sighting in new rifle. . .

[Lcarey1985]

ok I got a new deer rifle (Savage 110 .270) and its already been bore sighted, so I need to zero it in! I am gonna zero at 100 yards. I know everyone has there own system to zero it in. . Just curious what your opinion on this subject is?

P.S. I hunt in northeast Washington. thick country up there with your occasional long shot opportunities. So I think 100 yard zero is good! I also a BDC scope!

[kckrawler]

First, you'll want to start at 25 yards or 50 yards. Bore Sighting has it's limitations.

Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 

[mdbuck5x5]

 

[jay.sharkbait]

First, you'll want to start at 25 yards or 50 yards. Bore Sighting has it's limitations.

Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 

That's why I usually just send one into a lake or a river or something.

That's why they call it splash!

[jackelope]

First, you'll want to start at 25 yards or 50 yards. Bore Sighting has it's limitations.

Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 

That's why I usually just send one into a lake or a river or something.

That's why they call it splash!

Awesome. 

If someone knows how to bore sight, they should put you on paper at 100 yards. Adjust from there. I've never started at 25 or 50. Like the OP said, everyone has a different method I guess.

[Lcarey1985]

First, you'll want to start at 25 yards or 50 yards. Bore Sighting has it's limitations.

Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 

That's why I usually just send one into a lake or a river or something.

That's why they call it splash!

Awesome. 

If someone knows how to bore sight, they should put you on paper at 100 yards. Adjust from there. I've never started at 25 or 50. Like the OP said, everyone has a different method I guess.

I agree! me personally I have never shot a deer at 200 yards. no offense to you but I'm doing a zero at 100 yards. so yes bore sight should put you on paper! I just watched a youtube video of a guy sighting in his rifle.
made one shot obviously aiming at the center of target. he hit 3 inches right and 3 inches low. So back on the rest he is aiming at the center target again and had a friend adjust the crosshairs to where the first shot hit, in the meantime not moving the gun at all.
then took a second shot and NO it wasn't perfect but repeated the steps and third shot he had his zero. so from what I found this is the simplest procedure to zero your gun!
so hope fully this makes sense.  I am going to try this and see how well it works!
 

[kckrawler]

First, you'll want to start at 25 yards or 50 yards. Bore Sighting has it's limitations.

Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 

That's why I usually just send one into a lake or a river or something.

That's why they call it splash!

Awesome. 

If someone knows how to bore sight, they should put you on paper at 100 yards. Adjust from there. I've never started at 25 or 50. Like the OP said, everyone has a different method I guess.

I agree! me personally I have never shot a deer at 200 yards. no offense to you but I'm doing a zero at 100 yards. so yes bore sight should put you on paper! I just watched a youtube video of a guy sighting in his rifle.
made one shot obviously aiming at the center of target. he hit 3 inches right and 3 inches low. So back on the rest he is aiming at the center target again and had a friend adjust the crosshairs to where the first shot hit, in the meantime not moving the gun at all.
then took a second shot and NO it wasn't perfect but repeated the steps and third shot he had his zero. so from what I found this is the simplest procedure to zero your gun!
so hope fully this makes sense.  I am going to try this and see how well it works!

  No offense taken. I kind of dig the buddy method you described, might give that a shot next time I need to sight in.

[JDHasty]

First, you'll want to start at 25 yards or 50 yards. Bore Sighting has it's limitations.

Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 

That's why I usually just send one into a lake or a river or something.

That's why they call it splash!

Awesome. 

If someone knows how to bore sight, they should put you on paper at 100 yards. Adjust from there. I've never started at 25 or 50. Like the OP said, everyone has a different method I guess.

I agree! me personally I have never shot a deer at 200 yards. no offense to you but I'm doing a zero at 100 yards. so yes bore sight should put you on paper! I just watched a youtube video of a guy sighting in his rifle.
made one shot obviously aiming at the center of target. he hit 3 inches right and 3 inches low. So back on the rest he is aiming at the center target again and had a friend adjust the crosshairs to where the first shot hit, in the meantime not moving the gun at all.
then took a second shot and NO it wasn't perfect but repeated the steps and third shot he had his zero. so from what I found this is the simplest procedure to zero your gun!
so hope fully this makes sense.  I am going to try this and see how well it works!

That is how we have done it for the last three or four decades.  It is the most efficient way to get it done. 

