim cases.

Where I focus my attention is on picking the right powder for the load I'm trying to come up with. I'll take a 100% case fill over an extra 50 fps any day. With the exception of plinking ammo for handguns and the kids, I weigh every powder charge that I throw and then trickle in the last few granules until I'm happy.

When seating bullets I always seat the bullet half way then rotate the case 180 degrees in the shell holder then seat it the rest of the way. I'm also very consistent with seating pressure. Bottom out the press handle with the same slow and steady force every time.

Don't focus on equipment, focus on technique and using the right components. Using the right powder, right charge and the right primer will help your consistency more than any gadget or trinket somebody tries to sell you.

[j_h_nimrod]

I guess I'll be the first one to ask, what's your current load that's giving you the high ES? Odds are that you just need to switch powder.

I've never had a problem getting single digit SDs and an ES of less than 15 using some of the cheapest components I can find. I have a pile of Lee dies, use an old Lyman 505 scale I picked up at a garage sale 10 years ago, anneal whenever I feel like getting around to it, never weight sort my brass, refuse to clean or uniform primer pockets, tumble my brass in the same corn cob/walnut mixed media I've used for the last 3 years, and I'd rather amputate my own arm with a dull hacksaw blade than trim cases.

Where I focus my attention is on picking the right powder for the load I'm trying to come up with. I'll take a 100% case fill over an extra 50 fps any day. With the exception of plinking ammo for handguns and the kids, I weigh every powder charge that I throw and then trickle in the last few granules until I'm happy.

When seating bullets I always seat the bullet half way then rotate the case 180 degrees in the shell holder then seat it the rest of the way. I'm also very consistent with seating pressure. Bottom out the press handle with the same slow and steady force every time.

Don't focus on equipment, focus on technique and using the right components. Using the right powder, right charge and the right primer will help your consistency more than any gadget or trinket somebody tries to sell you.

I’d like to send you a few of my reloads and see what you get for speed and es. I am very precise in my reloading practices and have trimmed, sorted, trued pockets, etc., etc.  and less than 30fps es is rare on my Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital...  like I mentioned above, I think the area I shoot (fairly over storied) and the cheap chrono lead to the high indicated variations. Overall accuracy is acceptable in most loads. I read about many folks getting single digit es and it just pisses me off...

I have been reloading for well over 20 years and shot a lot for years but only got into more precise loading for long range in the last 10 years. I would like to shoot more but kids and adult responsibilities make my shooting limited.

I plan to get a MagnetoSpeed to remove the light issues I deal with where I typically shoot, but have not yet. I tend to buy guns n ammo before accessories...

[Magnum_Willys]

The very first thing I would try is fire some rounds and don’t clean them in the SS media.  I have found they clean all the carbon out of the necks and make things really inconsistent.  Leave that carbon in there and just run a nylon brush through it.  You’ll be surprised.

Love my ss pin cleaner. Like the shiny new brass results.  Wish I could use it but stuck with 0000 steel wool and nylon brush with graphite to get consistency.   

[jasnt]

My pro chrono was junk! Accuracy or the pro chrono is +/- 2% if I remember right. It will get you close but not accurate enough to go by es or sd. 1% of 3000fps is 30fps. How can it give you even close to an accurate sd

[yorketransport]

My pro chrono was junk! Accuracy or the pro chrono is +/- 2% if I remember right. It will get you close but not accurate enough to go by es or sd. 1% of 3000fps is 30fps. How can it give you even close to an accurate sd

Most folks don't need to buy a high end chronograph like a Magneto or Labradar because they only need to use it a couple time per year. Your best option is to track down somebody close to you who'll let you run a couple shots over their chrony.

Back when I shot primarily standard chamberings and not-so-wildcats I'd just shoot for accuracy and use a chrony to get a rough estimate on my velocity. From there all my data came from actual drops. When I got into more radical wildcatting I used a chronograph to help me gauge my pressures. At that time I used an Oehler 35p and I hated that thing with a passion! Newer chronys like the Magneto sporter are priced so that a couple of buddies could all pitch in and get one to share without breaking the bank.

[HawkCreek]

The very first thing I would try is fire some rounds and don’t clean them in the SS media.  I have found they clean all the carbon out of the necks and make things really inconsistent.  Leave that carbon in there and just run a nylon brush through it.  You’ll be surprised.

Love my ss pin cleaner. Like the shiny new brass results.  Wish I could use it but stuck with 0000 steel wool and nylon brush with graphite to get consistency.

If you dry tumble with corn cob media you get the same shiny brass on the outside, only takes about 4 hours total. Once its loaded up you cant ever tell what the inside looked like so who cares.

[JeffRaines]

I guess I'll be the first one to ask, what's your current load that's giving you the high ES? Odds are that you just need to switch powder.

I've never had a problem getting single digit SDs and an ES of less than 15 using some of the cheapest components I can find. I have a pile of Lee dies, use an old Lyman 505 scale I picked up at a garage sale 10 years ago, anneal whenever I feel like getting around to it, never weight sort my brass, refuse to clean or uniform primer pockets, tumble my brass in the same corn cob/walnut mixed media I've used for the last 3 years, and I'd rather amputate my own arm with a dull hacksaw blade than trim cases.

