Broad head practice

[wt]

How do you stay in good practice once you broadhead tune your bow?  The range I shoot only allows broadheads on select targets. Do you use target tips and just ignore hitting  a little off.  Or do you  use broad head targets from that point forward and sharpen your heads the day before season? What about practicing during season?

[smithkl42]

I'm still a newbie, but what I've been doing so far is to shoot field points until a month or so before season, then switch over to a set of four dull broadheads that I've set aside for the purpose. My sharp broadheads (of the same sort, naturally) I only shoot at game. Not that I've had much opportunity for that...

[RadSav]

Practice is practice.  So doesn't really matter if you are shooting field point or broadheads.  However, you should take time before the season to make sure your broadheads are shooting where your field points are.  And then verify your pin settings at range as a secondary verification.

Some bow/arrow combinations you just can not get to tune so the field points and broadheads shoot the same.  For instance, my wife shoots stiff for set-up arrows for hunting.  Gives her much more penetration on elk size game than those weak shafts made for 50# bows shooting targets.  So for her we can never get field points and broadheads exactly the same, but we can get the trajectory the same.  For her, we just make a simple gang adjustment to her sight a week or so before the season and don't concern ourselves with where the field points impact from then until end of season.

Honestly, we rarely shoot our bows in that last week before season.  And when we do, it's a couple cold shots just to prepare for making "That One Shot" count.  For that we shoot broadheads.

[RadSav]

We only shoot sharp broadheads into targets.  Dull broadheads can be a pain in the rear to remove damaging expensive targets.  Arrows are much easier to remove from targets when they are sharp.  A good broadhead can hammer a foam target a few dozen times before easy removal is no longer possible.  With the price of broadhead targets these days it's cheaper to buy new blades than new targets.

Some of the gimmick broadhead sharpeners out there will get old dull blades so they remove from targets well.  I don't recommend most of those for hunting sharpness, but they do make a good tool for getting them target sharp.  Might save you a few bucks in the long run.

[Sneaky]

I wouldn't just live with a setup that didn't have broadheads shooting with my field points. I would either tune so that BH hit with FP, or buy a different broadhead until I got FP accuracy. Over the years have had better luck with mechanicals or fixed blades with shorter ferrules (razor tricks were a favorite before they were discontinued). That way, you know your bow is on and you don't have to worry about practicing with broadheads.

I am shooting rage trypan's and they hit right with my field points out to 60yards and probably beyond (I verify to 60 as that is my limit). My hunting buddies all shoot rage and have taken several deer, elk, and even a bear. My bow is a bowtech Realm X - set up centershot and yoke tune until bullethole then off to the races...no worrying about moving the rest this way or that to get BH to hit with FP. People will argue about it but my experience has been pass throughs on everything and massive blood trails.

[wt]

Thanks for the inputs,  its good to get as many as possible. On another note, I'm going single pin this year, center the pin....