[Widgeondeke]

[/quote]

I agree! me personally I have never shot a deer at 200 yards. no offense to you but I'm doing a zero at 100 yards. so yes bore sight should put you on paper! I just watched a youtube video of a guy sighting in his rifle.
made one shot obviously aiming at the center of target. he hit 3 inches right and 3 inches low. So back on the rest he is aiming at the center target again and had a friend adjust the crosshairs to where the first shot hit, in the meantime not moving the gun at all.
then took a second shot and NO it wasn't perfect but repeated the steps and third shot he had his zero. so from what I found this is the simplest procedure to zero your gun!
so hope fully this makes sense.  I am going to try this and see how well it works!
[/quote]

     my preferred method, less the buddy

[PastorJoel]

Remember to take your time so as to not over heat the barrel.

Also, check out http://spoton.nikonsportoptics.com/spoton/spoton.html to learn where your shots will be relative to the recitals (assuming you have a Nikon Prostaff, which comes with the gun, or at least did come with those guns).

Also, use only one type of ammo so as to be most consistent.  I recommend that you buy 4-5 boxes so that you always have the same stuff available.

[browney5er]

I typically won't touch my scope until I've shot a three shot group.

[steeleywhopper]

I like to do your "buddy" method less the buddy, as I don't ever seem to have anyone with me when I sight in. If your gun is bore-sighted correctly it should only take you 3 to 4 rounds to get your gun and scope dialed in to where you want it.

[Calvin Rayborn]

Anyone do it this way? (This only applies to bolt actions) First off, I always mount my own scopes. Rest the rifle on some steady bags or a good sled. Remove the bolt. Eyeball through the rear of the bore all the way through at a 25 yd target, lining-up the concentric circles of the rear of the chamber and the muzzle opening with the bull (putting the bore in straight alignment with the target). THEN....without disturbing the gun, adjusting the scope turrets to bullseye as well. Gets you well on the paper every time. Can start fine tuning your shots from there. Boresighter tools...Don't need em! 😀

[brew]

I typically won't touch my scope until I've shot a three shot group.

my  is a 3 shot group when first sighting in is a waste of ammo IF you have a solid rest and you know your gear and ammo is good.  most firearms and ammo today are accurate enough to adjust your crosshairs after a shot if you felt you had a good hold on the target. once you are hitting about 1 1/2" or 2" high at 100 yards you can take a few timed shots and actually see where it groups.  with a 270 sighted in 2" high at 100 yards your bullet will not be more than 2" low at around 250 yards that that should be a pretty good "dead on" hold.  good luck

[cooltimber]

calvin, dead on

[pashok23]

My rifle is dead on at 300 yards. .300 wm

[csaaphill]

cool sounds like you have what you want and getting it done. I too site mine in at 100 yards as well.

[hunter67wa]

If you know for a fact your shot broke perfect you could do the buddy sight in system. But we typically don't get enough practice so shoot more unless you are on a limited budget. Don't handicap yourself. Sight it in for a maximum point blank range (MPBR) meaning with a 270 probably 2.5" high at 100 which will put you about 3' high at 150 and about 3" low at 275-300. You have to confirm those distances by shooting them. Then you can start working on your reticle with shooting it at other distances. Good luck!

[tgomez]

If it was properly bore sighted it should be close enough to hit on a paper plate at 100. I sight my rifle in at 100 yards dead on. Then I like to shoot a tight 5 shot group to confirm that I am getting good tight consistency out of my rifle. I shoot a Nikon with the BDC recticle so if I need to shoot farther shots I move up to the next circle every 100 yards of increase. So for me dead on at 100, next circle 200, next 300, 400, final circle is 500. Honestly most shots are in the 70-200 yard range. My farthest kill shot ever is 387 yards on a 5×4 whitetail. The closest is 11 yards. It's all a matter of personal preference really. With just regular set crosshairs and a 270, I would sight in my rifle 2" high at 100 yards and you can hold dead on to 300yards and not have to worry about the bullet drop. Best of luck and remember AIM SMALL, MISS SMALL.

[Lcarey1985]

going out tomorrow morning and see what happens! i'll post pictures when I am done! thanks for all your opinions and suggestions! means a lot!

[coachcw]

look at the break in for that manufacture. clean only breech to muzzle , id take three shot groups then adjust letting cool down between groups a half hour our so. once your set take it home and clean well . then go back out next day and shoot one foul shot. then shoot your group again . clean then foul shot once . hunt for the season then re clean  .I cooper clean every time I shoot my 6.5.