Where I focus my attention is on picking the right powder for the load I'm trying to come up with. I'll take a 100% case fill over an extra 50 fps any day. With the exception of plinking ammo for handguns and the kids, I weigh every powder charge that I throw and then trickle in the last few granules until I'm happy.

When seating bullets I always seat the bullet half way then rotate the case 180 degrees in the shell holder then seat it the rest of the way. I'm also very consistent with seating pressure. Bottom out the press handle with the same slow and steady force every time.

Don't focus on equipment, focus on technique and using the right components. Using the right powder, right charge and the right primer will help your consistency more than any gadget or trinket somebody tries to sell you.

Theres no load yet, its just something I've noticed with my loads in the past.

I have the ProChrono as well - I do quite often get "duplicates", however most have come with factory ammo.

I may try picking up a different powder trickler as well. The one I have came with the kit, so if its like most of the other stuff theres probably better out there. I know it isn't going to make a difference, but it might be easier to trickle the charges up than it is now.

I will try rotating it 180 as you mentioned.

One thing that I've had trouble with is getting the bullet seated to the proper length every time. I'm forever adjusting the die itself to make sure its the right depth.

[birddogdad]

all things loaded consistently, and by lots . Next that will help most is NECK TENSION . setup your dies with proper expander balls or bushings or both.... (if you run those) to set 2 or 3 thou. same every time on the squeeze.. remember hardened cases affect this as well. If your going to go long, i would look into annealing processes. you should be able to get close to inside 10 for SD/ED. Remember its a bearing surface, clean area, amount of coverage (length trim), wall thickness and hardening/working metal ect .. it all plays...

oh i will also say for a 7mag at 1Kyds.. you will kill everything you aim at with a  30 SD too.. they shoot pretty flat..... not gonna be that much off....

An sd of 30 would mean an Es of 60+ fps. That difference would be fairly large on target at distance. 

yes out far for sure but OP was hunting inside of 600yds..... should be tight enough for that with a 60 from a 7mag...

[birddogdad]

My pro chrono was junk! Accuracy or the pro chrono is +/- 2% if I remember right. It will get you close but not accurate enough to go by es or sd. 1% of 3000fps is 30fps. How can it give you even close to an accurate sd

Most folks don't need to buy a high end chronograph like a Magneto or Labradar because they only need to use it a couple time per year. Your best option is to track down somebody close to you who'll let you run a couple shots over their chrony.

Back when I shot primarily standard chamberings and not-so-wildcats I'd just shoot for accuracy and use a chrony to get a rough estimate on my velocity. From there all my data came from actual drops. When I got into more radical wildcatting I used a chronograph to help me gauge my pressures. At that time I used an Oehler 35p and I hated that thing with a passion! Newer chronys like the Magneto sporter are priced so that a couple of buddies could all pitch in and get one to share without breaking the bank.

  OP listen to anything york posts up here toward shooting topics!!!

[hunter399]

I guess I'll be the first one to ask, what's your current load that's giving you the high ES? Odds are that you just need to switch powder.

I've never had a problem getting single digit SDs and an ES of less than 15 using some of the cheapest components I can find. I have a pile of Lee dies, use an old Lyman 505 scale I picked up at a garage sale 10 years ago, anneal whenever I feel like getting around to it, never weight sort my brass, refuse to clean or uniform primer pockets, tumble my brass in the same corn cob/walnut mixed media I've used for the last 3 years, and I'd rather amputate my own arm with a dull hacksaw blade than trim cases.

Where I focus my attention is on picking the right powder for the load I'm trying to come up with. I'll take a 100% case fill over an extra 50 fps any day. With the exception of plinking ammo for handguns and the kids, I weigh every powder charge that I throw and then trickle in the last few granules until I'm happy.

When seating bullets I always seat the bullet half way then rotate the case 180 degrees in the shell holder then seat it the rest of the way. I'm also very consistent with seating pressure. Bottom out the press handle with the same slow and steady force every time.

Don't focus on equipment, focus on technique and using the right components. Using the right powder, right charge and the right primer will help your consistency more than any gadget or trinket somebody tries to sell you.

Theres no load yet, its just something I've noticed with my loads in the past.

I have the ProChrono as well - I do quite often get "duplicates", however most have come with factory ammo.

I may try picking up a different powder trickler as well. The one I have came with the kit, so if its like most of the other stuff theres probably better out there. I know it isn't going to make a difference, but it might be easier to trickle the charges up than it is now.

I will try rotating it 180 as you mentioned.

One thing that I've had trouble with is getting the bullet seated to the proper length every time. I'm forever adjusting the die itself to make sure its the right depth.

If all your brass is trimed to the same,your oal should be the same every time.you should not have to adjust the die for every cartridge.when starting on a load for the first time,i will by some factory rounds for the brass,shoot them and which ones shoot the best .I will stick one in the die screw it down ,and use a factory round for seating depth.Then start tweaking it after that shooting test loads to see what the rifles likes.
It's very important to find that sweet spot of seating depth that your rifle likes then stick with it between different bullets and powder charges.