Free: Contests & Raffles.
Quote from: dreadi on March 01, 2022, 01:40:59 PMQuote from: James on March 01, 2022, 01:19:47 PMQuote from: dreadi on March 01, 2022, 12:38:53 PMCleaning is as big of a deal as you want it to be. Fully welded silencers are my preference because I don't want to take apart baffles to clean. If you're really in to getting everything clean as if it came straight the box from the factory, you're not going to be be able to do that with fully welded cans. You'd be better off looking at silencers that have removable baffles/cups/mono core baffle. Every company for every suppressor has instructions for cleaning. Some of them, just soak in CLP and then shoot it. Others can take a more detailed approach with multiple methods.Silencers are made from the same materials that your firearms are made from. Steel, titanium, aluminum, stelllite, are all used to make them and I'm sure there more substrates that I don't have memorized. They are designed to do their job and not die on impact from a normal drop. They aren't impervious to abuse or misuse and most companies have strong warranties in place. I've exercised a warranty repair before and it only cost me shipping one way. Now if you go tumbling down a mountain with it on the end of your rifle doing cartwheels, who knows?Thank youNo doubt, I am not looking for them to be surviving abuse, or at least anything more than rifles typically do. But hunting hard in the rainforest is bordering on abuse (I am sure many would consider it fully abusive!). I am guessing the suppressor walls are not as thick as a rifle barrel, so it’s good to hear if it gets wacked against a tree for example the suppressor won’t dent. After a day of hunting elk and taking apart my gun it’s amazing the places I find mud, water, pine needles, etc. Even stainless rifles with good maintenance and access struggle with corrosion issues, So if the suppressor is not able to be disassembled how do you get these things out? Shoot them out? That sounds sketchy…Keep in mind as I ask these questions I am a total suppressor newbie, so I am sure many have figured out how to deal with this stuff.You're correct. There usually is not as much material between the bore and outer diameter on a silencer as there is a on a rifle barrel. They would get heavy quickly if they did.I hear you on the cleaning aspect. I get a few firearms a year after hunting seasons that need to be refinished and you're correct about all of that. However, here's some videos about cleaning.Yes, upon initial thought, it does seem like shooting a suppressor with stuff inside would be sketchy but, many suppressors are designed to be shot wet. That means, you can immerse the device in water and still shoot it while it's mostly full of water, above the surface of the water. Therefore, a few pine needles aren't an issue. With as many members as we have here, if someone were to have an issue/malfunction/catastrophic failure of their suppressor related to your concerns while out hunting, we would have heard about it. You could probably get a box of magnum condoms and pull one over the bore if you're really concerned about it.Some silencer are wipe compatible. A wipe is normally a piece of neoprene at the front of the suppressor and is a solid piece until it's shot through. Wipes help bring the sound level down a bit more and could serve as a block for falling debris.I don't mind all the questions. I'm here to help/sell Thank you!Watching the first video where he was talking about carbon buildup and carbon burn off gave me flashbacks to heat transfer and designing heat exchangers with regards to fouling factor!!!
Quote from: James on March 01, 2022, 01:19:47 PMQuote from: dreadi on March 01, 2022, 12:38:53 PMCleaning is as big of a deal as you want it to be. Fully welded silencers are my preference because I don't want to take apart baffles to clean. If you're really in to getting everything clean as if it came straight the box from the factory, you're not going to be be able to do that with fully welded cans. You'd be better off looking at silencers that have removable baffles/cups/mono core baffle. Every company for every suppressor has instructions for cleaning. Some of them, just soak in CLP and then shoot it. Others can take a more detailed approach with multiple methods.Silencers are made from the same materials that your firearms are made from. Steel, titanium, aluminum, stelllite, are all used to make them and I'm sure there more substrates that I don't have memorized. They are designed to do their job and not die on impact from a normal drop. They aren't impervious to abuse or misuse and most companies have strong warranties in place. I've exercised a warranty repair before and it only cost me shipping one way. Now if you go tumbling down a mountain with it on the end of your rifle doing cartwheels, who knows?Thank youNo doubt, I am not looking for them to be surviving abuse, or at least anything more than rifles typically do. But hunting hard in the rainforest is bordering on abuse (I am sure many would consider it fully abusive!). I am guessing the suppressor walls are not as thick as a rifle barrel, so it’s good to hear if it gets wacked against a tree for example the suppressor won’t dent. After a day of hunting elk and taking apart my gun it’s amazing the places I find mud, water, pine needles, etc. Even stainless rifles with good maintenance and access struggle with corrosion issues, So if the suppressor is not able to be disassembled how do you get these things out? Shoot them out? That sounds sketchy…Keep in mind as I ask these questions I am a total suppressor newbie, so I am sure many have figured out how to deal with this stuff.You're correct. There usually is not as much material between the bore and outer diameter on a silencer as there is a on a rifle barrel. They