[curlewkiller]

My tikka .308 was three shots two inches high and done.  My old .270 now my son's gun I am a box of ammo and still not sighted.  I think the scope was a bit loose because we would get it on paper then shoot again and be off.  I tightened the scoop mounts as they were a bit loose.  Hope this helps me get it done at the gun club this weekend.  Make sure to check you scope before starting this process.  It would have saved me $30

[Lcarey1985]

Remember to take your time so as to not over heat the barrel.

Also, check out http://spoton.nikonsportoptics.com/spoton/spoton.html to learn where your shots will be relative to the recitals (assuming you have a Nikon Prostaff, which comes with the gun, or at least did come with those guns).

Also, use only one type of ammo so as to be most consistent.  I recommend that you buy 4-5 boxes so that you always have the same stuff available.

I bought the package but I took the scope off and put it on my 22-250. and bought a nicer SPOTON BDC scope for my .270. so I did check that out and that's about the coolest thing ive seen. makes it easier if you know what your yardage is on each dot. .  thanks for that! Appreciate it!

[copasj]

With a scope sighted rifle, a 25 yard zero will get you pretty darn close to a 200 yard zero with most rifle/caliber/scope combinations.  Most of the time I'll dial in at 25 and then confirm/fine tune at 200. 

There is no real reason to zero a modern cartridge like a .270 at 100yds IMO.  They are so fast that you can't rise out of the vitals with a 200 yard zero, or even more.  My wifes 7mm-08 is zeroed at 30/210 yards and the bullet is +/- 2.5" out to 250 yards. My 7x57 is zeroed at 25/210 yards and it is +/- 3" to 250 yards. Either are well inside the kill zone of deer. 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[12Gauge]

With a scope sighted rifle, a 25 yard zero will get you pretty darn close to a 200 yard zero with most rifle/caliber/scope combinations.  Most of the time I'll dial in at 25 and then confirm/fine tune at 200. 

There is no real reason to zero a modern cartridge like a .270 at 100yds IMO.  They are so fast that you can't rise out of the vitals with a 200 yard zero, or even more.  My wifes 7mm-08 is zeroed at 30/210 yards and the bullet is +/- 2.5" out to 250 yards. My 7x57 is zeroed at 25/210 yards and it is +/- 3" to 250 yards. Either are well inside the kill zone of deer. 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Great info here guys.  I use the 25/200 to sight in.

[goldenhtr]

With a scope sighted rifle, a 25 yard zero will get you pretty darn close to a 200 yard zero with most rifle/caliber/scope combinations.  Most of the time I'll dial in at 25 and then confirm/fine tune at 200. 

There is no real reason to zero a modern cartridge like a .270 at 100yds IMO.  They are so fast that you can't rise out of the vitals with a 200 yard zero, or even more.  My wifes 7mm-08 is zeroed at 30/210 yards and the bullet is +/- 2.5" out to 250 yards. My 7x57 is zeroed at 25/210 yards and it is +/- 3" to 250 yards. Either are well inside the kill zone of deer. 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Great info here guys.  I use the 25/200 to sight in.

 
30-06/ 180gr BT

[luteai]

I do like Calvin said; only I bore site at 50 feet in my back yard. I just put a 2 inch dot on a tree, center through barrel then adjust scope to the center of the dot.  Read years ago a 50 foot center is dead on at 100 yards.  It's dang near perfect for an '06 and 7mm-08.  The 50 foot site in is a good check if you drop your rifle in the field, if you're still on at 50 feet your good to go.

[KFhunter]

 

works pretty good if you have a sled or some way to make sure nothing moves but your eyeball

[Stein]

I don't trust myself to not put a 3 shot group on paper and then adjust the dials to bring it center.  All our rifles are 200 yard "zeros" but some have the stickers with yardages on the turret so they technically don't have a true "zero".  As long as you remember what it is zeroed at, it doesn't matter - I learned the hard way to not zero for 100 for some hunts and 200 for others or you will forget where it is at.  Pick one and always stick with that, memorize the clicks up and down for 100 - 300 and you are good for 99.999% of the shots.

[Lcarey1985]

200 yards. . not bad but I think I can do better. going to head again this weekend and try it again.

[Bob33]

That group looks plenty good enough for big game. Move it left an inch and go hunting.

[Okanagan]

Anyone do it this way? (This only applies to bolt actions) First off, I always mount my own scopes. Rest the rifle on some steady bags or a good sled. Remove the bolt. Eyeball through the rear of the bore all the way through at a 25 yd target, lining-up the concentric circles of the rear of the chamber and the muzzle opening with the bull (putting the bore in straight alignment with the target). THEN....without disturbing the gun, adjusting the scope turrets to bullseye as well. Gets you well on the paper every time. Can start fine tuning your shots from there. Boresighter tools...Don't need em! 😀

Works for me solo and has for years.  Here is one suggestion to refine this method:  eyeball through the concentric circles of bore etc. at a target AS FAR AWAY AS POSSIBLE.  In the Tri-Cities I used a top insulator on a power line tower three miles away.   The farther away the object is that you center in the bore the longer the radius of the line of sight and the smaller the angle of divergence.  I now use the corner of a chimney about 150 yards away as the handiest long distance and am usually within an inch or closer my first shot at 100 yards. 

Re 100 yard zero:  The OP is set on a 100 yard zero, and that will kill game fine.  I've killed far more big game at under 50 yards than over, but take 300 yard shots without a thought nor hesitation.  A 100 yard zero is handicapping a 300 plus yard tool, and making use of it beyond about 180 yards more complicated with clicks, extra reticle bars and thinking.   That's OK.  It would be good if somehow (most) new hunters were limited to 100 yard shots!)

[buckfvr]

Since you said it is a BDC scope.......follow their directions for zero.  I believe the BDC marks will get you 500 yards with a 100 zero.  Most important thing is to as closely as possible, match the sample ballistics for caliber that the mfg. uses in its directions.

I recently did this for my sons new rifle with a BDC scope and it matches very closely out to 400 yards that I tested.  He will kill using his BDC marks out to 400, if we can test 5, maybe that is good enough also, but this type results with a BDC scope can only be obtained by using an ammo that closely matches the sample velocity and weights they give you in their directions.

I also use a Magneto Sport to get true velocities, not published ones.  Good luck..........

[andrew_in_idaho]

Since he's shooting a bdc reticle a 100 yd zero is perfect. After zeroing at 100 yards shoot a shot for each of your holdover marks aiming at bull. Where each shot hits using holdover marks will give you the amount of moa that each mark is holding over for you. For example at 100 yds using my Tasco world class on my .25-06 with holdover marks my shots are roughly 1.5", 3.5", 6" and 9" high at 100 yards. Then I punch my load into a ballistics calculator to determine that in actuality instead of my holdover marks being at 200,300,400 and 500 they are actually 215,315,420, and 530 yards. With the vortex on my .300 win mag with a vortex I did the same calculations to determine that my holdover are actually at 215, 365, 490 and the top of the reticle post is 615(11 moa). Not all bdc scopes are created equal and not all loads match what the bdc manuals say the holdover marks should be


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Okanagan]

Since he's shooting a bdc reticle a 100 yd zero is perfect. After zeroing at 100 yards shoot a shot for each of your holdover marks aiming at bull. Where each shot hits using holdover marks will give you the amount of moa that each mark is holding over for you. For example at 100 yds using my Tasco world class on my .25-06 with holdover marks my shots are roughly 1.5", 3.5", 6" and 9" high at 100 yards. Then I punch my load into a ballistics calculator to determine that in actuality instead of my holdover marks being at 200,300,400 and 500 they are actually 215,315,420, and 530 yards. With the vortex on my .300 win mag with a vortex I did the same calculations to determine that my holdover are actually at 215, 365, 490 and the top of the reticle post is 615(11 moa). Not all bdc scopes are created equal and not all loads match what the bdc manuals say the holdover marks should be


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's a lot of remembering and thinking and ranging for a newbie   A LOT of remembering and thinking if he's looking at big horns for the first time while doing the thinking and remembering.

Especially when he can sight it in a smidge over 2 inches high at 100, forget about the scope and just shoot things.   Just put the crosshairs in the middle of the chest and kill deer and larger game out close to 300 yards.   Sounds like he is going to do that conservatively, with a 100 yard zero and nailing closer, surer shots.  That ain't a bad plan. 