would get heavy quickly if they did.I hear you on the cleaning aspect. I get a few firearms a year after hunting seasons that need to be refinished and you're correct about all of that. However, here's some videos about cleaning.Yes, upon initial thought, it does seem like shooting a suppressor with stuff inside would be sketchy but, many suppressors are designed to be shot wet. That means, you can immerse the device in water and still shoot it while it's mostly full of water, above the surface of the water. Therefore, a few pine needles aren't an issue. With as many members as we have here, if someone were to have an issue/malfunction/catastrophic failure of their suppressor related to your concerns while out hunting, we would have heard about it. You could probably get a box of magnum condoms and pull one over the bore if you're really concerned about it.Some silencer are wipe compatible. A wipe is normally a piece of neoprene at the front of the suppressor and is a solid piece until it's shot through. Wipes help bring the sound level down a bit more and could serve as a block for falling debris.I don't mind all the questions. I'm here to help/sell
Quote from: dreadi on March 01, 2022, 12:38:53 PMCleaning is as big of a deal as you want it to be. Fully welded silencers are my preference because I don't want to take apart baffles to clean. If you're really in to getting everything clean as if it came straight the box from the factory, you're not going to be be able to do that with fully welded cans. You'd be better off looking at silencers that have removable baffles/cups/mono core baffle. Every company for every suppressor has instructions for cleaning. Some of them, just soak in CLP and then shoot it. Others can take a more detailed approach with multiple methods.Silencers are made from the same materials that your firearms are made from. Steel, titanium, aluminum, stelllite, are all used to make them and I'm sure there more substrates that I don't have memorized. They are designed to do their job and not die on impact from a normal drop. They aren't impervious to abuse or misuse and most companies have strong warranties in place. I've exercised a warranty repair before and it only cost me shipping one way. Now if you go tumbling down a mountain with it on the end of your rifle doing cartwheels, who knows?Thank youNo doubt, I am not looking for them to be surviving abuse, or at least anything more than rifles typically do. But hunting hard in the rainforest is bordering on abuse (I am sure many would consider it fully abusive!). I am guessing the suppressor walls are not as thick as a rifle barrel, so it’s good to hear if it gets wacked against a tree for example the suppressor won’t dent. After a day of hunting elk and taking apart my gun it’s amazing the places I find mud, water, pine needles, etc. Even stainless rifles with good maintenance and access struggle with corrosion issues, So if the suppressor is not able to be disassembled how do you get these things out? Shoot them out? That sounds sketchy…Keep in mind as I ask these questions I am a total suppressor newbie, so I am sure many have figured out how to deal with this stuff.
Cleaning is as big of a deal as you want it to be. Fully welded silencers are my preference because I don't want to take apart baffles to clean. If you're really in to getting everything clean as if it came straight the box from the factory, you're not going to be be able to do that with fully welded cans. You'd be better off looking at silencers that have removable baffles/cups/mono core baffle. Every company for every suppressor has instructions for cleaning. Some of them, just soak in CLP and then shoot it. Others can take a more detailed approach with multiple methods.Silencers are made from the same materials that your firearms are made from. Steel, titanium, aluminum, stelllite, are all used to make them and I'm sure there more substrates that I don't have memorized. They are designed to do their job and not die on impact from a normal drop. They aren't impervious to abuse or misuse and most companies have strong warranties in place. I've exercised a warranty repair before and it only cost me shipping one way. Now if you go tumbling down a mountain with it on the end of your rifle doing cartwheels, who knows?
While I was putting things away after shooting today, I thought of your posts and decided to get some images together using my phone. This Dead Air Nomad Ti has seen over 100 rounds of 6.8 SPC, about two boxes of 300 WM, and almost one box of .308Here’s how it looks inside. From the front behind the front cap:From the rear:The rear of the front cap:BLACK HAMMER ARMSType 07 Class 2 NFA Dealerhttp://www.blackhammerarms.comhttps://www.Silencershop.com/blackhammerarmshttp://www.facebook.com/blackhammerarmshttps://www.instagram.com/blackhammerarmsGLOCK Certified Armourer
Talking with the guy who owns big J's in Orting it sounds like suppressors are coming down a bit in price, he has an older one that is self cleaning and he loves it, I forget the name brand. But he was saying its about 700 bucks, Dreadi, do you have or know models that are self cleaning in that price range? Also, I have a .300 win mag browning Abolt, is my barrel too thin for a suppressor?
Another question, does a suppressor help or hurt w recoil? You have to take off a Muzzy brake for a suppressor, are you giving up the softer kick for noise?
FYI for those with paper form 4’s pending. I just got 2 released from prison yesterday. One the check cashed 05/04/21 the other cashed 12/05/21. This shows that we never know when we will get the call on the paper forms. Hopefully the efile will be all the has been promised. 90 days on the one is a personal best for me.
I just purchased a 300 PRC and interested in one....appears i need to apply for a trust ?