[buckfvr]

Since he's shooting a bdc reticle a 100 yd zero is perfect. After zeroing at 100 yards shoot a shot for each of your holdover marks aiming at bull. Where each shot hits using holdover marks will give you the amount of moa that each mark is holding over for you. For example at 100 yds using my Tasco world class on my .25-06 with holdover marks my shots are roughly 1.5", 3.5", 6" and 9" high at 100 yards. Then I punch my load into a ballistics calculator to determine that in actuality instead of my holdover marks being at 200,300,400 and 500 they are actually 215,315,420, and 530 yards. With the vortex on my .300 win mag with a vortex I did the same calculations to determine that my holdover are actually at 215, 365, 490 and the top of the reticle post is 615(11 moa). Not all bdc scopes are created equal and not all loads match what the bdc manuals say the holdover marks should be





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you want to go there, then my opinion of BDC scopes is very low.  I dont like being only close or compensating to place odd values on marks.  May as well turn turrets which is what I do because bdc doesnt satisfy me in terms of absolute accuracy or precision.   BDC works good enough for my son and he is happy with it, but I wont have one........not with todays technology and whats available to us all.  I agree, simple is better in most cases.......

[JDHasty]

There is absolutely nothing preventing a person from dialing yardage on a scope that has BDC hash marks included in the reticle.  If that kind of precision is needed, it is right there available. 

Hash marks are more than sufficient in most big game hunting instances and they are fast to use. 

[davk]

Never had any problems being on paper at 100 by just pulling the bolt.  I usually shoot at the ... not sure 1.5ftx2ft? size targets.  Ill usually only shoot single shots to bring it to center, then shoot groups to make fine adjustments.  100 yard zero is fine.

[JDHasty]

I stop at Sears Outlet and pick up a side of a washing machine box when I have replaced a scope on a rifle.  Staple it to a target frame with a target in the center of it, Take one shot and then hold the rifle in place and dial the crosshairs over to the bullet hole and from there it is just a matter of fine adjusting it by an inch one way or the other.

I have a Site Light Green laser bore slighter, and it usually gets me within five inches of dead center anyway, but the big piece of cardboard is there for insurance.

[Skyvalhunter]

Do you always hit the piece of cardboard?

[Don Fischer]

With a new rifle or scope, my first shot is at 25yds. Beats bore sighting! Shoot the first shot off a steady bench and note where the bullet strike's. Have someone help if needed but before firing the second shot, re-aim at the bullseye at 25yds and holding it there, move the cross wire's to the bullet hole. Second shot just to be sure you moved it properly. Third shot at 100yds. move the cross wire's to put the bullet dead on. Once on, I use the max point blank range of zeroing. Just did my 6.5x55 with a 129gr bullet and an 8" target. 8" target means you'll get ranges where the bullet will never rise above 4" over or 4" below the target. What I got is max PBRange = 323 yds
                             Zero       =276yds
                             height at 100yds = +3.2"
                                            200yds = +3.4"
                                            300yds = -1.7"

Doing it this way allow's you to hold dead on the target to well over 300yds, 323yds. utilize's all the trajectory you rifle and load has to offer. years ago the suggestion was always to zero in 3 1/2" high at 100yds, probably works well. If you zero at 100yds and for what ever reason have a shot at say 200yds, hold dead on and you'll probably shoot under the aiming point, miss or maybe wound the animal. But by zeroing to MPBR if the animal is 50yds, your bullet will strike +1.4" above point of aim.

Imagine the target size is the diameter of a pipe your looking through. I the above, I gave the trajectory of the load with it never hitting the top of the pipe or falling below the pipe when the POI is dead center in the pipe. Depending on which rifle I'm shooting I can adjust the size of the target to suit myself.

[grade-creek-rd]

The guys at ESPN's The Outdoor Line are going to talk about this very subject this Saturday! Listen in around the 7 o'clock hour to hear what they have to say as they talk about sighting in your rifle for Maximum Point Blank Range (the ol' 2 inches high at a hundred yards and why hunters do this) as well as shooting at angles, sighting in vs target practice and even give a mule deer report...they are on 710AM on the radio dial.

Grade

[Lcarey1985]

this has been very helpful, so thank all of you that have placed your opinion! I am going out again this weekend. to really dial it in. I am sticking with my 100 yard zero. with my BDC I can use my other sights for further shots that's what there designed to do. Right?! I'll post more pictures after the weekend and show you all where I'm at with it! Thanks again!